Tank/Pump Placement Question
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,054
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From: South Coast of MA
Tank/Pump Placement Question
Does the pump have to be lower or higher than an alky tank? reason I ask is because I'm thinking of cutting a hole in my trunk floor and mounting the tank where the spare tire goes. this way the tank only shows partially. then i can build a rack to mount the pump under the floor cover so thats all hidden too. was just worried about suction and such. didn't want to suck up air.
It's not that easy.
When the pump is up too high, the negative pressure on the inlet side of the pump can cause the meth to boil. This is not usually a risk for ignition / explosion, but the pump is designed to pump liquid, not gas and you will essentially lose the prime on the pump. I have seen it happen before.
The dangerous thing is that if you switch to high boost expecting meth, and don't get any, you could seriously damage your engine.
When the pump is up too high, the negative pressure on the inlet side of the pump can cause the meth to boil. This is not usually a risk for ignition / explosion, but the pump is designed to pump liquid, not gas and you will essentially lose the prime on the pump. I have seen it happen before.
The dangerous thing is that if you switch to high boost expecting meth, and don't get any, you could seriously damage your engine.
the 8000 series that all injection kit makers use are self priming.
the 2 things you have to take into considerations are:
1 - making sure that your tank fill lid has a one way valve. that way, as methanol is drawn out of the tank, no partial vacuum will be created in the pump inlet/tank region that might cause methanol to "boil" due to reduce pressure.
2 - connections of fittings between tank/pump inlet has to be good - to avoid leaks or drawing of air into the system.
a check valve is a bad idea if you are running a "progressive pump speed" system, which major kit makers are using - replace that with a solenoid valve.
the 2 things you have to take into considerations are:
1 - making sure that your tank fill lid has a one way valve. that way, as methanol is drawn out of the tank, no partial vacuum will be created in the pump inlet/tank region that might cause methanol to "boil" due to reduce pressure.
2 - connections of fittings between tank/pump inlet has to be good - to avoid leaks or drawing of air into the system.
a check valve is a bad idea if you are running a "progressive pump speed" system, which major kit makers are using - replace that with a solenoid valve.
i don't trust trunk mounted pumps...
...had a bad situation.
So you guys are saying check valves/switch whatever wont work in a standard snow stage1 /2 kit? Doesn't the problem with siphoning ....lie with vacuum created from the system?
...had a bad situation.
So you guys are saying check valves/switch whatever wont work in a standard snow stage1 /2 kit? Doesn't the problem with siphoning ....lie with vacuum created from the system?
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would be nice to have my pump in the trunk...cooler and safer too
what's the difference in response time from having the pump and tank in the front towards having it in the rear...standard meth kit...nothing fansy like those progressive units.
what's the difference in response time from having the pump and tank in the front towards having it in the rear...standard meth kit...nothing fansy like those progressive units.
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=306460
if you have a solenoid valve that keeps the line primed with methanol almost to the nozzle, the response time is no diff between a trunk vs. a front mounted pump. I have a front mounted pump on my viii and a trunk mounted pump on this ix, the wideband says none.




