From what I've seen the bottomends and heads are the same.....

 

does that only count for 2004-2006 models? or for all years?

 

Any US version 4g69.....Who knows you might be able to find a newer motor than what you had with less miles even

 

okay so im trying to order my bearings for the car but company needs me to specify the bearing sizes and colors. does anyone have this information for me?

 

looks bad

 

anyone have the size/color information for the bearings/rings?

 

does anyone know if the crank out of the 2.4L 4g94 galant would work with the car?

 

first off, bummer about what happened.

Unfortunately, you are going to have to probably pull that engine in order to get this done right. You will have to measure the wear and check more than what just broke. Mileage on engines tend to wear down the tolerances and stock sizes might not be true any more. The crank journals will need to be measured in order to determine your possible bearing sizes.

Read this page
Check this page out

 

so we just pulled the motor and besides the crank everything actually seems to be looking in good condition.

my question is though. can we reuse main bolts? or do i need to get new ones?

 

I'd replace anything that should be replaced. Go get some good ARP bolts and sleep easy after that.

Do it now or do it later I suppose is the cliche'.

don't cheap out. Rods can be reused, but need to be inspected and potentially refurbished (rod bearing).

If you are going to go through the trouble of rebuilding, do it right and take your time.

good luck

 

If your replacing the rods you can get a set of stock evo rods for about 100 bucks , it's not Manley or crower but still much stronger than our stock rods.

 

so far what we're replacing is the rod bearings, main bearings, piston rings, gaskets, and the crank (possibly getting machined) but most likely replacing and oil pump.

i was only going to replace the one rod that was scored due to the bearing as seeing the others seemed fine.

which arp bolts should i get? only the mains? or do i need to pick up the head bolts/studs? i figured the head ones would be okay...

 

Not sure on the product number for ARP, just a suggested vendor as they are one of the best for fasteners, there are others out there though. Keep in mind that rod bolts "stretch", some will say you should use a stretch gauge, but if you properly torque them, they should be fine.

ARP has a cool writeup that is very informative as well Rod Bolt Stretch

You should be good with the head studs, but I would look into the mains and rod bolts for sure.

 

so here's my update, for now we found out that the crank is so toasted we could make a damn grilled cheese out of it xP

seriously though yeah I pm'd LSD and hopefully he can get me the crank/rod by next week. I ordered all the parts I need for exception of the bearings/piston rings cause sizing is important. Pretty much a new oil pump is being bought and I bought all new timing belt stuff PLUS I bought me a balance shaft eliminator kit to free up a little power.

No high compression pistons/rods for me, HOWEVER since the car is undergoing all this work I figured I cant have something as big as this happen with out gaining some power right? So i've decided.... RRM CAM!!! lol hopefully i'll be ordering it either by the end of this week or next week so it'll come in around the same time as everything else. It's going to be sweeeetttt =P

quick question: if i get the cam... can i run the car safely without getting it tuned? I dont think i can afford to go to a dyno and tune the car... that and i dont have the tuning software...

 

Yeah you can and will run fine with the cam and no tune although a tune would pull a few more ponies out of it. What stage cam did you get from rrm?