when i throw 3rd gear trying to stp and im over 40 miles an hour it doesnt let the gear go in and it grinds... would that be the syncros are bad or its just that im throwing the gear at to high of a speed??? help please

 

could be either way , your referring to downshifting or upshifting? and that lock out is a warning to stop doing what your doing. Grinding is your second warning ... the 3rd time you'll be walking

 

He said when trying to stop so hopefully he is down shifting.

 

hey im having a similar issue up and downshifting into 2nd gear. sometimes itll shift perfect sometimes it wont, seems different rpm and speeds have an effect but then sometimes it doesnt. im almost certain for me its a synchro and if your havign a similar issue then probably be the same.

if u have been having issues shifitng and its been rubbing/ griniding on a few occasions then i would think your synchro is probably worn along with the shift fork selector ring or whatever its called

 

i have the same issue shifting into 4th both ways i called a reliable transmission shop and they told me to check if my clutch was slipping. they said to put it in 1st and rev your engine to 4500 rpms with out the e-brake on and if the car starts going forward its the clutch if not its the syncros and it would be a good idea if i just got all of them done at one time.

what i found helps out with that problem when your driving is press the clutch in hold it for a few seconds and let the syncros all slow down then shift its been good for me and doesn't grind. ill get it fixed soon when i get all the parts i want.

 

yeah, my 3rd gear is a bit notchy at 6500 if i shift too fast, even after replacing synchros, but as deathsythe says, i can hold the clutch for a just a second, and the synchros catch up, and it's all good.

 

ridding yourself of the clutch slave module could speed up engagement unless you guys all already have that....

 

wouldn't that affect anything in a bad way?

 

No it wouldn't hurt anything the trans can surely handle not having that module there. It's there for slower engagement of the clutch take it out for the ss line and it's a more direct route for fluid therefore a faster engagement.

 

Yes, I've heard this. Cranswick and I are currently waiting to find out if anyone got rid of this module AND upgraded their clutch too.

 

LSD and gds for sure have, there are probably more in the wood work....

 

would also like a list people who have an aftermarket pressure plate, DID NOT remove the slave modulator, and still experienced master or slave cylinder failure...

 

picky picky j/k lol......

Not to sure about that second list , I'm going to just get an evo 8 cmc for peace of mind when I do my trans work.

 

i'm trying to narrow down why they are failing, because those that i can remember who experienced failures, had either removed the modulator, or bypassed it with the clutch line...i'm also not sure what exactly its purpose is...if it's an accumulator of sorts, i'm convinced removing it would put stress on the rest of the system, if it's not, then i don't know what the problem is, that's why i would like to know if anyone had a failure who didn't remove or bypass it...

 

I removed mine and I haven't had a problem with the cmc over about 50,000miles although my TOB is shot..... Maybe a connection there?