plug color was not even, it was obvious the cylinder closest to the throttle body was running hotter/leaner than the others. I attributed it to uneven meth distribution, but that's a bit of an assumption on my part. Makes sense, as the denser meth droplets won't make the sharp left hand turn into that cylinder runner, they're going to want to keep traveling straight. Spraying about 900 cc/min, I can see how some of the droplets may try to coalesce and not evaporate fully and get slung further down the manifold. My nozzles are about 3' and 2 1/2' from the throttle body. I could go further away, but that would cause more lag in the system due to extra tubing after the high speed valve. Why not try direct port instead, or at least that's my line of thinking.

 

Since I am a Aquamist full line distributer I will not discriminate against setups… But I will give a full in-depth picture of what you’re getting into and how to make the best of what you want to do.


The current setup:

3in and 2.5in from the TB is way to close. In the Aquamist’s installation manual it states minimum of 6in from the TB to provide proper atomization. Currently it’s not evenly distributing because it’s too heavy and will take the path of least resistance.(which you so discovered) You are correct; since Alcohol is a fuel and can be burned it will be evident on the plugs. In testing (IN HOT AZ) I have seen over 20 whp difference in jet placement in pipes. (Results may vary according to climate) In a dual jet set up 6in then 18 inches away is ideal for any mixture. When properly place a pre TB injection will make more power than direct port methanol as previously stated.


Fire proof it:

Methanol is very flammable as you know. It has minimum ignition energy (mJ) of 0.14 when gasoline has 0.29 (easier to ignite, but NOT burn) Methanol has a viscosity of 0.59 when water is 1.0. Being half, meth will find leaks twice as easy as H20 will. So lines should be check constantly. Especially since the intake manifold is directly above the exhaust and methanol being so easy to ignite, this is not a ideal safe setup. Heat will cause the lines to become brittle and crack. X’s that by 4 lines and fire hazard is very large and when methanol is burning it’s almost impossible to see or detect till it’s too late… (I have seen this) This is very dangerous. Look to protect the lines from heat as much as possible and or add some h20 to lower the risk.


Full of hot air:

Half the benefits of methanol in a injection system besides antifreeze, and 106 RON is the great atomization (low viscosity) 1. Allowing for best cylinder distribution 2. Best intake charge cooling next to N02. This cooling accounts for over 50% of power being gained in a “standard” injection system. Cooler air is heavier burns better and is much less likely to cause detonation or knocking. On a N02 IC sprayer results have been 40+ whp, it’s very important.

When you go direct port you will eliminate this cooling, a much need aspect of injection. Water could and does make up for this in raw cooling, methanol cannot. Also adding so much more fuel in a liquid forum will cause more CO and have less space for good burnable oxygen, you need all the dense air you can get. So consider adding a 0.7mm or 0.8mm jet 16-20 inches away from the TB to cool the air charge down. A simple Y before the 4into1 will work fine. Don’t worry about the lag, set the injection to come in a hair sooner and there won’t be any issues only benefits. You have one of the best systems ever made, lag shouldn’t be a worry


The hard truth:

Since your motor will see the methanol in a completely different forum you will have several issues. 1. Long term the meth will strip metal of all protective properties and corrosion will set in, Piston rings will wear faster and valve seats will be looser ect ect. Prepare for complete engine overhaul. 2. Due to high amounts of methanol in a fuel state (not atomized) the spark will have a hard time at higher RPMS igniting all of it so it could experience blow out. Look to a COP, coil replacement or CDI box to help this. Most race teams use a magneto, this isn’t a option but something to know.


Clogging, a issue for meth heads :

Having used methanol in various racing applications for a primary race fuel for 10+ years, I have seen long term results from methanol. Having to run engines dry of fuel to insure it’s all out and draining tanks after each track day to insure clogging is kept to a minimum. Methanol is primarily processed and strained threw cotton (ethanol threw metal)The cotton is found at the bottom of fuel tanks settling if left for too long, this also causes fuel injectors to clog and fail, imagine what it could to a none regulated or monitored injection jet?

3 filters are a must! First a inline 100 micron then 30 micron then a “special” jet 0.3mm with special filter. The little issue of improper distribution could be little to none in damage when it was pre TB It will now be at 4x’s the risk, the flow sensor will not show one cylinder being clogged (other jets will take the extra pressure and will flow more while the one starves) and your mac valve wont lower boost and one cylinder will fail very fast without its methanol unless you have 4 widebands or flow sensors. Considering its replacing actual gas in the cylinder so your AFRs will be 13’s or higher! (since your other jets will push more the lean afrs will be hard to detect in only one cylinder) and catastrophic failure will happen very very fast. Also if a leak occurs pressure will be low and you could miss it on the flow gauge (seen this too) causing engine failure. H20 not being a fuel won’t effect AFRS allowing for better monitoring if problems with flow arises.

Jet insert pics:

Non Filtered jet insert;



Filtered jet insert;



Both;



Conclusion:

Get the filtered jets! No more questions! It’s not worth the risk of blowing up. Then add a pre TB jet for cooling and added protection also bumping your injection/fuel mixture closer to the right level for 100% meth. DEI has spark plug wire covers to protect against heat or anything else you want to use is fine, these will work great for protecting your lines from heat.

I do wish you luck, I hope this helps.

The H20 Lover,

Evan Smith

 

Double post...

 

Evan,

good post, great info! Will the filtered inserts fit a .4 mm jet, or are they specific to the .3 mm jets? If they fit the .4 mm jet, do you sell the filter independently of the jet? I've already got the .4 mm unfiltered jets, looking to retrofit them. Didn't realize you were an aquamist dealer already, I saw in a previous post you were headed in that direction though. I really like the idea of filters in the jets in addition to the 100 and 30 micron filters already in place.

When I say 2 1/2' and 3' in the other post, I mean feet, so the nozzles were quite a ways from the throttle body, but it still looked like I was getting uneven distribution of meth to the cylinders.

 

When it comes to sales I cant advertise here yet. I have been keeping a low profile to not upset the system. I have been a dealer for over a year. I have never seen the filters sold individually but Ill check. Just know the filter is what limits the CC flow/volume so when putting it on a 0.4mm make it closer to a 0.2 - 0.1mm size.

Feet... cool, glad thats clear... Next I would check current jets for clog's if not atomizing well distribution of meth will be poor. Also check pressure of the pump, using 100% meth could cause a lot of issue with this as you know. Look towards keeping one of these jets for use in DP.

Evan Smith

 

^ were't u with evasive?

 

^^ Close Vivid Racing. I quit over a year ago to better myself.

 

cool

 

I am still waiting on pics of the 4 port bar. Here are some pics of the T- split compression fittings from Howerton Engineering. I have found that my quick connect fittings are leaking under boost so I am changing out all of them to comp. fittings.

 

Here's a quick pic of the install so far, don't mind the dirt, it's a daily driver. Should start it up tomorrow and check for leaks prior to road testing.

One question, I've got the standard 100 micron filter between the tank and the pump. Does the 30 micron filter go on the suction side or discharge side of the pump? I plan on putting it on the discharge side, as that's where most fine filters are anyway. Strainers on the suction, and filters on the discharge is what I'm used to.

Happy Thanksgiving to all

 

Looks like a nice clean install. I was thinking of doing Direct Port injection set up some day myself. Good luck on your project .

 

That awesome looking. Hope it works out how you want it to.

 

30 micron should go after about 6in or so before the hsv. As for the leaky jets try putting a flame to it, it will seal up tight.

Looks good.

 

The 30 micron filter should only be used on the suction side of the pump. It should be placed in series between the 100 micron filter and the pump. The disc filters are not rated for the types of pressures run in these systems. These filters can burst(and have been tested show so) when operated at these system pressures.

For the HFS-6 an optional, new all-metal high pressure filter has been developed that screws into the inlet port of the FCM, but for the HFS-5 the disc filters should be run on the suction side of the pump.

Jeff Howerton

 

Interesting... Never heard that. I have used them for years prior to the HSV with no issue from pressure. But if it has proven to fail in the past then I will change mine...



OP

Little things like that come from doing it for a long time are cool to learn.
I for one would use JB weld around the jet adapters. Why? usually they are not tapped to deap given the manifold/pipe. The vibration has caused them to leak or come loose a solid jb weld around it will insure it doesn't do that. In the case of the AMS pretty mani, IDK rtv teflon or something to insure it doesn't leak??? Good Luck

Evan Smith