EvilBlueEvo8

iTrader: (26)

very detailed.

aresix6

iTrader: (3)

very very nice....does the DDS3 come with everything I need to make this possible? Where can get it from? One question regarding teh DDS3 flow sensor. I noticed it uses push-in style hose connectors. The SMC kit uses SS braided lines with NPT fittings...I don't really like hte idea of hodge-podging an adapter section together, is there an option for NPT style fittings on each sode of the sensor? Thanks Rich, you seem to have lotsa know-how on this topic.

inco9nito99

iTrader: (90)

I've been running my DIY Methanol kit for over a year now and its running beautifully after testing out different nozzle/solutions. Been able to run upwards of 25psi on 93octane full timing (16degrees) and make some serious power on a GT35R. Its a great thing and I honestly don't know why people are paying $$$$$$$$$$$ for "kits" that essentially do the same thing with a few minor add-ons. Thats my take on that..

Richard L

iTrader: (5)

The flow sensor has 1/8BSP female on each port, all that is required is a 1/8BSP male to 1/8NPT adaptor (we can provide). It will not be a hodge-podging affair. But you need to split the braided line to splice in the sensor.

I think SMC has their failsafe attachment coming out very soon, would it be easier to get theirs? save you a great deal of work?

I only offering the DDS3 because you are not sure when they are going to bring it out.

Richard

Richard L

iTrader: (5)

Why don't you publish some info here to help others to achieve the same?

Richard

aresix6

iTrader: (3)

Hey Rich thanks for the info, BTW, just verified the boost will not go above wastegate pressure with the factory solenoid unplugged. About the SMC failsafe...here is what I posted in the other thread:

Oh, what is nice about the SMC kitis that halfway thru the briaded line, there is already a "split/junction". Basically looks like 2 sections of hose joined by a nipple, which would work great, just undo the junction in insert flow sensor...

Richard L

iTrader: (5)

This is perfect... such a simple solution.


Great to know this, You are now spoilt for choice.

Richard

Richard L

iTrader: (5)

Have found another DIY system.

http://users.frii.com/maphill/wi.html

inco9nito99

iTrader: (90)

I am away from my home computer where I have description on how you can build your own kit. Once I get near it I will gladly post an attachment.

SlowCar

iTrader: (4)

Thank you! One more experienced person in the team!

SlowCar

iTrader: (4)

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...chmentid=80925

Hi Richard, what kind of thread is on the OD of the bung for the aquamist nozzle?

C6C6CH3vo

iTrader: (9)

This is somewhat OT with the thread but I have a question about a setup in mind involving the Aquamist DDS3's use as a DIY failsafe addidtion using a SMC kit with a MBC:

If I purchase the Buschur SMC kit, can I add on the DDS3 using a solinoid mounted line bypassing my MBC?

If the DDS3 energizes (proper fluid flow) it's respective solinoid to close (no WG actuation),
could I just use the factory boost solenoid for this? I do know if I disconnect the factory harness from the solenoid I will get a "serv eng light", but I was thinking that if the solenoid energizes to the right position for the setup, I could use that, and for the factory harness that will now be unpluged to it, I can either make or break the sensing signal on it (which every one it is) with a dummy in order to eliminate the engine lite. I guess I would need a diagram of the solinoid in the first place to see if it would work and to find out what mechanism turns the service lite on.

Does anyone have any info on this or is this not a convienient idea?

Richard L

iTrader: (5)

The aquamist nozzle uses a M8x 0.75mm metric thread. The OD is 8mm. If you are cutting a thread in a hole, the drill size should be 9/32" or 7.2mm.

We supply bungs and adaptors (1/8 BSP male to M8 female) for the aquamist jet (for frequent change of jet):




Richard

Richard L

iTrader: (5)

Yes. You need to use a "noramlly open" inline valve, normally termed as 2/3 type. SlowCar may be able to help you with the part number or you can read the following thread:
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/phpBB2/vie...r=asc&start=15


You are absolutely correct, the "normally open" valve will close under successful detection of liquid flow by the DDS3 (MBC method).

Using the factory's solenoid valve:
You can can use another output from the DDS3 to achieve this. It just break the power to the factory valveunder "fault conditions". On the dDS3, there is an optional "dummy load" resistor circuitry on the DDS3 to fool the engine management to think the valve is still in circuit. the 3W 39ohm wire wound resistor is supplier with the kit, but you need to solder it on yourself.

The reason is simple, your engine management may need to see a different load resistor. This can only be done by experiment. We need to establish the maxmium resistor value that the ECU accepts so that we can minimise the heat dissipation of dummy load. The higher the resistance, the less heat dissipation.

Richard

Richard L

iTrader: (5)

here is a DIY system that can match any progressive system using a few Aquamist parts.

Richard