Yeah exactly what I thought - I mean he did actually offer to tidy it up for me for a small fee!

I'll tidy it up myself thanks!

 

Or he was impressed with the work and had to protect his ego by criticizing little bs

 

at least he didnt criticise the wireing, i'm pleased about that. i'm quite proud of my wiring on that car, it looks very profetional and it's well consealed, even more so on the parts that dont look quite so profetional.

the guys at work, all being mechanics think (and i agree with them) that the idle issure could in part still be caused by me fudging around with the throttle body, we had 2 throttle bodys for that engine an RA one and a grandis one, i have no idea which is on at the moment, but they were both second hand and both needed cleaning and what i did was i took the butterfly valve off to clean it on the throttle body which is currently on the car i may not have alligned it quite right when i put it back on and that might be stopping it from closing all the way.

 

Hey solouku,

Is the Lancer Carisma the Mitsubishi that is built along side the Volvo S40?

 

Can anyone confirm that Carl swapping the throttle body's butterfly valve (the one that came on the engine) for a cleaner one from a used RA throttle body, could result in some sort of misalignment that could cause the unstable idle?

It also says in the shop manual not to losen the resin cover screws else unstable idle may occur. I think we removed that cover and painted it!

So what dya think? Likely candidate for the bouncing idle when moving with the clutch down?

If its a possibility or a likely event, we will look into it or I might even buy a new one.

 

This could be were you are getting an air leak.... causing the rev hunting etc the throttle body is not meant to be absolutely and fully sealed closed either.... I would deffinately look here for some answers

 

I took apart the throttle body of one of my old cars to clean it and replace the axis stem seals in it. I remember it being a bit of a pain to get it to close properly when I put the plate back in. I know it didn't work right the first time. I haven't had my RA's throttle body apart, but I'd imagine it's similar enough. Have a look at yours, you might just need to adjust the plate a little so it closes all the way.

 

Yeah that might cause some problems, more than usual hey? The throttle by wire sensor will say idle, but the throttle will be stuck open some, really effing up the ECU as to what's going on. That also could be why him tightening the cable stopped it happening, the TBW sensor then matches the throttle opening.

 

The car is now working perfectly. Idle is 700rpm when hot. No more revving.

Fix was simply adjusting the throttle plate screws, as it was not closing fully.

Anyhow.

JOB DONE.

 

Good Job . Now enjoy your ride.

 

Awesome to hear it works properly now.......video?

 

Congratulations Diavlo - job well done. Now enjoy one of the nicest N/A fours around. Cheers to Myszkewics for taking the time to help you out so much. I hope it keeps running well for you.

 

Im very greatful to Myszkewicz for helping out with some of the know-how and parts numbers - invaluable, and some of your ideas helped me solve issues I had!

One thing that seems to impress those who ride in my car is the sound. They cant believe its a straight-4... and it is very odd for a straight-4 to sound so good.

Anyhow, thanks everyone for reading!

It's been... fun!

My next mod will be Wilwood big brakes - because I've still got 4x114.3 bolt pattern that makes that simpler. Then in the summer I'll be after RRM's turbo kit.

Now I drive...

 

I was actually surprised at the sound myself.
You'll love it.

 

Happy to help. Happier now that it's done and working correctly.

Nice to be able to help from several thousand miles away.