What error codes tab? If the SES is on a scantool can read the codes

 

you need an obd 2 tool to read the codes. the xede will not do it. if you do not have a scan tool, a local auto parts store will have one. autozone, advanced, pep boys, just to name a few.

 

What do you think is with the unsynchronized maps? Also do you think 5 deg. retarded is too much. The service engine light goes on and off can they still see what the last error code was if it isn't on? I have lots of questions sorry.

Thanks

Marc

 

i am not sure if a code is stored onc the light goes off. i have never had a light go off. once it comes on, it stays on.

as far as the map isssue, there are better people than me to help you with that.

i would set the gears on the settings that shiv recommends. i think he would know the settings better than anyone.

 

Evofreak, I believe the retard on the cams are supposed to be 2-3 degrees also cams/gears is stage 1+ not a stage 1 as you posted.

 

No disrespect here, but the Vishnu adjustable cam gears are set to 5deg retard by Vishnu. The XEDE maps are optimized for this setting.

Vishnu sells the Cam Gears as part of the Stage 1 kit ...

-- dave

 

IE Evo just said the same thing that you did, but you misread. Stage 1 is supposed to be -5 on both. Stage 1+ is -2 to -3.

Warren

 

If I misread, oops, my bad. However, if Evofreak got the stage 1 kit from Vishnu thats downpipe, exhaust, adj cam gears and XEDE but no cams, which I agree would make it a stage 1+. I've been wrong before, I'll be wrong again. Next to death, thats the one great certainity in my life.

I don't see any indication in the thread that Evofreak has replaced his cams, but I'm probably overlooking something ...

So if Evofreak has not replaced his cams, then the gears are set correctly to -5 from Vishnu.

br
-- dave

 

I only have cam gears no cam shafts, just checking the settings seemed harsh but i guess they are where they are supposed to be. My car still idles like crap and dies even when warmed up. I am going back to the shop and see if they can get me on their dyno. My car idles so low that when i am sitting at a stop light and i turn my wheel my car dies(power steering). Also i can't even turn on my A/C with out my car stalling out.

 

You don't need a dyno. You need a code puller. A dyno is pretty meaningless right now since I suspect a sensor isn't working or the XEDE is installeed incorrectly. Typically, those with idle problems have pulled the wrong green wire from the harness (idle control wire). Unfortunately, this mistake does not induce a CEL for idle control. It just makes idle really bad and unstable. Did you double-check your work to make sure the right wire was extracted?

Give us a call today and speak to either myself for Dave. We can go over things together and get the problem solved in no time.

Cheers,

Shiv

 

My bad. Just thought maybe you had cams and the 5 degrees was out of spec. I apoligize and need to go back to school and learn how to read or something. Maybe it is my ADHD kickin in.

 

Ok so back to my other question, my service engine light goes on and off sometimes, can they still scan to see what the last code was? I am leaving for a day but I will call you guys tomorrow so we can get this fixed.
Thanks alot for all your help,

Marc

 

Hey thanks for talking to the guys at GRD for me, turns out it was a wrong wire in the wrong hole. The car is so strong after 4 grand and it never stops it amazing. One question, when i do 3rd or 4th gear pulls the car sometimes jolts and cuts boost or fule not sure which(how can you tell). It never happens when i make a run from a complete stop
Why is it doing this and what shoudl i do to fix it.

 

You are hitting boost cut, go into the xede and lower the boost values by using the "," boost is located in the 4th bank and labeled "unknown" play with 4000, 4500, and 4700 rpm. Most of the time it's around the 4500 rpm range. best thing to do is go into 3rd or 4th and at 4000 floor it until 5000 and keep lowering the boost until the boost cut stops. Also the reason you do not get the boost cut under WOT is because you don't get the spike like you do when you floor it at 4000ish RPM. Also once you are happy with the map make sure you burn it to eprom Hope this helps some.

 

You can solve this problem if you just purchase an xedeflash...also it will raise your red line and remove your speed limiter...This will involve removing ECU from your car and shipping it to Vishnu in Cali for a re-flash.... My 2c