my numbers were similar on a mustang dyno here in austin texas. the numbers in my sig were before the 272's were installed and some other mods. i was told if you pull 300's off the mustang dyno, well at least the one i was tuned on, you're running in the high 11's at the track. You should be able to do around 12.6-12.7. Good luck getting the tune fixed.

 

We are talking about AFR...not 1/4 miles. Gruppes does have a mustang (load base) dyno and you should tune on that cause it simulate road condition therefore its more accurate.

 

I had less mods, a richer AFR, and more power on the same dyno , on the same day, but hey, whatever.

 

What was the point of your post? Your car made more power than mine...thanks for the info. If i could give you a cookie.....I would.

 

That's why I said "but hey, whatever"

Sorry, didn't mean anything by it. What I did mean is that you should have your AFR checked out.

 

razorlab,

Can you post your dyno plot........or if not, can you tell me what your A/Fs were?

 

Most of our tuning is done on the road. Dynos are useful tools but can not accurately simulate road conditions.

A lot of things can throw off an Air/Fuel reading on the dyno. Improper calibrations on the dyno and/or wideband are the main things to look out for.

 

Would Works be able to sell these WR turbos also?

 

sorry, i just noticed i posted this in the wrong thread.
Sorry again for the confusion.

 

A. When measuring AFRs, please REMOVE the catalytic convertor to obtain accurate readings.
We have been road testing a fair number of these 'concerned' customers at our expense only to find these cars are running very safe.
It appears that these cars had AFRs measured at the tailpipe WITH their fully functional catalytic convertors in place.

B. We have WR turbos (and 10.5 hotsides) in stock but we are NOT finished with our WORKS T2 kit for the WR. Please check the website or sign-up for our Newsletter for the lateset information.

 

Thanks for clearing that up.

So, how do dyno tuners usually get an accurate AFR reading since I'm guessing that the vast majority of customers don't have a wide-band monitor fitted? Do they routinely remove the cat.........or is the tail-pipe measurement accurate if you have a test pipe or HFC fitted?

 

Can't they just plug it into the O2 sensor bung?

1. Oh and Works, you guys have 10.5 hotside in stock?
2. When you install those, is the flash for it the one you would give an 05 Evo?
3. Well my AFR's were taken at my tailpipe on a dynojet (have no cat) and they were around 12 from 3.5k to 7.5k rpm, does that seem right?

 

Dunno how representative thos tailpipe readings are. But both Buschur & "Dynoflash Al" have stated that AFRs of 12 at WOT are too lean & potentially dangerous. You should be looking for AFRs in the low 11s on a dyno (maybe even lower if it's not a load-bearing dyno like a Mustang).

Do you have the Works flash? If so, you should be OK, regardless of what the dyno AFR is reading (there are some threads floating around on AFRs with the Works flash which are road-tuned to be safe).

 

Yes, the wideband can go in at the O2 bung. However, the primary sensor isn't that easy to get to and the added heat would probably reduce the life of the sensor. The secondary sensor is post-cat and would still need an test pipe in place to register the proper AFRs.

1. Yes, the 10.5 hotside is in stock.

2. No, the flash is not an '05 flash, it's a flash for your model year adapted for the new exhaust housing.

3. Without looking at the graph and knowing some other details, it's hard to say whether it's "right."

 

Will I am not scared about the tune, I love your guys P2, but here is a link to my dyno graph:

http://www.norcalevo.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4364

How much is the hotside installed with flash?