Loading a new xede map
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From: Inland Empire, CA
Loading a new xede map
I downloaded the xmap2 from Vishnu's web site and also the three available maps 91, 93, 104 for the stage one sig. I just want to make sure I'm doing it right when I change maps:
I plugged in laptop to xede, turned ingition to on (car off), and double clicked the map I wanted to install (which was the 91 octane).
I got a message that changes won't take effect until I load map to xede. I click yes, it shows a progress bar at it loads (takes about 10 to 15 seconds).
Then, it asks if I want to burn map to epron. I click yes and wait another 10 to 15 seconds.
I then get a message that says "OK," which I click.
I turn the ignition off for about 2 seconds and then turn it back on. After a couple of seconds I get a message saying that my maps are not syncronised (Aussie spelling) and it gives me a couple of choices.
I just click the "Ignore" button, unplug serial cable, turn off laptop.
HAVE I SWICHED MAPS CORRECTLY?
I plugged in laptop to xede, turned ingition to on (car off), and double clicked the map I wanted to install (which was the 91 octane).
I got a message that changes won't take effect until I load map to xede. I click yes, it shows a progress bar at it loads (takes about 10 to 15 seconds).
Then, it asks if I want to burn map to epron. I click yes and wait another 10 to 15 seconds.
I then get a message that says "OK," which I click.
I turn the ignition off for about 2 seconds and then turn it back on. After a couple of seconds I get a message saying that my maps are not syncronised (Aussie spelling) and it gives me a couple of choices.
I just click the "Ignore" button, unplug serial cable, turn off laptop.
HAVE I SWICHED MAPS CORRECTLY?
I dunno the answer smogrunner and I've been watching your post hoping someone would reply because I'm getting ready to try the same thing this weekend. My Xede has me runniong about 25 psi...yowza! I'll let you know how things go for me.
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If you went through the burning process, the new map is indeed in there. If you need to double-check, download and show the new maps and see if they are the same ones that you tried uploading/burning into the XEDE. For some reason, the little watchdog that checks to see if the maps in the XEDE and those which are viewed in XMap are the same gets a little barky for no reason. This is the reason XMap v2 is still in Beta 
Cheers
shiv

Cheers
shiv
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From: Inland Empire, CA
Thanks Shiv, I posted that before driving up to Vishnu last week. After you explained the process to me, I finally figured it out. It wasn't difficult, but I think a lot of us newbies just get intimidated by the little Warning monkey that pops up.
Shiv, I've got stage 1 w/ dump back exhaust (cam gears going in soon). I succesfully ran Xmap2 today (after a great deal of computer mucking to get my computer to recognize the serial port) and lowered boost as far down as ~93% but still seem to be running close to 24 psi and also seem to be getting what I'm interpreting as boost spikes w/fuel cuts. I'm too frustrated to do any more today. Are you going up to Portland for dyno tuning anytime soon?
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From: Danville/Blackhawk, California
Try this: Set the entire boost table to "0" and see if boost falls to 10-12psi. If it's still 20+psi then you pulled the wrong wire from the ECU connector and the factory ECU still controlling boost. Don't worry, it's been done before 
Cheers,
shiv

Cheers,
shiv
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Latest update - w/ boost at 91% from about 3000 rpm to 5000 rpm max boost now about 22.5 psi and no more boost spike/fuel cut events. That part's good but I know it's not optimal mapping. However, something new is right at 7000 rpm there's an abrupt decrease in boost to about 14 - 15 psi and a wierd squelch sound (like water being sprayed under high pressure...? That's never happened before. Boo hoo
I think I need professional help!
I think I need professional help!
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From: Danville/Blackhawk, California
What does a 'squelch' sound like? 
Now that you've got the hand of boost control, you can dial the map in so that you get the desired boost at the desired engine speed. You may have to keep the cells at higher RPM full of 100s in order to keep the boost from dropping off to fast at engine speed. It's really only the rpm band between 3500-5000rpm where you may have to tweak as to not go too high or too low of boost pressure.
Cheers,
shiv

Now that you've got the hand of boost control, you can dial the map in so that you get the desired boost at the desired engine speed. You may have to keep the cells at higher RPM full of 100s in order to keep the boost from dropping off to fast at engine speed. It's really only the rpm band between 3500-5000rpm where you may have to tweak as to not go too high or too low of boost pressure.
Cheers,
shiv
Do you have your 2 black air box clips on the front of the air box that clip the front of the intake down to the frame?
Originally posted by BMo
Latest update - w/ boost at 91% from about 3000 rpm to 5000 rpm max boost now about 22.5 psi and no more boost spike/fuel cut events. That part's good but I know it's not optimal mapping. However, something new is right at 7000 rpm there's an abrupt decrease in boost to about 14 - 15 psi and a wierd squelch sound (like water being sprayed under high pressure...? That's never happened before. Boo hoo
I think I need professional help!
Latest update - w/ boost at 91% from about 3000 rpm to 5000 rpm max boost now about 22.5 psi and no more boost spike/fuel cut events. That part's good but I know it's not optimal mapping. However, something new is right at 7000 rpm there's an abrupt decrease in boost to about 14 - 15 psi and a wierd squelch sound (like water being sprayed under high pressure...? That's never happened before. Boo hoo
I think I need professional help!


