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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

I installed my RPW header

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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 09:41 PM
  #16  
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From: Northglenn, CO
Originally Posted by Mitsiman
Fantastic to see and photos look great.

Already spoken with our header manafacturer and we are making bascially a replica of your extra pipe section, so that our systems will be 100% compatible with all RA vehicles.

Glad to hear you like the torque improvement as well, especially on the auto model and best of all

NO CEL LIGHT - yay

Thanks for the feedback and as said, all future models will be including a O2 Sensor fitting in the secondary position, and the extra joiner pipe if necessary. Just need to narrow down the model which requires this extra length on the pipe.

And for those wanting a header package themselves, we have plenty in stock, although they are selling fast but we are currently keeping our production priorities high to ensure we retain stock. I also am now stockign 5 units at a time pre coated in silver for those wanting coated sets.
Yeah, I made sure that I got pictures and exact measurments for the extension pipe because I know you want to fix this for all future buyers. It sure was a loud trip to the shop, especially since I past 3 cops on my 2 mile drive! It was actually kind of fun to watch people stare!

Oh yeah, the torque imporvements are great. I can really feel them at about half throttle because the car really wants to now instead of just down shifting to do it.

I have a few suggestions on stuff to add to make this a complete kit beyond the extension pipe. For my car, with the extension, I needed 6 bolts, 6 nuts, 2 gaskets, and the plug like you mentioned on top of the gasket and 2 bolts and nuts that were included. Also, I used the plug on the O2 bung that is located on the header itself because I had to use the one on the cat for the pre-cat sensor.

Anyway, thanks for the great product and I'm going to schedule an after header dyno this week so that I can post my before and after results. I'm sure they will show good improvements. I just wish I could get lower RPM readings on the auto but what can a guy do?
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 11:08 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Ralliart50
Well, I was hoping that I could just take out the two fans and it would just slide right down but no matter which way I tried to drop it in it just wasn't going to fit. I even tried to stuff it up from the bottom and the only way it would have gone that way is if I removed an A/C line which would require the machine to decharge and then recharge the A/C. Once I removed the radiator I still had to angle it in there because of the condeser but it went in pretty easy. So, in short, there just wasn't enough room to drop it in with the radiator still there. Oh, I know that you were saying that you were going to have a shop do this for you because of the extra piece needed but my shop quoted me $200 and that didn't count removing the radiator. Just a fore warning on that.

I thought about bolting it up and driving it to the shop but it's about 15 kms away. I'd rather pay them to just install the whole thing, I really hate paying to have something done that i'm capable of doing myself

Maybe my car being manual I might have more room to get it down there?

I found a plug today,decided after looking for oxygen sensor plugs that I'd have to settle for a drain plug, so anyone else if RPW doesn't send a plug it is a 18MMx1.5.


I've got an appointment for thursday. I hope this won't be super loud with my RRM axleback, I did buy it with the HF cat maybe that will keep it quieter than my DP was . BTW mine has the 44mm tubes I guess because it's manual .

I'm really missing the downpipe though there was a whole lot of power up high that is now gone I honestly didn't think it was that big of a difference but it is.
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 12:58 AM
  #18  
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Future kits will come with multiple O2 sensor fittings, but they won't be drilled so that people can drill the specific ones they need for there application making the units suitable for both australia and USA vehicles.

Glad to hear, that everything is working out well and look forward to seing both your results.

Yes unfortnatly due to the extra long length of our pipes, radiator out is the only way you can get enough room to fit the pipes in. Thankfully very easy to take the radiator out and once its out, it cuts the time down on the rest of the installation.,
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Old Aug 21, 2006 | 06:04 AM
  #19  
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I don't think being manual or auto will make a difference on if you have to remove the radiator or not because it's not the tranny that's in the way. It is really easy to do though so it's not that big of a deal. I also used a radiator drain plug for the extra O2 sensor. It worked out very well.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 09:51 PM
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Well I got it installed, looks really nice in there. I havn't given it much of a test yet since I was in rush hour traffic on my way home. I will give it a test tomorrow.

Here is a picture of the finished look.

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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 10:55 PM
  #21  
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From: Perth, Western Australia
looks very nice glad to hear its up and running.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 11:33 PM
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What is that connected to the radiator hose?
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 11:59 PM
  #23  
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that looks so nice... I am so envious as that was what mine would of/could of looked like.... keep us posted as to how it feels and sounds... thankfully with you having the intake you will feel so much more top end
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 05:31 AM
  #24  
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From: Northglenn, CO
Looking good! Did you have the shop do the entire install? I still haven't had a CEL come up on mine with over 300 miles (almost 500 klm) of driving so that shouldn't be an issue for you. Let us know how you like the power gains. You got the larger diameter extractor tubes right?
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 05:29 PM
  #25  
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ralliart04: the thing connected to my rad hose is my water temp sensor.


I did have the shop do all the work. No CEL yet, although my shop didn't like the CATCO cat. they have had trouble with them years ago(doesn't mean it's not good though). The power is about the same as it was with my RRM downpipe w/o cat. I think most of the gain is taking out that kinked stock downpipe. So top end is really nice, with the piggyback it really screams from 3500 up. I do have the larger diameter tubes. RPW

PS exhaust noise is louder but it isn't raspy annoying. So RRM axleback is good with this setup if anyone is wondering.
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 05:38 PM
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Is the piggy back you are using still on the old tune that was for the stock manifold? IF it is you want to definitly retune it cause the dynamics of the headers etc will require different tuning for maximun results.
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 06:51 PM
  #27  
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From: Puerto Rico
^+1
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 07:27 PM
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I wouldn't know where to start tuning. When you say "definitly " is there something I should know?????? I just spent a **** load of money on this. I can't afford expensive dyno and tuning.
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 08:56 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by AdamRA
I wouldn't know where to start tuning. When you say "definitly " is there something I should know?????? I just spent a **** load of money on this. I can't afford expensive dyno and tuning.
It is not something that you should or should not know it is more like, to get the very best out of the Headers that a retune will be off benifit...

can you disconnect the RRM piggy back would be interesting to see if there would be a noticeable difference between having it on or having it off
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Old Aug 25, 2006 | 09:27 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by chowetime
It is not something that you should or should not know it is more like, to get the very best out of the Headers that a retune will be off benifit...

can you disconnect the RRM piggy back would be interesting to see if there would be a noticeable difference between having it on or having it off
I could but I would rather not for now, Maybe once I save some money up i'll get to a dyno but ofr now i'll live with what I've got. I figured the more mods the better with the piggyback at least thats what RRM has been saying......
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