Installed my sub and Amp and Now it Idles bad?
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Installed my sub and Amp and Now it Idles bad?
Hey, I have been lurking the site for a while, and I did an amp and sub install and now my idle is off. I unhooked the negative terminal and did the amp install everything looks hooked up right.
The only odd thing is that, when I first start it, it idles like a champ just like it did before, but now whenever I have been driving for a bit, it fluctuates between 200-600 whenever I put the clutch in, and has even died on me a few times.
The Car is a 2003 Lancer OZ rally 5 speed. The only mod I have is an Intake, and it has never done it before the install.
Any Ideas?
The only odd thing is that, when I first start it, it idles like a champ just like it did before, but now whenever I have been driving for a bit, it fluctuates between 200-600 whenever I put the clutch in, and has even died on me a few times.
The Car is a 2003 Lancer OZ rally 5 speed. The only mod I have is an Intake, and it has never done it before the install.
Any Ideas?
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Hey, I have been dealing with the same issues, I have a Jackhammer 600w RMS amp and a 10" Alpine 500w rms 1500w max. My car has a bad idle and sometimes after disengaging the clutch to stop the car stalls. I just did a HUGE project to change the battery to a yellow top and major wiring (the big 3). Immediately after the install the car it started up great and idled perfectly. BUT After driving around town bumpin mah trunk a little bit, I pulled into walmart to grab a few things and when I tried to park it stalled in nuetral. The car idles better but I think the alternator just can't handle the extra power draw. I have noticed an increase in performance with the better ground and power wires (and the extra battery juice). But I think the alternator just sucks. When i get the cash to swap it out with a high output one I will give some more feedback. But for now the problem still remains.
Although the idle still has a few issues (more rare now). the flashing headlight problem is gone . I have a volt gauge in my car as well as near the alt to read voltage for testing, etc. With the upgrade I noticed the needle drop less when the sub hits, but It will drop after excessive amounts of power drain. Anywho, I Have been trying to figure this out for months. good luck!
Although the idle still has a few issues (more rare now). the flashing headlight problem is gone . I have a volt gauge in my car as well as near the alt to read voltage for testing, etc. With the upgrade I noticed the needle drop less when the sub hits, but It will drop after excessive amounts of power drain. Anywho, I Have been trying to figure this out for months. good luck!
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You should probably do more research. Anyways, a capacitor won't help unless your having stall issues, where your amp is creating an electromagnetic field that hates everything in your car electrical. Hard to explain, but unless your pulling a lot of power, and have something to support that power, then a cap. won't help. I've tried. and failed epicly.
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Stock alternator output for lancers is 90 amps. I have found 140-200amp HO alternators on ebay . But who knows if they are good, i'm gonna try one of the 140amp HO alternators for a 02 OZ Rally soon.
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hey ive got an 800watt rms amp, running to my JL 10..... been there for 6 years.... interior lights kinda dim every now and then, but other than that i never have any issues.. and gain is almost all the way turned up on the amp....
Last edited by CoastieOZ; Aug 26, 2010 at 12:54 PM. Reason: accidently wrote 12 instead of 10
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