Yep. I read a couple of online instructions for installing them, and it's just a bit too hairy for me. Did you try axis?

 

Check your pm's.

 

I know this has been answered, but wanting to make sure I am clear!

While the spring/retainers are not needed, what are the benefits of them? Being able to rev to a higher rpm in order to obtain more power? Is this the jist of it?

I'm asking because of budget reasons. I know these prducts cost another 2-300 to purchase and the installation process also goes ways up because the head needs pulled. Just trying to budget this purchase out!
Thanks.

 

You dont have to remove the cylinder head in order to put to springs and retainers in. You can use a valve spring remover tool to come in from the top where that cams where and replace the springs that way. You also need a special connector that fills the cylinder with air so the valves dont fall in. Depending on what springs you have, it could take an extra 1 - 2 hours.

 

That's so empirically wrong it's not even funny.

 

It's really only a major issue with the down pipes. With our soon to be realased CAST (no cracking like Stainless ones!) o2 sensor housing, 3" inch downpipes will be the way to go. Our 3" downpipe is right around the corner, by the way.

 

Bump for this question....

 

Tyler, no offense man, but you're just wrong.

I will be as much money as you want to lay on the table, put a 2.75in exhaust on (you make a 2.75?) with a straight pipe (stock 02 housing) and then put a Buschur 3in exhaust on (or any other of the american made real 3in exhausts), the 3in is going to put out both more HP and more torque and it's not going to be a 1whp difference either.

To make it simple, on the same day, same tuner, same engine management system, same dyno, my car with a Buschur 3in exhaust (not other modifications except a MAF delete pipe, which the other car had and a MBC) made 25 more HP than a car with your exhaust.

 

Dude, give it up will ya. Go PM him or start another thread about exhausts. Some of us are trying to get honest information on the CAMS. (incidentally the title of this thread)

 

Abrupt gas expansion cools the exhaust gases rapidly and creates undesirable turbulence... back pressure. It's pure thermodynamics we are talking about here. This has been tested; we made it 2.75" for a reason and it wasn't cost. (2.75" material is more expensive than the more common 3")

We are talking about the downpipe. I repeat: the stock O2 sensor housing outlet is very small (2.5"). This is why the 2.75" DOWNPIPE works best, with whatever catback you have. There is LESS backpressure (read: more power) with the 2.75" downpipe partly because of the O2 sensor housing outlet.

I hope this helps you understand. The 2.75" down pipe was engineered to work best with the stock turbo and stock O2 sensor housing. Moving up to our Cast O2 housing with 3" outlet and our 3" downpipe will result in good power gains. But not the 3" downpipe alone.

But boomn29 is right. We should reserve this thread for the original topic. We will be more than happy to discuss fluid dynamics & thermodynamics if you want to give us a call or check out www.asme.org or www.sae.org.

 

About the Springs and Retainers:

First of all, the WORKS 269 Power Cams were designed to work perfectly with the stock valve train. There is not a "need" to upgrade.

Should you get the springs and retainers at the same time? Hell yes! They might not be "needed" for the WORKS 269 Power Cams, but there are a lot of benefits of going to the upgraded valve train.

One of the most obvious is to be able to rev higher. The WORKS 269 Power Cams have a much greater top end than stock, and will still make decent torque past 8000rpms. With the WORKS valve train, you can go there and back everyday, or even higher! (as high as 8500rpms!) Higher Revs with a matched cam will make more power.

Don't like revving to the sky? We still recommend our valve train. Even if you don't raise the limiter, you will be safer at whatever RPM you do choose to take it to. You’ll have less chance of coil bind, less chance of valve float. And if you are having the cams put in already, it's only an extra 1-1.5 hours labor to put them in.

I hope that helps to answer some of the questions you guys had. Let’s keep this thread on topic from now on, Thanks.

 

Thanks for the much needed info mate....

At least i have a peace of mind now...Power without reliability is gona comes to a waste unless one got a deep pocket...my 2cents of thought...

 

With that being said, if a customer (such as myself) decides to buy the cams, puts in the upgraded valve train, does WORKS basically combine the P2 with the RL flash and up the rev limiter to whatever you guys or the customer deems fit? Has this uber high rev limit been tested yet?

 

I thought the P2 removed the rev limit altogether?

 

I thought it raised it to 7800 or 7850. I think the RL flash lets you raise it to whatever rev limit you would prefer.