Ordering RRM Stage 3 Clutch..
Evolving Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 162
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From: Saskatchewan
after further reading, it is the slave restrictor that it eliminates not the slave itself, either way the post still say you really really should us the braided cluch line or just use the DIY on removing the guts of the restrictor. IT will save the life of both the slave and master. sorry for the miss leading post.
it's cool, that makes much more sense.
the braided line costs money, but looks good. the stock line, with the modulator removed, is the same (or better, it is a hard line after all) as the braided line and looks stock
the braided line costs money, but looks good. the stock line, with the modulator removed, is the same (or better, it is a hard line after all) as the braided line and looks stock
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Fredericksburg, VA
well the new slave was put in today and everything seems to be running good. I asked the mechanic what was wrong with the old one and he showed it to me. There was a little black rubber o-ring inside the slave that pops out under the spring and that began to leak... so I guess if anyone ever has problems with their slave cylinders to actually do what Kreepa said! Replace the stock with a higher psi threshold. But anyway, thanks for all the tips during all this. I'll be hoping I don't have anymore clutch problems for another.....uhhh LONG TIME 
that's for you kreepa
that's for you kreepaThe sound u hear is the bronze particles against the flywheel, if you had an all bronze setup like I do, it would be happening every day
Told U about the master, take time to bleed it once every 2 weeks, or if u are a car freak like us, do it every weekend as u step into your garage with beer in hand, never fails....it will make it last longer
heres a tip, If you dont want to be changing masters all the time, take out the master, it has a plate in the side with 4 little bolts, take them out, secure the little paper gasket when u take the plate. There's a circular plate, try to beat that area against your hand a bit and it will separate. You will find an O-ring, flat type. Take it to a shop and get the same O-ring but with a higher psi spec( so it will withstand more pressure) and replace. Most times, thats the part which gives in the master.....you will know cuz there will be little pieces of rubber around the O-ring. If u can do this(I have not yet done this) U will save a bundle on your masters insurance....meh
Told U about the master, take time to bleed it once every 2 weeks, or if u are a car freak like us, do it every weekend as u step into your garage with beer in hand, never fails....it will make it last longer
heres a tip, If you dont want to be changing masters all the time, take out the master, it has a plate in the side with 4 little bolts, take them out, secure the little paper gasket when u take the plate. There's a circular plate, try to beat that area against your hand a bit and it will separate. You will find an O-ring, flat type. Take it to a shop and get the same O-ring but with a higher psi spec( so it will withstand more pressure) and replace. Most times, thats the part which gives in the master.....you will know cuz there will be little pieces of rubber around the O-ring. If u can do this(I have not yet done this) U will save a bundle on your masters insurance....meh
