So I had my clutch replaced about 8 months ago and at the same thing had the cmc and fork arm replaced due to the fork arm snapped and the mechanic thought it may been because of the cmc. Anyways when we got it back the pedal was way way easier to press then before like it was nothing, but when shifting 1st to 2nd you can feel the gear want to grind or like feel the gear itself about every shift except when shifting around corners which was very odd to me. So after changing the Transfluid and getting shifter bushings and a short shifter it still does it. So I was thinking today could there be air in the clutch line this whole time? Would these things be symtoms of air in the clutch line? Also if so could someone link a post on how to change the fluid or bleed the clutch for me to get the air out? Any input is accepted!

Edit: replaced the part that moves the fork arm going into the transmission not sure if that's the clutch master cylinder (cmc) or not but the hydraulic piece where the fork arm is is what the mechanic also replaced... Was weird that after he replaced that there wasn't new fluids in the system it was still the old brown stuff that needs replaced anyways

 

yes

 

I chuckled.

The part that actuates the clutch fork is called the slave cylinder.

I can think of two things right now, your synchros are shot and need replacement or the clutch doesn't fully disengage while shifting.

There could be a few reasons for your clutch to not fully disengage, some of them being a bad adjustment of the clutch pedal, air in the clutch hydraulics line, leaking slave, etc.

If you think your clutch hasn't been bled correctly, I'd try on getting a better bleed first, then start checking other factors.

You can also squeeze the rubber boot on the slave cylinder, it could be faulty and not showing, only playing with the boot will let you know. If any oil at all is leaking there, you could have found the source of your problem.

While diagnosing, don't expect a new/rebuilt/recently replaced part to be automatically good.

Good luck!

 

For adjusting the pedal is there anyway to know when the clutch is fully engaged because there's about 1/4th inch slack before the pedal starts having force against it I always thought it needed to be adjusted but I was told any tighter and the clutch wouldn't be fully engaged when the pedal isn't in use but personally it seems it needs to be adjusted down some. When the clutch is engaged (pedal up) the fork arm and slave slave cylinder wiggle while the car is running causing a chirping noise leading me to believe it needs to be adjusted just a hair. when I get back from a trip I'm about to go on ima bleed the clutch and maybe adjust the pedal I'm over due for brake fluid anyways.

When bleeding the clutch should I take the slave cylinder out and bench bleed it or is ours good about not trapping air inside when doing a regular bleed in the car?

 

what transmission fluid is in there? You must use OEM or a synchromesh type or it will be exactly as you are describing.

 

SEARCH is your friend, use it!!!!!!!!!!!

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ja...smissions.html

 

On the stock RA system, you have 2 bleeder screws, one on the CMC itself and one one the slave. Procedure can be found in the How-to section.

Check your CMC for leaks, as RA CMC's and slaves are prone to leaks. I'd avoid adjusting the clutch pedal if you don't know what you are doing, too tight and the TOB will always be engaged, drastically reducing it's life (too loose and the clutch will not fully disengage). The TOB should barely disengage when no pressure is applied to the clutch pedal. As soon as you rest your foot on the clutch, the TOB should be engaging the pressure plate right away.

What fluid have you used in your transmission?? As stated, GM Synchromesh, BG Synchroshift II and Redline (mt-80 or 90, can't remember which) are almost our only options. The oil should be API-GL4 rated, API-GL5 DOES NOT SUPERCEDE API-GL4.

 

I searched for the past forever and found nothing I guess I'm not using the feature right, but I have amsoil gl-4 the good stuff that people recommend for our cars I'm sure it's not the fluid

 

Two important reads regarding clutch hydraulics :

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...intensive.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...way-out-4.html

 

the amsoil is not the best, i ran it without any problems, but some people have complained about notchiness and grinding gears...i experienced gear grind with the amsoil even after my rebuild, but only if i was shifting too fast, but it happened even before i used the amsoil, with two other types of oil...Redline MTL actually made the grinding go away completely and i can now shift quite fast without any grinding...

 

this may turn into another flamewar but i used mtg and had nothing but problems with it similar to what your saying went back to oem and its great again.

To bleed the system jsut leave everything on the car, make sure the resevoir is almsot overfillling and press the slave or clutch fork in multiple times you can see air coming up in the resevoir.

You can also if by yourself push the clutch pedal in and hold it in spot with a 2x4 of wood, and then get a small hose on the slave cylinder and bleed it slowly to remove the air.

doing it myself i spent about 1hour doing both techniques to get my system back to no air after putting on a new slave and amster cylinder,

 

This was happening before the fluid the fluid didn't help or hurt but next change I'm going to red line mtl. I'm bleeding the clutch and doing the brake fluid this weekend hopefully will help some its not to terrible I'm just worried about it getting worse

 

if you were having the problem before going to amsoil but after doing your slave then its probably air in your line related.

But id also still lean towards amsoil being a part of the problem cause more then just myself have had a decrease in shiftability of the trans after putting it in.
Do the bleeding first take the time get all the air out, if you still have a lot of problems adjust the pedal out a bit, if still problems change the fluid, after that theres only a few other options

 

You want to flush all that old stuff out first, don't push the old dirty crap back up from the slave into the reservoir. Power bleed or gravity bleed is better or best, find a friend to help.

 

Haha I like to keep good fluid in my car always use new fluid I defiantly need it anyways
Speaking of new fluid will any dot 3 do or is there a perferred brand among mitsubishi people?