Odd, occasional over-choking at idle
Odd, occasional over-choking at idle
Been testing out my new build (4G69 into OZ rally), and for the most part the car has been running great...although very occasionally at idle, the car runs very rich...sort of bounces from 500 to about 1500 RPMs...then suddenly it will correct itself, and it will idle steadily at about 1000 to 1100.
I have a number of aftermarket parts and our guess is that the coolant temperature sensor is delivering incorrect information to the ECU, but i thought i'd ask here if anyone else has experienced this with their RA?
As a temporary measure, I have a switch on my dash to manually turn on my overheat fan (as we are waiting on a temp sensor adapter for the top rad hose to arrive), and interestingly enough, the instant i turned the fan OFF, it went back to a normal idle.
EDIT: In another situation, however, turning the fan on (or off) did not correct the idle issue...
I have a number of aftermarket parts and our guess is that the coolant temperature sensor is delivering incorrect information to the ECU, but i thought i'd ask here if anyone else has experienced this with their RA?
As a temporary measure, I have a switch on my dash to manually turn on my overheat fan (as we are waiting on a temp sensor adapter for the top rad hose to arrive), and interestingly enough, the instant i turned the fan OFF, it went back to a normal idle.
EDIT: In another situation, however, turning the fan on (or off) did not correct the idle issue...
Last edited by doncarbone; May 25, 2013 at 08:48 PM.
nothing, just stock 2006 ECU, NA.
installed mods:
- RRM custom headers/down-pipe
- magnaflow catback exhaust
- AEM short ram intake
- clutchmasters light-weight flywheel
- ACT stage 3 clutch
- megan racing performance radiator
- 12" spal fan for cooling
- silicon rad hoses
- RRM motor mounts
installed mods:
- RRM custom headers/down-pipe
- magnaflow catback exhaust
- AEM short ram intake
- clutchmasters light-weight flywheel
- ACT stage 3 clutch
- megan racing performance radiator
- 12" spal fan for cooling
- silicon rad hoses
- RRM motor mounts
Not familiar with the Ralliarts but with just those mods, you should be looking at the basics. Anything thy involves controlling the idle should be checked. In example, MAF, IAT, PCV, idle stepper motor (if applicable) etc.. Check them all off the list and go from there
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For a NA flash he charges 500 iirc you can contact them threw their email uvtunes@gmail.com you would need a tactrix 2.0 cable and a laptop also. There is also a connector that you need to plug into that is next to the obd 2 plug I'm not sure if you have it because it's a oz. but if it's there the 2.0 cable comes with one or at least mine did.
Only time I experienced something like this is when I changed my throttle body and didn't do the learn sequence correctly.
Only time I experienced something like this is when I changed my throttle body and didn't do the learn sequence correctly.
Last edited by RacerX-Ralliart; May 27, 2013 at 08:43 PM.
For a NA flash he charges 500 iirc you can contact them threw their email uvtunes@gmail.com you would need a tactrix 2.0 cable and a laptop also. There is also a connector that you need to plug into that is next to the obd 2 plug I'm not sure if you have it because it's a oz. but if it's there the 2.0 cable comes with one or at least mine did.
Only time I experienced something like this is when I changed my throttle body and didn't do the learn sequence correctly.
Only time I experienced something like this is when I changed my throttle body and didn't do the learn sequence correctly.
I have contacted this email address with questions. Thanks for the referral!
we may have found the front o2 sensor plug....orange colored plug, is 4-pin, looks identical to the rear o2 sensor... it comes off the harness near where the passenger side headlight plugs are, seems a bit high up, but i guess if the o2 sensor is to be plugged in just after the headers merge into one it should reach...but regardless, there doesnt seem to be anywhere for the o2 sensor to twist into..
Attachment 334005
there is no bung in the downpipe or the headers for a front o2 sensor...just the one plug near the end of the downpipe that we are currently using for the rear o2 sensor with the CEL cat delete.
would i be able to have a shop drill into the bottom of my headers, or right at the beginning of the downpipe and weld in a bung for the front o2 sensor, or do i risk damaging the headers? i dont see how else we can get information to the computer for the front o2 sensor which is clearly causing fuel economy problems...
Attachment 334005
there is no bung in the downpipe or the headers for a front o2 sensor...just the one plug near the end of the downpipe that we are currently using for the rear o2 sensor with the CEL cat delete.
would i be able to have a shop drill into the bottom of my headers, or right at the beginning of the downpipe and weld in a bung for the front o2 sensor, or do i risk damaging the headers? i dont see how else we can get information to the computer for the front o2 sensor which is clearly causing fuel economy problems...
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