So I'll be investing in the RRM Piggyback in the next few weeks, and I was curious at to what gauges will I need to perform some custom tunes?
Oil temp/pressure, air/fuel, water temp? which of those will make life simpler for tuning?
keep in mind i also have an Apexi S-afc II

 

Id talk to rob at rrm about what you'll need , none of us
will know better than him

 

A wide band 02, access to a dyno (although not necessary, it makes it a lot easier), OBDII reader will help and fully understanding the thoughts behind tuning. Better yet would be to have the assistance of a qualified tuner and a Dyno.

Essentially the PB is just modifying the MAF to "fake" out the ECU so you can change a\f ratios.

Unless you are doing huge mods, their base tune is sufficient. Not to say that you can't customize it, but you are pretty limited to what it can do. If you are doing mainly bolt-on upgrades, it might be a waste of time. The PB do work, lots of tuners use PB due to OEM ECU's not being easily modifiable at times. There is quite a lot of discussion on this board about the fact that these PB's tend to "stop working". You draw your own conclusion about it.

Here is a good read on tuning via a Piggy Back with the Split Second box U-Tune

Here is the Split Second site, the RRM PB is a custom build but it is based off of the the PSC1 controller I believe.

The other option is to get the Hackish Reflash which does produce a decent amount of WHP, however, there is no software yet, although it is coming and you have to physically send your ECU to Hackish, so downtime on your ride, which will be a problem if it's your DD.

 

is an afr gauge the same as a wideband? and could you elaborate a lil bit on the "stop working" as in they are just used to it?
Thanks for your time and answering my questions by the way..

 

if i'm not mistaken a wideband O2 sensor is used in conjuntion with a wideband AFR gauge...it produces a more accurate reading...

as far as "stop working" goes, it would imagine that would entail some kind of failure within the circuit...as far as what fails, who knows unless you dissect it afterwards, but then you'd need to know nominal values, and you'd have to be familiar with the operation of the circuitry...

 

the piggyback is a good unit. what they are saying about stop working is the once in awhile the ecu will fight the piggyback and revert to a stock map. just gotta reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery and you will be all good again. it only happened to me a couple times.

 

well that's not so bad...i would more inclined to reflash...then again i can go visit hackish in about 2 hours

 

sweet thanks for the info, and ya as regaurding the reflash, ill probably wait for large modifications, for now the most ill end up doing is cams, ive done some bolt ons. And restarting ecu isnt too bad, so im not worried about that. And thanks to Rob I now have a path to follow, thanks again!

 

Rob will always lead you down the right path!

 

I've bought a bunch of stuff from this site, a wide band, MegaSquirt II controller and other bits and pieces for an EFI project. Excellent customer service and willing to assist on issues.

DIY Autotune