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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

Ordering RRM Stage 3 Clutch..

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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 02:51 PM
  #31  
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
well I've had the clutch in since mid January and the slave went limp on me today. I didn't start hearing that flywheel noise until maybe two weeks ago. But i'll tell you what, it makes the car sound like a piece of ****. I'm calling the shop tomorrow, I'm sure it won't be a big deal to fix just annoying as hell since I just got the new clutch. I kinda wish I had a better flywheel now 2!
But alright, i'll let you know what happens .
Originally Posted by DangerousDan
how long before your slave cylinder crapped out? another one bites the dust with an aftermarket clutch
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 02:53 PM
  #32  
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
D4MN Kreepa I guess I can't say you didn't WARN ME!!
Originally Posted by KreepaEvoX
Yeah, U will have to learn to feather the clutch to get anything close to a normal set off, but it aint that hard.....once u get used to it.... Be sure to get the modulator eraser or to gut the modulator... cuz it will feel kinda gummy at the pedal if U leave it as is.

It will feel heavy ( the pedal ) for about a week or so, after that its a breeze. Also, be on the lookout for a new clutch master cylinder cuz one day it can leave u without pressure.... it will give u signs before failure and it takes quite some time before it fails completely. Take periodical turns in bleeding the clutch system too, it will make the master/slave last a lot longer

Sorry for the long post, but didnt want to leave anything I had on my head
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 02:53 PM
  #33  
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haha i've had my clutch in for less than 4 months now. I also had a new slave installed, i hope my master doesn't go. I actually have the old slave and clutch in my basement... haha
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 04:27 PM
  #34  
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From: Ponce P.R.
Originally Posted by bruce988jl
I actually have the old slave and clutch in my basement... haha

Before, if it ever, goes, try that thing I said a couple of posts back, with a more durable/heavy duty o-ring
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 06:47 PM
  #35  
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also doesnt a stainless clutch line eliminate athe slave and put less wear on the master. From what I have read.
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 07:29 PM
  #36  
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From: Halli Wood
Originally Posted by BLQ-PURL
well I've had the clutch in since mid January and the slave went limp on me today. I didn't start hearing that flywheel noise until maybe two weeks ago. But i'll tell you what, it makes the car sound like a piece of ****. I'm calling the shop tomorrow, I'm sure it won't be a big deal to fix just annoying as hell since I just got the new clutch. I kinda wish I had a better flywheel now 2!
But alright, i'll let you know what happens .



is the sound loud enough to record it and post it on youtube?, maybe we can help you, but I think its just the sound that those type of clutches make

that the clutch telling you he's eating your flywheel and pressure plate, that is the problem with those, but dont worry , if its the sound it think it is, its normal, nothing to worry about, and theres no way to eliminate it (except than changing the clutch)

And about the DEAD clutch "pumps" or what ever you call it, thats because of your ACT pressure plate, If you go with a Clutch master (stg 1,2,3,4 or what ever) it wont happend. The ACT plates are too agresive, they usually modified the stock plate and that converts it into an assasin to your foot and to whatever stands in its way . The good thing is that your clutch its supposed to dont slip no matter what, hehe

Last edited by egk-69; Mar 5, 2008 at 07:32 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 08:10 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Mr.B
also doesnt a stainless clutch line eliminate athe slave and put less wear on the master. From what I have read.
I was told that it was a necessity with an aftermarket clutch.
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 04:38 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by AdamRA
I was told that it was a necessity with an aftermarket clutch.

I don't see how that would be the case, unless you are referring to replacing the rubber line instead of the solid line.
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 05:34 AM
  #39  
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Just that there are alot of post about clutchs here and everyone is saying that you need a braided clutch line to run directly from the master to the clutch thus eliminating the slave and it somehow puts less were on the master, "with out this kiss your master goodbye" or something like that it was.
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 11:48 AM
  #40  
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Ok, called the shop, slave cylinder is toast. They say they want $90 for the new slave cylinder, $6 for brake fluid, $80 to exchange/bleed, and $60 tow truck. So about $250. How hard could it be to install a new slave cylinder and bleed the brake fluid?? I need my car back ASAP cuz I have to be back at VTech by Monday!
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 11:59 AM
  #41  
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well, how bad do you need the car. I say replace the slave cylinder and get braided lines to replace both the hard and rubber line. From what i hear the "restrictor" unit on the hardline isn't very good for aftermarket clutches that depend on a on or off and no medium grip point.... I have the upper line and am waiting to buy the lower line from RRM so i can replace both when i flush my system.
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 12:49 PM
  #42  
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From: Halli Wood
well depending how good and how much experience you have . If you have no clue, well, pay to them, If you have time and at least know the basics, go for it

change it its definetly easier than finding the $250 bucks they want.
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 01:05 PM
  #43  
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
alright, I called a dealership where I live and they have the part in stock so I'm gonna drop off the cylinder to the shop tomorrow morning and they'll go ahead and have it done for me tomorrow. I think I've spent about 45 minutes on the phone going back and forth with my dad, the shop and the dealer! What's this stainless steel clutchline RRM is selling on their site? Would that benefit my situation at all? I just don't want any more clutch problems !! lol
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 01:30 PM
  #44  
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From: Ponce P.R.
Originally Posted by egk-69
well depending how good and how much experience you have . If you have no clue, well, pay to them, If you have time and at least know the basics, go for it

change it its definetly easier than finding the $250 bucks they want.
I paid just for a box of beer ( Doble) from the base and 108 for the master itself....brake fluid I always have around as well as other fluids. Half hour of BSing while changing them and half more taking turns pumping and bleeding the line.

Lol next time Im thinking trying an Evo Master and slave
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 02:11 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by bruce988jl
well, how bad do you need the car. I say replace the slave cylinder and get braided lines to replace both the hard and rubber line. From what i hear the "restrictor" unit on the hardline isn't very good for aftermarket clutches that depend on a on or off and no medium grip point.... I have the upper line and am waiting to buy the lower line from RRM so i can replace both when i flush my system.
there is a diy on here to easily remove the modulator in the hard line. free and the same effect as the braided line

Originally Posted by you there
Just that there are alot of post about clutchs here and everyone is saying that you need a braided clutch line to run directly from the master to the clutch thus eliminating the slave and it somehow puts less were on the master, "with out this kiss your master goodbye" or something like that it was.
say what? who and where are those posts? link please...?

wouldn't hooking the clutch to the master be like have and automatic of sorts? you push the brake in the clutch dis engages let go of the brake and give it a little gas... voila, manual automatic
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