Has anyone done port injection with the Aquamist HFS-5 yet? What would I need on top of the standard kit to make it work? Jets, line, some kind of manifold, a check valve, anything else? Thanks for any suggestions.

 

Heres a thread that goes into details about a HFS-5 port injection setup....not an EVO but info is still relevant

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=334573

Might need to sign up for the download in the first post. Too big for me to post it here.

 

Thanks, there's some good info in there. So the jets have to be port injection specific? Where can I order them from? Also, is the 5th jet in the cold side completely necessary? Couldn't I just run the 4 in the intake?

 

The jets (consider all of them) are by size for needed volume first. With port injection the jets are most likely 0.3's and because of this and because they are so tiny special jets were made. Along with these tiny jets an addtional 30 micron filter is needed (actually required) along with the 100 micron filter.

The addtional jets in the cold side is being done with the idea that the port injection jets are for knock suppression = having a more direct effect on the burn in the combustion chamber (bigger water droplets/molecules) and the jet in the pipe is for intake air charge cooling. Typically and for many years the selection of jet location has been a trade off between closer to the combustion chamber for knock suppression and closer to the IC exit tank for intake air charge cooling.

When I was first trying to tweak things in order to hold HOM I discovered that two jets, one in the IC exit tank and one close to the throttle body made things work. IMO the water from the jet closer to the throttle body was having a big effect on the combustion chamber process.

NOTE: intake air charge cooling or hi heat here has an effect on knock, so try and realize that both actually effect knock. I have a technical document that goes into this in detail.

To help put into perspective whats trying to be done in the link thread

For the SRT4 the Dodge engineers developed factory performance upgrades. In particular they have a series of staged kits I,II,II with II III having whats called the "Toys" option which include DAB (Dial A Boost) IC sprayers (by the way Aquamist jets and filter are used) and a High Octane Mode (HOM). Briefly, HOM is for when the driver wants more power for say the track......the drive fills up with race gas and hits the HOM button, the PCM now switches maps and allows for more timing and more power and lights up a dash mounted red LED (over simplified but in essence this is what happens). If the PCM (via monitoring the knock sensor) determines that the user does not have HO in the tank (or another issue that could cause damage with the increased timing in HOM) it reverts back to safe fuel mappings and signals the HOM LED to blink.....holding HOM by using water in replacement for HO is for many SRT4 owners a kinda like finding the holy grail......something like 30 more horse power = IMO you feel it more in a lot more torque/pull........its a really really a good feeling doing this and knowing it's because of WATER......just brings big big grins along with a feeling like you in on a big secret

I was doing this on stage II a couple of years ago and have upgraded to stage III and as soon as I can get things finished up with other happenings going on I will do the same with stage III in a very similar fashion as cali. I need to tell you that the real beauty of this setup is that the car drives like 100% stock = some times with modifications theres trade offs in reliability or drivability, not so with this. When my system was setup I left my DDS3 on and never turned off, I would start the car (daily driver, 7 days a week) reach down and hit HOM (deactivated when ignition key cycled or HOM switch turned off) and then start driving. When I filled up for gas I would buy washer fluid and fill up the supply tank.....nothing could be more simple in my mind. Because your not in boost all the time when commuting it drives like any 4cyl.....when passing a slow driver on the freeway the car takes off like you down the track and the DDS3 bargraph lights up like Christmas and you know that if theres a problem the PCM will take care of things and the DDS3 will dump boost as an extra precaution= it can not be better then this.

With the EVO owners having tools to access the the PCM for direct changes I would think that a tuner who knows how to tune for race gas could do the same with the HFS-5 (remember the HFS-5 does not need tuning = it uses the FIDC which is the PCM as a controller for water injection) and use the failsafe to take a corrective action......the driver could continue on with no boost till a map switch could be done = I do not know but I would guess that you guys need to pull over and reload a map rather then flip a switch to load a safe map.

 

Ahhh, I've been wondering what everyone was always talking about when they said HOM. Thanks for clearing that up for me.

So do I have to contact Aquamist directly for the special jets, or are they available for order through their distributors? I bought my kit through Vivid racing, and the smallest jets they have listed are .4mm, is this small enough? My injectors are 630cc.

This kit is going on a '97 Audi, I have a switch on my ECU to change fuel and timing setings. I don't know if I want to use a jet pre throttle body or not, I've heard of some Audi/VW owners having problems with the electronics they they have a jet place there. Nobody that I've seen is running this kit on an Audi or VW, so I came here for information. I appreciate your help.

 

The "Special jets" might not be listed or displayed by dealers because it's not as common. The jets may not be in stock at the dealer, if not the dealer can contact the warehouse and order them along with the addtional 30 micron filter (make sure to get this and install just after the 100 micron filter..the warehouse will insist on this filter when the jets are ordered).

About jets and locations, get the jet adapters and have them installed and then test for results with different locations. If for instance you find an issue with a jet location then remove the jet and use the blanking plug for the unused adapter and place the jet in another location. The jet adapters are a fantastic tuning tool in order to perfect the install so as to get the desired results. The adapters are small and unobtrusive and when unused are no big deal.....but having options when tuning is a beautiful thing. This is also useful for experimenting with different jet size's = swapping jets is really really fast....great when dyno time/tuner time is expensive.

 

Why did you decide to inject so much water/meth? I'm running 630cc injectors, and using the calculation in the Aquamist guide, I'm only coming up with 450cc for my application. Do they make jets smaller than what you used? Are you running really big injectors?