How do I get home with no tune and stroker motor?
How do I get home with no tune and stroker motor?
Since my mis-fortune, (spun rod-bearing) I am getting the AMS stroker small block. BEFORE I get it tuned, I need to drive it to "break it in". Can I get a shelf map for the larger injectors 780cc's? and the larger volume of air attributed to the stroker motor? I assume when I drive it the first 600-1K break in miles, I should have the methanol injection turned OFF correct?
Anyway, my dilema is.... once the motor is in, how do I get the maps to get the car to run so I can break it in?? All my mods will stay the same, EXCEPT the stroker short-block and the 780cc injectors. (unless you reccomend different size injectors). I plan on going larger turbo later, so you can keep that in mind when it comes to the injector size.
Thanks in advance for your help!!
Anyway, my dilema is.... once the motor is in, how do I get the maps to get the car to run so I can break it in?? All my mods will stay the same, EXCEPT the stroker short-block and the 780cc injectors. (unless you reccomend different size injectors). I plan on going larger turbo later, so you can keep that in mind when it comes to the injector size.
Thanks in advance for your help!!
Originally Posted by Blitzbaster02
Take it to someone who knows how to tune it?? Get a very base tune to allow you to just cruise around. Shouldnt be too much money.
Originally Posted by EvoRecordSetter
just get a partial throttle tune, and dont drive it past that until you get it tuned otherwise.
My unexperienced suggestions would be out of the box:
1.) Turn your boost down. Boost causes loading (mechanical and thermal) to occur at a very rapid rate.
2.) Get some good fuel. You probably already have this in there.
3.) Have a plan to break it in.
a.) Allow some warmup time between stops to really allow the motor to come to a thermal stability point at idle. The idea here is to season the motor.
b.) My personal favorite is run the motor on some really good dino oil, and change it often for the first 500 or so miles. In fact after the first 20 miles and first to second heat cycle I'm already yanking out the oil. The next change is usually at 150 to 200 miles and finally another one at 500 miles or so.
c.) Don't race it, don't baby it. This means drive it fairly normally. There is a reason there is a cross-hatch pattern ground into your cylinder walls on a build. Its that the rings provide the final friction cut to seal the system. In order for rings to cut IMHO you need to get the cylinder pressure built up to a cutting pressure to do the job, both in rpm and loading. This means you don't want to blast 20+psi of boostage in there on a sudden WoT, but rather that you allow the motor to spin up under a mild load and be very smooth on getting on and off the throttle. Personally I wouldn't be afraid to rev the motor up to close to redline ... just don't push it to hard to redline.
Not babying it means don't force the motor into high load at low rpms consistently. Roll into that throttle and let the system breathe! Babying sometimes puts the car into a state where you build lots of cylinder pressure (and temp) at low rpms, but there isn't much mechanical motion going on. Cylinder temps increase a lot, and the motor struggles to breathe.
One really interesting experience I had once on my Suzuki Twin is as it has a pretty accurate water temp. guage, I took it up a local crusing canyon at the speed limit. If I'd leave it at low rpms, and use that higher gear to pull me up the mountain I'd see the water temp. go up a significant 15degC, yet if I'd shift down and let the rpms come more into a sweet spot, the temperature would stay virtually the same. The motor just worked better as a system at that slightly higher rpm.
It sounds like you're already on the right path, go have some fun!
~j.
1.) Turn your boost down. Boost causes loading (mechanical and thermal) to occur at a very rapid rate.
2.) Get some good fuel. You probably already have this in there.
3.) Have a plan to break it in.
a.) Allow some warmup time between stops to really allow the motor to come to a thermal stability point at idle. The idea here is to season the motor.
b.) My personal favorite is run the motor on some really good dino oil, and change it often for the first 500 or so miles. In fact after the first 20 miles and first to second heat cycle I'm already yanking out the oil. The next change is usually at 150 to 200 miles and finally another one at 500 miles or so.
c.) Don't race it, don't baby it. This means drive it fairly normally. There is a reason there is a cross-hatch pattern ground into your cylinder walls on a build. Its that the rings provide the final friction cut to seal the system. In order for rings to cut IMHO you need to get the cylinder pressure built up to a cutting pressure to do the job, both in rpm and loading. This means you don't want to blast 20+psi of boostage in there on a sudden WoT, but rather that you allow the motor to spin up under a mild load and be very smooth on getting on and off the throttle. Personally I wouldn't be afraid to rev the motor up to close to redline ... just don't push it to hard to redline.
Not babying it means don't force the motor into high load at low rpms consistently. Roll into that throttle and let the system breathe! Babying sometimes puts the car into a state where you build lots of cylinder pressure (and temp) at low rpms, but there isn't much mechanical motion going on. Cylinder temps increase a lot, and the motor struggles to breathe.
One really interesting experience I had once on my Suzuki Twin is as it has a pretty accurate water temp. guage, I took it up a local crusing canyon at the speed limit. If I'd leave it at low rpms, and use that higher gear to pull me up the mountain I'd see the water temp. go up a significant 15degC, yet if I'd shift down and let the rpms come more into a sweet spot, the temperature would stay virtually the same. The motor just worked better as a system at that slightly higher rpm.
It sounds like you're already on the right path, go have some fun!
~j.
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Originally Posted by jcnel_evo8
My unexperienced suggestions would be out of the box:
1.) Turn your boost down. Boost causes loading (mechanical and thermal) to occur at a very rapid rate.
2.) Get some good fuel. You probably already have this in there.
3.) Have a plan to break it in.
a.) Allow some warmup time between stops to really allow the motor to come to a thermal stability point at idle. The idea here is to season the motor.
b.) My personal favorite is run the motor on some really good dino oil, and change it often for the first 500 or so miles. In fact after the first 20 miles and first to second heat cycle I'm already yanking out the oil. The next change is usually at 150 to 200 miles and finally another one at 500 miles or so.
c.) Don't race it, don't baby it. This means drive it fairly normally. There is a reason there is a cross-hatch pattern ground into your cylinder walls on a build. Its that the rings provide the final friction cut to seal the system. In order for rings to cut IMHO you need to get the cylinder pressure built up to a cutting pressure to do the job, both in rpm and loading. This means you don't want to blast 20+psi of boostage in there on a sudden WoT, but rather that you allow the motor to spin up under a mild load and be very smooth on getting on and off the throttle. Personally I wouldn't be afraid to rev the motor up to close to redline ... just don't push it to hard to redline.
Not babying it means don't force the motor into high load at low rpms consistently. Roll into that throttle and let the system breathe! Babying sometimes puts the car into a state where you build lots of cylinder pressure (and temp) at low rpms, but there isn't much mechanical motion going on. Cylinder temps increase a lot, and the motor struggles to breathe.
One really interesting experience I had once on my Suzuki Twin is as it has a pretty accurate water temp. guage, I took it up a local crusing canyon at the speed limit. If I'd leave it at low rpms, and use that higher gear to pull me up the mountain I'd see the water temp. go up a significant 15degC, yet if I'd shift down and let the rpms come more into a sweet spot, the temperature would stay virtually the same. The motor just worked better as a system at that slightly higher rpm.
It sounds like you're already on the right path, go have some fun!
~j.
1.) Turn your boost down. Boost causes loading (mechanical and thermal) to occur at a very rapid rate.
2.) Get some good fuel. You probably already have this in there.
3.) Have a plan to break it in.
a.) Allow some warmup time between stops to really allow the motor to come to a thermal stability point at idle. The idea here is to season the motor.
b.) My personal favorite is run the motor on some really good dino oil, and change it often for the first 500 or so miles. In fact after the first 20 miles and first to second heat cycle I'm already yanking out the oil. The next change is usually at 150 to 200 miles and finally another one at 500 miles or so.
c.) Don't race it, don't baby it. This means drive it fairly normally. There is a reason there is a cross-hatch pattern ground into your cylinder walls on a build. Its that the rings provide the final friction cut to seal the system. In order for rings to cut IMHO you need to get the cylinder pressure built up to a cutting pressure to do the job, both in rpm and loading. This means you don't want to blast 20+psi of boostage in there on a sudden WoT, but rather that you allow the motor to spin up under a mild load and be very smooth on getting on and off the throttle. Personally I wouldn't be afraid to rev the motor up to close to redline ... just don't push it to hard to redline.
Not babying it means don't force the motor into high load at low rpms consistently. Roll into that throttle and let the system breathe! Babying sometimes puts the car into a state where you build lots of cylinder pressure (and temp) at low rpms, but there isn't much mechanical motion going on. Cylinder temps increase a lot, and the motor struggles to breathe.
One really interesting experience I had once on my Suzuki Twin is as it has a pretty accurate water temp. guage, I took it up a local crusing canyon at the speed limit. If I'd leave it at low rpms, and use that higher gear to pull me up the mountain I'd see the water temp. go up a significant 15degC, yet if I'd shift down and let the rpms come more into a sweet spot, the temperature would stay virtually the same. The motor just worked better as a system at that slightly higher rpm.
It sounds like you're already on the right path, go have some fun!
~j.
Originally Posted by EvilBlueEvo8
have your xedeflash for the bigger injectors done before you have the motor put in.
Originally Posted by sscollision
that's what i'll be dealing with here in the next few week's.stroker,gt30 no tune?
the xedeflash takes care of the boost cut/fuel cut, injector scaling, and i also believe it gets rid of or moves the rev limiter. since you already have the xedeflash, you might as well send it back to shiv to be scaled for the injectors before you attempt to run the car. you will still need a tune because you most likely will need the fuel maps redone to accomadate the change in volume. best bet is to call shiv or dustin.
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 74
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From: Cincinnati
I have never stroked a motor (no pun intended) but all cars that I have bought new I have always been told from the dealer that there is not a "break in" period. Also what my experience tells me is that if you beat on it in the begining it will be used to it and love it for life. Of course this is dealing with new cars and not used blocks adding new crank/pistons/rods. So..... +1 to asking AMS!! I would love to know what they say when you ask them (I will be stroking my motor soon as well)