Yet Another Direct Port Thread
Nov 28, 2009, 10:12 AM
#31
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The 30 micron filter should only be used on the suction side of the pump. It should be placed in series between the 100 micron filter and the pump. The disc filters are not rated for the types of pressures run in these systems. These filters can burst(and have been tested show so) when operated at these system pressures.
For the HFS-6 an optional, new all-metal high pressure filter has been developed that screws into the inlet port of the FCM, but for the HFS-5 the disc filters should be run on the suction side of the pump.
Jeff Howerton
For the HFS-6 an optional, new all-metal high pressure filter has been developed that screws into the inlet port of the FCM, but for the HFS-5 the disc filters should be run on the suction side of the pump.
Jeff Howerton
thanks for the input, it will be an easy fix to put it on the suction side of the pump.
FYI, Jeff is a full line Auqamist dealer (not just kits, but all the individual parts also) here in the U.S. He's super fast on shipping, and has great customer service. This is where I ordered the parts for the dp setup, and couldn't be happier with the service I got.
http://www.howertonengineering.com/
Nov 30, 2009, 10:10 AM
#32
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plug color was not even, it was obvious the cylinder closest to the throttle body was running hotter/leaner than the others. I attributed it to uneven meth distribution, but that's a bit of an assumption on my part. Makes sense, as the denser meth droplets won't make the sharp left hand turn into that cylinder runner, they're going to want to keep traveling straight. Spraying about 900 cc/min, I can see how some of the droplets may try to coalesce and not evaporate fully and get slung further down the manifold. My nozzles are about 3' and 2 1/2' from the throttle body. I could go further away, but that would cause more lag in the system due to extra tubing after the high speed valve. Why not try direct port instead, or at least that's my line of thinking.
I think you might be making a very large assumption. One, if you're using 50/50 water/meth and injecting a "correct" amount (15-25% of your fuel flow rate) and you're not excessively rich without the water/meth on (ie not pig rich before adding in the water/meth) then your plugs should look normal. and by normal i mean brownish/tanish without major carbon build up. water obviously doesn't burn and methanol burns clean plus with the tiny amount that you're actually injecting you almost can never get a good enough plug reading to actually say if you're injecting too much fluid or getting unequal distribution.
if you're seeing carbon on three plugs and none on one then you could almost say that the other three aren't getting any fluid and the one cylinder is getting it all. like i said, water/meth basically burns clean.
btw the only true way to read plugs is to start with new ones and then read them immediately after a run or pull.
Nov 30, 2009, 12:47 PM
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A large difference in plug appearance is not good and probably not an issue with the water/methanol system. In my 4G63 with a stock intake, all 4 looked identical and I was using something on the order of 1000CC/MN. This was with a single nozzle approximately 4.5 inches from the TB.
Now granted there is a lot of difference between an old 6 bolt DSM and modern hardware, but the physics are pretty similar in terms of airflow. In my case, I was injecting very heavily accross a very wide boost range, and all 4 plugs looked identical. This was with BR7Es plugs.
Now granted there is a lot of difference between an old 6 bolt DSM and modern hardware, but the physics are pretty similar in terms of airflow. In my case, I was injecting very heavily accross a very wide boost range, and all 4 plugs looked identical. This was with BR7Es plugs.
Dec 1, 2009, 01:36 PM
#35
I will be PM'ing you for those filters once I am ready to get addicted to meth again.
Dec 10, 2009, 07:43 PM
#37
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Another option for direct port manifold we have been doing for the bwm guys. If there is interest can do a 4 port configuration for evos. maybe looking at around $40 for the part including fittings.
Dec 21, 2009, 08:17 PM
#43
heat will cause the lines to shrink and get hard. The better protected the less they get hard.
Aquamist sells a line cutter that cuts a straight and perfect cut every time.
A pair of pliers always bends the line and cuts with edges, leftovers ect. ect.
Good Luck
Evan Smith
Aquamist sells a line cutter that cuts a straight and perfect cut every time.
A pair of pliers always bends the line and cuts with edges, leftovers ect. ect.
Good Luck
Evan Smith
Dec 21, 2009, 09:57 PM
#44
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I used the aquamist line cutter on my recent install, and I do have some weepers on some older quick connectors. But the new 4-to-1 quick connector recently installed is leak free. Also ran into some leaks at my pump I've been sorting out. The pump has been in service for close to 2 yrs. on straight meth, and my understanding is that's about the limit for the seals (body cavity) on the older shurflo pumps in this service. Between the weather, work schedule, and the holidays, very little has been done on the tuning front so far, but the DP system is up and working properly. Started some baseline pulls yesterday, in preparation for full out tuning on different mixtures and nozzle sizes. Too early to offer up any results, should have something to report in the next couple weeks.
The aquamist line cutter works great!
The aquamist line cutter works great!
Dec 22, 2009, 03:23 PM
#45
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Good to hear. A razor blade used with a sliding motion also works, but it is a bit of a pain and can take practice. Generally fittings wont be so sensitive as to need a microscopically perfect cut, but its certanly a good idea to be as precise as possible.
Just take the razor blade and use moderate pressure downward while sliding the edge of the blade over the tube. If anyone has seen how Samurai trained to use their swords, its the same basic principal.
A lot of hobby stores will also have cutting tools that work well.
Just take the razor blade and use moderate pressure downward while sliding the edge of the blade over the tube. If anyone has seen how Samurai trained to use their swords, its the same basic principal.
A lot of hobby stores will also have cutting tools that work well.