Thanks!

Got the Evo 8/9 spoiler on today. It was a direct fit if you have the OZ Rally stock wing. The sides turned out well, as did the insides, but the top turned out terrible. I'll be painting it again soon. Definitely happy. I'll be calling around to see what they can do about my crank too.

 

Bored tonight. I've been contemplating reinstalling the AC, Cruise, and Power steering for the last few days. I've decided to run everything and just have the Accord as my stripped (mechanically) fast vehicle (at least accessory wise). Running the AC hardlines wasn't too fun, and my bent up condenser was a beech to install, but after a few hours I got everything back in properly. Well, minus the PS high pressure line which was a lost cause from removal. Cleaned up all the pumps/reservoirs as well.

I will more than likely be laser cutting an aluminum cover with the words "OZ Rally" come September when school starts to cover up the ugly PS res and cruise control module.

Coming along!

 

If those come out nice I want covers saying OZ Rally too!

 

I just dislike those specific corners of any engine bay. If there isn't an air filter or a turbo pipe there its ugly! Well, unless its empty of course. I hate hate hate my ABS modulator on my Accord, same with the PS res. That's why once the Lancer is fixed and becomes my daily I'll be converting the Accord to a manual rack, full ABS delete, running a straight 3" exhaust out the fender, and deleting the brake booster

 

Getting sick and tired of the ugliness that is VHT nightshades and the plague that lies in my small town of everyone thinking its cool. I used DOT4 brake fluid and a blue scotch brite pad to remove the filth. The brake fluid will melt your paint so you have to remove the lights from the vehicle first, then get the pad wet, and scrub. It took me about 45 minutes to do both tails. But MAN was it worth it, now the color of the car is somewhat broken up and not ALL silver.

In other news, I got a few estimates from local yards that can order motors. Its going to run me about $400.00 for a complete motor so I'll be swapping all of my accessories over and doing that. $400.00 before it snows in November should be easy. Definitely excited.

 

I swear this looks like the oz that i was going to buy. I know it was around Elk River. I wanna say oak grove. I went to look at it but I didn't get it because of the misfire on cylinder 2. Love paint job you did on the engine its exactly how I wanted to do mine

 

It was for sale in that area awhile ago so I bet you did look at it. lol I have no idea why my friend bought it like this.

 

Not really an important update, but my custom stickers finally came.

 

Omg. Where did u get that??? I need that sticker!

 

I had it custom made by a long time buddy of mine who makes full vehicle graphics. lol

 

Damn it.. That is awesome.. I wish I could get one. It fits my car.. And driving style. Lol

 

The car will most likely be lifted, for certain it will have mud flaps and a custom removable bolton/boltoff light bar. I want the road to glow at night during the winter with all the deer I have around here. I'll be running four lamps on a relay getting power straight off the battery. Two straight ahead, two off to the sides. Most likely will be KC Hilites or similar.

No new updates, just waiting for SOMEONE to loan me $400 for a stupid motor, perhaps I may ask my boss for it (Autobody shop owner, definitely isn't poor and is a super cool guy). But 560cc Evo injectors on a boosted and tuned car doesn't get the best mileage as a daily. I want to drive my Lancer!

 

So what happened with the block you have? not salvageable?

 

More or less its just the price to re-machine the crank. Its going to be upwards of $150.00 for just the crank, and that's to do one journal. Then ~$70 for intake valves, ~$65 for exhaust valves, then I would run forged rods because I can get a full set for $200 and a single factory rod is $120.00. So just for the BASIC parts not counting the bearings is ~$485. I can get an entire engine for $400 with less than 20k on it.

The block is absolutely perfect, I would actually like to someday build and boost that motor. It still has the factory honing marks across all cylinders and the head/block deck has MINIMAL warping. Once I pay the motor and the turbo off for my Accord I'll I will slowly start building it back up starting with the block.

 

Did some research on a 4G64 swap, seems to be a limited number of said swap actually completely successfully so I said **** on it. There is one with less than 50k at my local yard so I thought I would look into it. While I was researching said swap I figured out you can leave the transmission in while removing the motor, so I reinstalled the transmission to prepare for my motor install. Everything went smoothly till I started to bleed the clutch, it began to spray fluid all over the floor from around the release bearing. Is this because the pressure plate isn't putting any pressure on it? I sure hope I don't have to replace it because the release bearing is still in good shape and they are ridiculously expensive. I also put the axles back in, but that's not pictured nor anything special.