I got tuned*Updated w/Graph...
I dynoed right after EvoTio on that day in July 2005 and I put down 306/306 on 91 and 340/330 on 100. It was at least 90 degrees. This is on stock cams. The thing that may have helped me is that Shiv said my car was unusually quiet. Alfred noticed that whereas most Evos are pulling 4 degrees of timing up top, I am pulling only 1.6 at most.
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Originally Posted by jrsimon27
alan678 did you asked alfred as to why shivs off the shelfmaps are lean??
Last edited by alan678; Aug 12, 2006 at 02:18 PM.
Guys,
If the dyno chart that you posted is CORRECTED, then the high temps are eliminated as variables. If you look at the charts posted by snoop then you will see an STD correction factor of 1.03.
That means that his real hp on that day at that time is 290 whp and 297 tq on the first sheet he posted.
Please stop saying that heat was a factor and then post CORRECTED dyno sheets. This is flat out not true. If you want to say that heat was a factor, then post UNCORRECTED dyno sheets. You CANNOT have it both ways.
If the dyno chart that you posted is CORRECTED, then the high temps are eliminated as variables. If you look at the charts posted by snoop then you will see an STD correction factor of 1.03.
That means that his real hp on that day at that time is 290 whp and 297 tq on the first sheet he posted.
Please stop saying that heat was a factor and then post CORRECTED dyno sheets. This is flat out not true. If you want to say that heat was a factor, then post UNCORRECTED dyno sheets. You CANNOT have it both ways.
Originally Posted by jrsimon27
snoop in your 91 dyno pull your afrs seem to be close to 12.0 all the way it seems thats how shiv likes it.
Also, I think a lot of people are forgetting about the hellish weather cali has been having. Everyone is comparing their numbers to eveyone else. Remember it's common sense that weather plays a huge factor in our cars.
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From: La Jolla, CA
Originally Posted by Spec'd
Another +1
Originally Posted by nj1266
Guys,
If the dyno chart that you posted is CORRECTED, then the high temps are eliminated as variables. If you look at the charts posted by snoop then you will see an STD correction factor of 1.03.
That means that his real hp on that day at that time is 290 whp and 297 tq on the first sheet he posted.
Please stop saying that heat was a factor and then post CORRECTED dyno sheets. This is flat out not true. If you want to say that heat was a factor, then post UNCORRECTED dyno sheets. You CANNOT have it both ways.
If the dyno chart that you posted is CORRECTED, then the high temps are eliminated as variables. If you look at the charts posted by snoop then you will see an STD correction factor of 1.03.
That means that his real hp on that day at that time is 290 whp and 297 tq on the first sheet he posted.
Please stop saying that heat was a factor and then post CORRECTED dyno sheets. This is flat out not true. If you want to say that heat was a factor, then post UNCORRECTED dyno sheets. You CANNOT have it both ways.
My UNCORRECTED max values were 289 WHP and 264 TQ...
BTW how do correction values work??? My chart was corrected at 1.06 with the high temps and snoop was at 1.03 with his fairly low temps...
Originally Posted by alan678
Nope didnt ask...
Gotcha...
My UNCORRECTED max values were 289 WHP and 264 TQ...
BTW how do correction values work??? ..
Gotcha...
My UNCORRECTED max values were 289 WHP and 264 TQ...
BTW how do correction values work??? ..
So if you dyno on a hot day with high humidity and get 280 whp, your corrected numbers will be HIGHER since atmospheric conditions that you are comparing your number to are lower.
The best practice is to quote uncorrected numbers if you are NOT comparing your power to the power of another Evo with the same mods on the same dyno. But if you are comparing your numbers to another Evo with the same mods on the same dyno that dynoed on a different day, then it is BEST to quote corrected numbers.
In this thread it is good to quote CORRECTED numbers so we can tell you what other Evos with similar mods to your put down on the same dyno. That is what I and other have done even though my evo does not have cams but still put corrected numbers similar to yours.
My chart was corrected at 1.06 with the high temps and snoop was at 1.03 with his fairly low temps.
Last edited by nj1266; Aug 12, 2006 at 03:44 PM.
Originally Posted by SiCKlEyWiKeD
IMO that is very agressive for 91.
Also, I think a lot of people are forgetting about the hellish weather cali has been having. Everyone is comparing their numbers to eveyone else. Remember it's common sense that weather plays a huge factor in our cars.
Also, I think a lot of people are forgetting about the hellish weather cali has been having. Everyone is comparing their numbers to eveyone else. Remember it's common sense that weather plays a huge factor in our cars.
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What is a good cam gear timing combo for 272 intake/264 exhaust cam combo? Do u think having both gears at -3 with this cam combo is hurting me and is causing my wierd timing map?
Looking at the blue line on your dyno you can see that you were getting knock. This was probably due to being very lean. It appears that your tuner pulled additional timing and added fuel at the problem spots. This may be safe but in reality adding fuel alone probably would have done the trick as a richer mixture takes away some timing.
I highly doubt its due to the cam gears. Your CGs are set up for midrange power not top end power.
It would have been neat to see your baseline with the vishu map. Then correct the AFR on that map (do not touch timing) and compare the two. I bet they would be nearly identical but without the knock at 5600, 6400, and 6700 rpm.
In the end you picked up HP and made the car much safer. Basically you have a very safe pump gas tune. Now you can add race gas. With boost and timing maxed out your car will FLIPPING RIP!
I highly doubt its due to the cam gears. Your CGs are set up for midrange power not top end power.
It would have been neat to see your baseline with the vishu map. Then correct the AFR on that map (do not touch timing) and compare the two. I bet they would be nearly identical but without the knock at 5600, 6400, and 6700 rpm.
In the end you picked up HP and made the car much safer. Basically you have a very safe pump gas tune. Now you can add race gas. With boost and timing maxed out your car will FLIPPING RIP!
