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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

Piston rod combo

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Old Aug 24, 2014 | 05:19 PM
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DirtyRalli's Avatar
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Piston rod combo

Im looking to upgrade my pistons and rods. Im planning on keeping my car naturally aspirated (with maybe a 50 or 75 shot) and i would like to get the best combo that would perform the best for an N/A application.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 05:02 AM
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if by "perform the best" you mean doesn't break at the stock rev limit, then wouldn't OEM be the best? I'll let the turbo guys speak for themselves but haven't Cranswick and OttRalliart and others showed that stock parts hold up fine under years of turbo/supercharger abuse?

or does "perform the best" mean you want to raise rpm limit to 9k or so, therefore you need lighter and stronger?

I'm interested to see where you go with this, I'd like to learn what works in the aftermarket for the 4g69.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 06:52 AM
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Lanzer speaks NOS so you may want to consult him.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 09:26 AM
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By perform the best i want to raise compression for more hp/tq and for the longevity of the motor
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 11:14 AM
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it costs less to turbocharge a stock motor, and you can easily make more power than a high compression build...


I'm assuming you're going for the prestige of "all motor" in which case nitrous oxide, is kind of defeating the purpose...why go high compression and finite boost, when you could make a system that self-lubricates, creates boost in real time and never runs out, and is always available with no switches.


I dunno man...talk to someone who's done it...I mean I ran fairly low boost on 91 octane fuel, and I even made a tune that worked well with 89 and also 94...for track and daily use. Now I can't run anything but 94, when I'm hitting 14psi, I might even be maxing out the stock fuel system, which I'm still using (however, if I drive like my grandmother, and never let the turbo spool, I could run on 87 octane fuel indefinitely, which you can't really do when you physically change the compression ratio). I would be really concerned about fuel type, like if you went 10.5:1 you might get away with 91, but you probably wouldn't yield an overly significant gain over stock...but say you want to go 11 or 12 to 1 compression, you'll probably need to be concerned with fuel types...and i'll tell you, there's 1 station in my town that has 94, but I just drove to nova scotia and back this weekend, and I didn't see any 94 fuel at any station we stopped to fuel at. but again, if you don't go on road trips, not a big deal...though when I first turbocharged the RA, I DID go to, and drove around Nova Scotia for a total of 13 days, and probably as many tanks of fuel.
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 01:00 PM
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We have lots of 94 gas stations here in toronto.

A few reasons why i dont wanna boost my car is that it has 200x km and i wouldnt trust boosting it and if something ever happens i just wasted all that money, also it was built naturally aspirated and their is not alot of parts for the 4g69 to fully build it for boost or else i wouldve done it a long time ago and im just messing around with this thing, i look everyday online to ship and evo 8/9 from thenstates as soon as imfind one worthwhile im gonna pick it up
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 02:56 PM
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there must be parts for it, if you can build a high compression block, then you can build for boost, the parts needed for either one are exactly the same, only the pistons will have varying dimensions...building the motor for high compression is not going to do anything for longevity, because you're increasing combustion chamber pressure, and power output, thus wear and tear on key components such as main bearings, pulleys, pumps etc. not to mention drivetrain...any time you add power, you're not adding longevity, regardless of the parts used for the build. Why not just get a bone stock 4g69 from a wrecker for $400, turbo that, and if it blows, then you're out an engine that's probably as abundant as an H22.
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