Cylinder Head project !!!
The smt-6 has more options, more inputs, and more outputs. It is cheaper also. there is a reason for all this. you say you can get it tuned? are you sure? the perfect-power units are even less widely known about than the split second units and I couldn't find a local tuner who had used the split second software. the smt-6 software is much more complicated than the SS R4 software too. you have to be ready to tackle a project such as this before you decide. the SS piggy will be simple to install, the smt-6 will be complicated. you need to know a lot about the sensors and what the signals look like to install the SMT-6, you just wire up the SS unit and it's ready.
no, the signal types and voltages are your problem, especially off Ebay
there is a setup map somewhere in here also, though I am not sure if it's correct or not. I am installing mine this weekend, the replacement came yesterday in the mail. I will post up a DIY(as always) shortly after I finish.
there is a setup map somewhere in here also, though I am not sure if it's correct or not. I am installing mine this weekend, the replacement came yesterday in the mail. I will post up a DIY(as always) shortly after I finish.
looking forward to reading your writeup on that, and your impressions about it in general.
no, the signal types and voltages are your problem, especially off Ebay there is a setup map somewhere in here also, though I am not sure if it's correct or not. I am installing mine this weekend, the replacement came yesterday in the mail. I will post up a DIY(as always) shortly after I finish.
there is a setup map somewhere in here also, though I am not sure if it's correct or not. I am installing mine this weekend, the replacement came yesterday in the mail. I will post up a DIY(as always) shortly after I finish.Ok, I could be really off here but I thought migue went much bigger than stock gasket size match on the intake AND exhaust ports. Is that not the case? It's hard to tell now that the pics arent working but I was almost certain that was the case.
Dan, I know your cylinder head is near complete, did you gasket match the stock gasket or get a custom gasket made? I'd rather not have custom gaskets made if it can be helped. Previously, you mentioned that there was still approx 1/8 inch around that could be taken from the intake ports for a stock gasket match, is this what you ended up doing? Also, you had mentioned you were going to try to port it yourself. Did you go that route or take it to a machine shop? I realize we've gone over some of this before but I just really like to make sure I've got my bases covered. My cylinder head goes in to the machine shop here in about a week and a half, I just want to make sure that I'm planning ahead properly. I'd really just prefer to match the stock gaskets, but if I remember migues pictures at all, they were much larger than stock gasket.
Also - Migue! How you doin back in PR man? Are things well?
Last edited by boozeup&riot; Aug 8, 2007 at 11:31 AM.
no, the signal types and voltages are your problem, especially off Ebay there is a setup map somewhere in here also, though I am not sure if it's correct or not. I am installing mine this weekend, the replacement came yesterday in the mail. I will post up a DIY(as always) shortly after I finish.
there is a setup map somewhere in here also, though I am not sure if it's correct or not. I am installing mine this weekend, the replacement came yesterday in the mail. I will post up a DIY(as always) shortly after I finish.Can you add colorful pictures and arrows in your write-up?......and flashing lights, too!
Maybe a couple of hot models just to point at stuff!
EDIT:
REMEMBER THIS IS A CYL HEAD PROJECT so everything such as INJECTORS PIGGY THROTTLE BODY LOWER END AND OTHER MODS SHOULD BE DISCUSSED IN ANOTHER THREAD.... LETS CONCENTRATE IN THE CYL HEAD ONLY.....
Last edited by gjgfrombigd; Aug 8, 2007 at 11:54 AM.
There are two things I need to clear up what did he mean by the combustion chamber contouring? and whats exactly done to make it a race angle valve job? The pics arent working on my comp either
I think the pics broke awhile ago. I will try and answer some questions for you guys though. I have taken pics of all kinds of stuff, including the inside of the ports, and this will be much easier to see when you are looking at your own head or my pics in the DIY writeup (coming eventually)
from my understaning of it, the angles on the valves and head meet together a certain way stock, probably for ease of casting and machining, and a three way or five way grind can be applied assisting airflow and valve seating. it just changes how everything meets up when the valves are closed and assists in starting and promoting airflow when they are open.
combustion chamber work is very complex, and you need to pretty much send it to a professional head shop (not the kind that sells bongs either) with the proper equipment. I did, however, grind a little nub out of each chamber. not sure what they were for, but my flow characterisics will change drastically with FI anyway so they won't matter. basically, you don't want any sharp edges of any kind in the combustion chamber. heat is attracted to protrusions and you don't need a second "spark plug" to cause premature ignition.
the whole point of the P&P is to increase the flow of the head. it involves much more than just making the hole bigger. I am keeping the stock gaskets, as they are reasonably priced and I'm not building an NA like Migue is. I am not sure if he is going bigger than stock, but it's not necessary, just an option for more porting. you can only port it as much as the coolant and oil journals allow anyway. the intake side is much more important than the exhaust side. on the intake side the port is kind of level and then dips toward the valve. you can increase the slope by grinding out some of the level part. once you match it to the gasket you still have tons of work to get over the "hump" on the intake side. you can also widen the port a little; as you go back toward the valves it increases in size much more than right at the mouth, so get rid of a little of this extra material too. a good porter will look at this head and see much more than me, but that's what I am doing. The exhaust side is as simple as widening the ports a little, and take a good look at 1 and 4, as they have obvious flow restriction because the exhaust ports are closer together than the intake ports. your exhaust ports are much less important than your intake ports, expecially in a NA application, because the intake air is being pulled in (or pushed by an air pump) and the exhaust is being forced out by the combustion in another chamber and the physical force of the piston itself. much more efficient than the intake side.
If you try and match the exhaust side to the gasket you will almost definitely run into one of the coolant journals, as the exhaust side requires much more cooling than the intake side. If you are DIY'ing the head just remember, everything you do is better than stock, so why take the chance? give it another 1/8, or 3/16 and call it a day. If the porter comes up with more, so what? He does it for a living and could likely eat the cost if he did screw up badly enough to damage the head, and while it's pretty cheap to get a head you don't want to waste your time.
I hope this clears a few things up, let me know if you have any more questions. I will do my best to answer them
from my understaning of it, the angles on the valves and head meet together a certain way stock, probably for ease of casting and machining, and a three way or five way grind can be applied assisting airflow and valve seating. it just changes how everything meets up when the valves are closed and assists in starting and promoting airflow when they are open.
combustion chamber work is very complex, and you need to pretty much send it to a professional head shop (not the kind that sells bongs either) with the proper equipment. I did, however, grind a little nub out of each chamber. not sure what they were for, but my flow characterisics will change drastically with FI anyway so they won't matter. basically, you don't want any sharp edges of any kind in the combustion chamber. heat is attracted to protrusions and you don't need a second "spark plug" to cause premature ignition.
the whole point of the P&P is to increase the flow of the head. it involves much more than just making the hole bigger. I am keeping the stock gaskets, as they are reasonably priced and I'm not building an NA like Migue is. I am not sure if he is going bigger than stock, but it's not necessary, just an option for more porting. you can only port it as much as the coolant and oil journals allow anyway. the intake side is much more important than the exhaust side. on the intake side the port is kind of level and then dips toward the valve. you can increase the slope by grinding out some of the level part. once you match it to the gasket you still have tons of work to get over the "hump" on the intake side. you can also widen the port a little; as you go back toward the valves it increases in size much more than right at the mouth, so get rid of a little of this extra material too. a good porter will look at this head and see much more than me, but that's what I am doing. The exhaust side is as simple as widening the ports a little, and take a good look at 1 and 4, as they have obvious flow restriction because the exhaust ports are closer together than the intake ports. your exhaust ports are much less important than your intake ports, expecially in a NA application, because the intake air is being pulled in (or pushed by an air pump) and the exhaust is being forced out by the combustion in another chamber and the physical force of the piston itself. much more efficient than the intake side.
If you try and match the exhaust side to the gasket you will almost definitely run into one of the coolant journals, as the exhaust side requires much more cooling than the intake side. If you are DIY'ing the head just remember, everything you do is better than stock, so why take the chance? give it another 1/8, or 3/16 and call it a day. If the porter comes up with more, so what? He does it for a living and could likely eat the cost if he did screw up badly enough to damage the head, and while it's pretty cheap to get a head you don't want to waste your time.
I hope this clears a few things up, let me know if you have any more questions. I will do my best to answer them
Dan what shop di you use for your head? And about how much pm me with the details and a number. Also Orlando whenever you get back on here can you send me the information to the guy you sent yours to?
I did(am doing) it myself, on my back porch. I don't give my number out publicly either
It was free, aside from the cost of the head that came with camshaft and valvetrain installed. The cam was 100+shipping to have a turbo grind put on the mivec lobe. Increased duration and lift, and a little decrease in overlap. the head, camshaft, port and polish, IM and all tools to do the port and polish probably cost me less than $600 so far, I need to get a few more grinding stones today though.
It was free, aside from the cost of the head that came with camshaft and valvetrain installed. The cam was 100+shipping to have a turbo grind put on the mivec lobe. Increased duration and lift, and a little decrease in overlap. the head, camshaft, port and polish, IM and all tools to do the port and polish probably cost me less than $600 so far, I need to get a few more grinding stones today though.
Mitsubeastin,
out here in utah there are two shops I considered. I group called RPMMachine (who has a website@ www.rpmmachine.com) the other was a group called "Pro Machine." Basically, Pro machine has done about a billion Honda heads out here and some of the more reputable tuners strongly suggested I use Pro Machine. They have no website but they do have a phone number and not only were they incredibly helpful, but they already have another 4g69 head in there already. THey will be doing my cylinder head valve job and cleanup, as well as the PnP. I'm basically just waiting to hear back from Migue and Dan on how their cams went. As soon as I know that, I'll know nearly everything I'll need to know about what I need to do for my particular application. If you are in Utah, or just wouldn't mind shipping your head, PM for Pro machine's number if interested.
out here in utah there are two shops I considered. I group called RPMMachine (who has a website@ www.rpmmachine.com) the other was a group called "Pro Machine." Basically, Pro machine has done about a billion Honda heads out here and some of the more reputable tuners strongly suggested I use Pro Machine. They have no website but they do have a phone number and not only were they incredibly helpful, but they already have another 4g69 head in there already. THey will be doing my cylinder head valve job and cleanup, as well as the PnP. I'm basically just waiting to hear back from Migue and Dan on how their cams went. As soon as I know that, I'll know nearly everything I'll need to know about what I need to do for my particular application. If you are in Utah, or just wouldn't mind shipping your head, PM for Pro machine's number if interested.
I also wanted to add that both Dan and Migue have been a HUGE help and an incredible resource for n00bs like me and they deserve some credit here. Thanks to both of you guys for making helping us an interest!
check out the place I got my cam from, american custom cam. he says he does the mivec cams all the time
and has been doing them for a little over a year. very quick turnaround and very good price. He had it for less than a week, and said he has done both turbo and NA profiles.
and has been doing them for a little over a year. very quick turnaround and very good price. He had it for less than a week, and said he has done both turbo and NA profiles.
Is that www.americancustomcam.com?
Last edited by gjgfrombigd; Aug 13, 2007 at 12:10 PM.