mrfred

iTrader: (50)

Raceghost, as I said in my previous post, the inexpensive solution is to have DSMLink repair your ECU.

Raceghost

iTrader: (4)

Ok, thank you for the information. I am starting to get a picture. So Relay 2, Pin 2 to pin 3 is the coil side of the relay, there is voltage running through that to Pin 22 on ECU. I assumed direction of voltage was Relay 2 was giving Pin 22 Voltage, which then runs through the ECU to other end of circuit. So when I ground Pin 22, I was not understanding based solely on the thought of it receiving voltage from Relay 2. So when I ground Pin 22, I assumed I was completing the circuit based off of the wire connecting Relay 2 pin 3 to Pin 22 being broke. That's how it looks to me. So I do infact have a blown ECU, and not a wire connection issue between Relay 2 and ECU?

Thank you for being patient. I am trying to clarify and understand.

I am looking at all avenues of repair including new ECU. I still want to understand how this circuit works from a current and voltage flow perspective. Forgive me if I ask all the wrong questions in an effort to find any and all information. Your input is greatly appreciated.

WytWun

Most likely yes.

Raceghost

iTrader: (4)

DSMLink/ECULink denied their ability to repair EVO ECU's. They stated to me that they do not work on them.

Here's their reply email to me:
So I guess the repair suggestion is out of question. (Insert Expletives here!)

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

I was very specific about what I wanted them to do. I told them that I did not want any before/after diagnostics, and I sent them a picture showing exactly what I wanted replaced. I also accepted their condition that they would not be responsible for any possible further damage to the ECU or whether or not the repair would even work. Sounds like my Evo ECU was the only one that they have worked on.

Raceghost

iTrader: (4)

MRFred, It was worth a try. I explained exactly what I wanted to, and she quickly replied back with a no. So then I asked if they were formerly DSMLink, and got the reply I typed above.

So now on to sourcing a used or new. I am considering both. The used avenue has been discussed a lot, I just have one issue. I have heard a lot about the EVO ECU being flashed to broke. Meaning it can only handle so many flashes. I know I flashed my current one at least 500 + times, in my learning and multiple tuning sessions during the last 8 years. Not sure on the validity of the ECU having a weakness in being flashed to much. Also, electronics do wear out. I am concerned about the replaceability going forward say 5 years down the road if a used ECU breaks down. Currently, there is only (2) New ECU's in the whole of the U.S. I've been told once they sale, one will have to source from Japan. However, I am told several parts for the EVO 8/9 are being discontinued and will not be available anymore unless aftermarket picks them up. I.E. the Fuel Injector Resistor Pack, and FUel Pump Resistor Pack, are both being disco'd. SO how the hell are we supposed to rebuild and support certain parts on the EVO if they are literally 86ing them all? Either way, still on the hunt.

mrfred

iTrader: (50)

The spec for the Renesas processor in our ECU is 100 flashes, but like you, I've flashed mine well over 500 times without issue. Aaron at English Racing said that he flashed his Evo more than 1000 times. My guess is that the average Evo has been reflashed maybe 100 times now. I have yet to hear of a malfunctioning ECU due to too many reflashes. I think you'll be fine with a junkyard ECU as long as its correct for your year Evo.

Raceghost

iTrader: (4)

Ok, so have the replacement ECM and am curious as to what I got. Thread here-->https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...4plug-ecu.html

I also picked up both the Fuel Pump resistor pack, and Fuel Injector Resistor Pack, as well as Relay 3. Just with ECM in and car started, ran it for 30 minutes and ran my voltage drop tests, and they still exist. I expected this. Either way, temperatures outside are colder now, under hood temperatures are a little less than middle of summer temperatures, but voltage drop at pump reflects accordingly. So I am still going with there is a heat sensitivity issue with the resistor packs under hood. I will report back with more info, once I do some resistance testing of current packs and replacement packs.

Raceghost

iTrader: (4)

Update: Installed new Relay/Resister Pack board in my car. This is the board that both Fuel/Injector resister packs and Relay 3 are mounted on. Yes of course all 3 components are used, but less mileage than my stock ones. Initial testing is good. Start up voltage was 12V. Low pressure voltage was 8.05, this is up .10v from previous. This is while car is cold. Let car run for 30 minutes. Ran log on EVOScan. At roughly 30 minutes, Intake Temps at MAF were back to 140F. LTFT Idle was at +0.05 roughly, and STFT was at -3.0 Fluctuation from -1.0 to -3.0. Voltage at pump was still down, but steady at 7.69V. On original fuel resistor pack, and relay 3, voltage after 30 minutes dropped to 7.2V, so this implementation of parts, did increase low voltage at pump by .5V. However, there is still a drop, related to heat. I am now going to play with heat reduction under the hood. Build custom aluminum shield around HKS Widemouth, and MAF sensor, to see if I can get intake temps down. I will also test to see if fuel trims and WOT fueling changes in relation to the change of injector resistor pack. I am hoping they do, and I can get Scaling and latencies better, or closer to the suggested data from the Scaling and Latency thread on here.

Be back with more data soon. Please feel free to comment or suggest things if you have anything to add, could use all points of info at this point.

Thanks,