Sorry I haven't gotten back on this, I was in Michigan at Gingerman Raceway, I just got home.

I will go out and check my wires again after I get some sleep (it was a 7 hour drive home).

I don't wanna sound stupid here, but a few things I'm not clear on:
What's the smart buffer?
And the Xede power is the red wire correct?

Thanks!

 

it's the knock buffer and i believe it stabilizes the knock signal for the smart features. and yes, the red wire, power, for the knock buffer splices into the red wire on the xede harness... pin 7 on the grey connector (12v in).
you can find the pin out diagram for the xede harness plugs under help in the main xmap program screen (it has alot more wires in the diagram than the evo xede harness uses, but the power, knock in and all that stuff is the same)

 

Cool that's good to know. I haven't had a chance to check it out yet, but it sounds like that is probably my issue sine I have the red from the sb going to the purple wire. I never checked the help in the xmap program, the pinouts is awesome that helps a lot!

 

Ok. Here's the update. The only difference I could find in my install was the red wire from the kb was hooked to the pink on the xede. I moved it to the red wire on the xede (pin 7 on grey connector).

Everything else is wired the same. I had 2 other people verify the wires following the Vishnu directions and the tips you guys have suggested.

So that leads me to believe that my LC-1 is dead.

 

do you have a LED hooked up to the LC-1? If so, the LED should flash until the unit is warmed up, then go solid state. If not, it gives an error code.

 

You could have the same problem I am -- the brown wire on the wideband was not producing any voltage. I contacted Innovate Motorsports and they are going to replace mine.

 

The LED doesn't turn on at all.

I'll have to check voltages on that brown wire and see what it shows.

Thanks guys.

 

Check the knock buffer signal, wiring it backwards may have fried it.

 

What am I checking for? What should I see?

 

How did you wire the knock buffer? I'm curious, the only wires you need to use on that are red, black and yellow. Yellow is in the Xede at pin 9 (if i remember correctly), red is power, and black is ground. Blue and white aren't even used.

Even then I don't think that would be causing your problem. Take a volt meter and check what power is coming to the wideband.

 

The knock buffer is wired correctly. The white and blue wires are for the o2 sim. My knock buffer install:
Red on kb --> red on xede
black on kb --> xede ground
yellow on kb --> pin 9 on grey xede connector

Yea, I don't really think the knock buffer is the issue, it's the wideband that is not doing anything. The power from the cig lighter is working, (well the cig lighter works anyway), but nothing comes out the wideband. The LED doesn't turn on, (which I had to get from radio shack). When I hook the laptop up to the serial port on the wideband I get no readings, the an1 in live data display shows a static ~13-14%, it never moves.

I'll have to get a meter from work tomorrow and see what is going to the wideband for sure. I'll also check all the wires and see what's up.

This has been a pretty frustrating experience, for such a simple thing it's turned into a nightmare. I've never had this much trouble with anything before.

 

I know exactly how you feel. My buddy and I were up very late trying to figure out our problem. Which I believe will be fixed once I receive my new controller for the wideband.

I'll let you know how my install goes. Keep us posted on what you find.

 

Will do. I hope it works out for you.

 

Figured I'd give an update. A few weeks ago I rechecked the timing on the cams after working with Dustin and put them back to -3 (using the actual marks on the gears), uploaded the 91oct SMART map again and everything but the LC-1 started magically working they way it should. It's been fine ever since...

The car runs great, feels very strong. A new LC-1 gets delivered tomorrow so I'll get that installed Saturday and this little saga should be complete.

Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks to you guys for helping me out

 

Glad to hear your problems were resolved! I completely forgot to update this post -- the new wideband controller fixed my issue as well. The car runs excellent now! It feels, soon as boost hits, that the entire power band is useful. None of that jerky, falling on your face when it was stock.