Engine Swap Now in Progress - Photos!
Why not make a two-legged holder to clip onto your cable so it runs higher on the valve cover?
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I would also have a shorter throttle cable made. I bet a bicycle shop could do this for you, since it's the same kind of cable as on bike brakes.
I have found a fix, however I dont know how good this is - but it rids me of the revving problem.
I adjusted the throttle position sensor nut so the throttle is on a slight bit - that raises the revs enough to make me idle at about 1800rpm but not rev up and down when im stopping.
It's a high idle I know, but its far far better than the revving up and down - and for the first time tonight, I've been able to drive my car slowly without issues!
I did get a lot of air out of the coolant, and burped every hose I could find - nearly every one had trapped air, however that itself didnt seem to help the revving problem.
I have a question for Manual RA owners. Say you are at lights, brake is on, clutch is down. To start moving forward slowly, do you just lift the clutch up and the car will move forward and the more you lift the clutch up the more it will move off and not stall?
I ask this because if I did that in my 1.6 it would stall and not move one inch. Carl says this is a high torque engine and will move the car at idle torque.
I adjusted the throttle position sensor nut so the throttle is on a slight bit - that raises the revs enough to make me idle at about 1800rpm but not rev up and down when im stopping.
It's a high idle I know, but its far far better than the revving up and down - and for the first time tonight, I've been able to drive my car slowly without issues!
I did get a lot of air out of the coolant, and burped every hose I could find - nearly every one had trapped air, however that itself didnt seem to help the revving problem.
I have a question for Manual RA owners. Say you are at lights, brake is on, clutch is down. To start moving forward slowly, do you just lift the clutch up and the car will move forward and the more you lift the clutch up the more it will move off and not stall?
I ask this because if I did that in my 1.6 it would stall and not move one inch. Carl says this is a high torque engine and will move the car at idle torque.
Last edited by Diavlo; Dec 20, 2006 at 09:29 AM.
Excellent, well I'm happy with the car now. Those nuts on the TPS sort the problem.
What seemed to be happening before was when the clutch was down the revs dropped so low like 500rpm - then bounced up, then fell and this repeated.
By adjusting that nut, when the clutch is down the revs fall to a higher rpm, the more you adjust that nut, the less the revs fall when clutch is down... it seemed most stable by letting the rpms "fall" to about 2000rpm when clutch is down.
I'll get the evap emission system sorted soon, and get the two check engine codes gone.
Either way - as far as Im concerned now... Job is complete.
Car is AMAZING but ultra thirsty!
Well worth it for me to have the only 2.4 Lancer in Europe.
And to answer the question - YES engine swaps can be done on new lancers. If you know how - it is actually very easy. Get the parts and swap.
Its important to know what you are doing, as we wouldnt have had any problems if we had experience and knew exactly what to do.
What seemed to be happening before was when the clutch was down the revs dropped so low like 500rpm - then bounced up, then fell and this repeated.
By adjusting that nut, when the clutch is down the revs fall to a higher rpm, the more you adjust that nut, the less the revs fall when clutch is down... it seemed most stable by letting the rpms "fall" to about 2000rpm when clutch is down.
I'll get the evap emission system sorted soon, and get the two check engine codes gone.
Either way - as far as Im concerned now... Job is complete.
Car is AMAZING but ultra thirsty!
Well worth it for me to have the only 2.4 Lancer in Europe.
And to answer the question - YES engine swaps can be done on new lancers. If you know how - it is actually very easy. Get the parts and swap.
Its important to know what you are doing, as we wouldnt have had any problems if we had experience and knew exactly what to do.
You really need to get your fuel temp. and pressures sensores squared away, including all the evap stuff. All these things have everything to do with the drivability of your car. If any one of these things are not hooked up correctly it could cause the symptoms you are describing. I would also try and find the correct O2 sensor because it can cause some gremlins as well.
Good luck, you've come too far to give up.
Good luck, you've come too far to give up.
Excellent, well I'm happy with the car now. Those nuts on the TPS sort the problem.
What seemed to be happening before was when the clutch was down the revs dropped so low like 500rpm - then bounced up, then fell and this repeated.
By adjusting that nut, when the clutch is down the revs fall to a higher rpm, the more you adjust that nut, the less the revs fall when clutch is down... it seemed most stable by letting the rpms "fall" to about 2000rpm when clutch is down.
I'll get the evap emission system sorted soon, and get the two check engine codes gone.
Either way - as far as Im concerned now... Job is complete.
Car is AMAZING but ultra thirsty!
Well worth it for me to have the only 2.4 Lancer in Europe.
And to answer the question - YES engine swaps can be done on new lancers. If you know how - it is actually very easy. Get the parts and swap.
Its important to know what you are doing, as we wouldnt have had any problems if we had experience and knew exactly what to do.
What seemed to be happening before was when the clutch was down the revs dropped so low like 500rpm - then bounced up, then fell and this repeated.
By adjusting that nut, when the clutch is down the revs fall to a higher rpm, the more you adjust that nut, the less the revs fall when clutch is down... it seemed most stable by letting the rpms "fall" to about 2000rpm when clutch is down.
I'll get the evap emission system sorted soon, and get the two check engine codes gone.
Either way - as far as Im concerned now... Job is complete.
Car is AMAZING but ultra thirsty!
Well worth it for me to have the only 2.4 Lancer in Europe.
And to answer the question - YES engine swaps can be done on new lancers. If you know how - it is actually very easy. Get the parts and swap.
Its important to know what you are doing, as we wouldnt have had any problems if we had experience and knew exactly what to do.
Evolved Member
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: A
I have a question for Manual RA owners. Say you are at lights, brake is on, clutch is down. To start moving forward slowly, do you just lift the clutch up and the car will move forward and the more you lift the clutch up the more it will move off and not stall?
I ask this because if I did that in my 1.6 it would stall and not move one inch. Carl says this is a high torque engine and will move the car at idle torque.
I ask this because if I did that in my 1.6 it would stall and not move one inch. Carl says this is a high torque engine and will move the car at idle torque.
You can do that, I just rev to about 1300-1500 and first gear is so short the clutch is out within a second and I'm off. It actually takes longer if you try to do it at idle, you gotta be slow with the clutch.
I'll keep the 2000rpm idle for now until I've got the full Evap Emission system hooked up and the fuel temp sensor. Then I'll try to lower the idle. If I lower the idle now it bounces between 500rpm and 900rpm, the 2000rpm idle hasnt thrown codes yet.
I may be able to fine-tune it a bit to get it to idle as low as possible without bouncing the revs - that nut is really sensitive.
For now I can drive it without people thinking im angrily revving!
I may be able to fine-tune it a bit to get it to idle as low as possible without bouncing the revs - that nut is really sensitive.
For now I can drive it without people thinking im angrily revving!
I got the Magnaflow hi-flow cat installed today, and it takes away the instant acceleration I had.
Now I get normal acclereration with little noise, then you feel the pressure reach a certain level then your accelerating hard with noise!
The mechanic who fit it wasnt happy with my oil cooler - he said we needed 'P' clips on the oil hose to hold them to the engine, not simple hook-type clips. Fair enough! He also said oil filter should be after the cooler not before. I'll sort these in the next few weeks along with the other bits and bobs.
My brother has a 2004 2.0T Subaru WRX estate (sportback) and he actually thinks my car out acclerates it in 2nd gear!
I also want to make clear that my car idles at about 1000rpm if it were to have no throttle... But what I have done to rid myself of the revving problem when I put the clutch down is adjust the throttle nut on the TPS so that the throttle is on slightly at idle, pushing it to 2000rpm as if I have the throttle down slightly. Now when I put the clutch down instead of my revs falling to 500rpm and bouncing, they stay nice and even at 2000rpm. This solves the problem and even the mechanic didnt notice anything wrong when he drove it.
Now I get normal acclereration with little noise, then you feel the pressure reach a certain level then your accelerating hard with noise!
The mechanic who fit it wasnt happy with my oil cooler - he said we needed 'P' clips on the oil hose to hold them to the engine, not simple hook-type clips. Fair enough! He also said oil filter should be after the cooler not before. I'll sort these in the next few weeks along with the other bits and bobs.
My brother has a 2004 2.0T Subaru WRX estate (sportback) and he actually thinks my car out acclerates it in 2nd gear!
I also want to make clear that my car idles at about 1000rpm if it were to have no throttle... But what I have done to rid myself of the revving problem when I put the clutch down is adjust the throttle nut on the TPS so that the throttle is on slightly at idle, pushing it to 2000rpm as if I have the throttle down slightly. Now when I put the clutch down instead of my revs falling to 500rpm and bouncing, they stay nice and even at 2000rpm. This solves the problem and even the mechanic didnt notice anything wrong when he drove it.
Last edited by Diavlo; Dec 21, 2006 at 12:16 PM.
The filter normally gets fresh, hot oil straight out of the oil pump.
He said encase something breaks off in the cooler the filter will catch in.
Anyhow I wasnt best pleased with him as he was pretty much saying our work was lousy whilst comparing it to his own work lol. It was generally things like - using different style bolts like allen head on certain things, and using the wrong types of clips, he had a problem with the length of the sway bar bolts as they protuded a bit.
The oil cooler as far as I can tell works well, but Im not sure if it is overcooling the oil.
The before cooler temp gauge tends to read 170F and when I push it the temp goes above 200F to about 240F. Oil is best at 170F so I hear, or so the cooler manual says.
My after gauge starts at 140F and rarely moves above that value - the return hose to the engine is always extremely hot though.
I've bought a new temp gauge that starts at zero, so I can see better what it is doing to the oil temp.
Anyhow I wasnt best pleased with him as he was pretty much saying our work was lousy whilst comparing it to his own work lol. It was generally things like - using different style bolts like allen head on certain things, and using the wrong types of clips, he had a problem with the length of the sway bar bolts as they protuded a bit.
The oil cooler as far as I can tell works well, but Im not sure if it is overcooling the oil.
The before cooler temp gauge tends to read 170F and when I push it the temp goes above 200F to about 240F. Oil is best at 170F so I hear, or so the cooler manual says.
My after gauge starts at 140F and rarely moves above that value - the return hose to the engine is always extremely hot though.
I've bought a new temp gauge that starts at zero, so I can see better what it is doing to the oil temp.
The cooler is just a tube (or tubes) with fins attached to the outside of it, right? How many parts are going to break off the inside of a tube? I still don't think it matters.
He's probably just mad that you guys did it yourselves instead of paying him to do it, so he's nitpicking sh*t wherever he can. Protruding bolts? Please.
He's probably just mad that you guys did it yourselves instead of paying him to do it, so he's nitpicking sh*t wherever he can. Protruding bolts? Please.