I would recomend anyone with the RRM piggy to do a dyno tune as the base maps they sent are way off as I saw in one sample here in PR air fuel ratios in the 16's too lean..

 

Is that version 1 piggy though? Because I think they have changed it since.

 

ohh 16 is very lean... we do know that when adding the headers that it did reduce fuel consumption but not in a bad way, it was more of a case of evening it out due to the factory tune is always tuned on the rich side... maybe disconnect your RRM till you have the few dollars to get it retuned or at least put the car on a dyno and see what the fuel air ratios are now like... just to be safe

 

Should I buy a kit like like this. http://www.zeitronix.com/order/order.htmzt-2

I would kind of like to learn how to do this myself. Can anyone point me in the right direction to get some info.



Also does anyone know how to disconnect the RRM piggyback without removing all of the wires?????? Can I reconnect the MAS wire and be fine? (in case I want to go back to the piggyback)

 

they are asking a lot of money for what a simple $40 air flow gauge will tell you... first off is it suitable or compatable with your car... if you are really that concerned I would seriously suggest get a dyno check this should only cost you $40 then if you are not happy with what the air fuel ratios are then remove the RRM p/b sell it then buy the new RPW/Haltech Miniceptor which will be available in the next two weeks

 

Why would I buy the haltech....when the rrm piggyback does the exact same thing? Not too mention the haltech is $951

 

Actually the new Miniceptor which is due to be released in the next week or so is going to be $500... David from RPW will be able to explain in more detail about what this ECU piggy back can do I am not 100% sure on all of it's features but it has the same features as the interceptor... I think one of the key features is dual mapping so you can have your everyday driving map and another map for running with Nitrous or whatever other fuel type...

 

The Interceptor / Miniceptor does both Fuel and Ignition mapping, as well as duel mapping and will be currently the only piggy back system that can do that on the RA Lancer.

But the origonal question still stands - if you have a RRM Piggy back with a header upgrade, I recomend you remove it, and then only refit it after it has been checked on a dyno because if it is already leaning out the vehicle fuel curves, then fitment of the headers will lean the vehicle out further, and can possibly damage the engine.

Don't go cheap and try to do it yourself, it doesn't cost a lot to do a simple dyno run, without tuning to check your air/fuel ratios. And also check them in a cruise situation as well say around 80 and 100km/hr not just on power. If they ratio's are fine, then leave the piggy back on, if they are not then either retune or remove until you can afford to have it retuned. Simple as that.

 

I'm getting CEL now. I'm waiting for my scanner to come in, so i'll let everyone know if we can still get CEL from this system (I'm almost positive this is what it is)

Even with a high flow cat the CEL can still come on ( I wish I knew that earlier now i'm in the same predicment as I was with the RRM downpipe only now I sound better)

I'll keep you informed as to what the code is.

 

Check the wiring on the rear O2 sensor. If your exhaust has got a lot of movement, then the wiring on the rear O2 sensor gets stretched and will lead to a CEL light. There is not a lot of flex existing in the stock wiring and it doesn't take a lot of movement to make the wire get stretched and cause the rear O2 sensor to fail.

 

I have the RRM downpipe and High flow cat, never had a cel. I am unsure as to why so many of you are having problems. Did any of you have trouble removing your o2 sensor?

 

I never really said that it was for sure the system I'm more inclined to believe it could be what Mitsiman said since I had no issues until after Monday (track day on a road course ) It never happened at the track or on the way home but the next day just driving normally to work.

Nothing can throw you into panic mode more than driving your car at the track and the next day getting a CEL


When I first installed my RRM downpipe some asshat told me to cut the wires on the 02 Sensor first one....could be that or it could be that the second 02 sensor has been damaged or wrecked from the exhaust swinging. Either way I'll get it solved soon. This is also a key factor as to why I prefer to do my own work on my car, I think the young kid at the shop did my install I'm sure he probably twisted the **** out of the sensor wire.

Update:

I just went out and check over some obvious stuff that may have been jolted a bit since I was doing some hard cornering. The intake pipe right at the throttle body was fairly loose, so I tore it all down and re-installed it all now it is much more solid. I don't know how sensitive the IM/TB is but it may have sensed that unfiltered air was coming in ?

 

The air has to pass by the maf sensor, if it doesn't the whole air flow system will be out of wack. It probably through a code about being too lean because it wasn't measuring all the air going into the system, but was measuring it after the fact in the exhaust stream. maf said one thing, so the car sent x amount of fuel. there was more air than what the ecu thought, so the reading on the first o2 sensor was off from ideal, as was the second sensor reading.

That is if you had unmeasured air coming in. If it was a little loose that may not be the case, if it was about to fall off you can bet it had something to do with it.

I also do not trust anyone with my car. Too bad you cut the wires on the o2 sensor though. did you solder them back together? by trouble I meant did you possibly damage the sensor, but it sounds as if you should reset the ECU and wait to see if the issue comes back. One thing at a time. Also, pull that code and make sure it was a system too lean code just to be sure. It should stay in the ECU memory until you actual delete it with the scanner.

 

Well it wasn't the intake being loose.....CEL went on again this morning on the way to work.

Has to be something in the emmisions area since the car is still very driveable(sP).

 

Well, mine went on the other day too if it makes you feel any better. I wasn't going to post it up until I pulled the code but between getting my window replaced and school starting up for me again this week my schedule has been too full for me to check on it. The car still drives like a champ though so I'm not worried about causing any damage. I'm hoping I can get to it either tomorrow or this weekend sometime. I'll let everyone know what the outcome is on it.