Does anyone have issues with the steering wheel shaking while trying to slow down at high speeds. In the classifieds I was asking and R1Concepts was saying I might have warped rotors. Not calling anyone a liar, but I remember this happening when my car was brand new. Im just wondering, if I get the crossdrilled/slotted rotors in the classified from R1Concepts, am I gonna have that same effect? Anyone here have upgraded breaks/rotors? Chime in....

Didnt want to get in the classifieds section with all my questions while there trying to make sales...

 

New pads may be all you need, but make sure to bed them in properly... you could have a buildup of pad material on the rotors, causing the shaking - highly unlikely you actually have warped rotors though... I tend to believe that warping rotors is more myth than anything, except in really rare circumstances. How many miles on your car?
-N

EDIT: I forgot to mention... if it is a buildup of pad material on your discs, then it's possible that new pads, properly bedded in will clean things up... if not, worst case scenario is you'll need to turn the rotors. Just properly bed the pads in and all will be well... and buy nice pads.
-N

 

Yep the problem is defently Warpes Rotors, the Crossdrille will help a little bit by letting the heat desepated , wath you realy need if you are going to be that hard on you breaks is not only the Crossdrille but also more air flow in to your breaks to keep the temperatured down.............

 

may not be warped rotors. like neil said, could be pads. If you dont have really high miles, its a suprise to me. is it JUST when you break? if not, could also be an allignment issue.

regardless, the r1 discs look pretty good. great price, too. not to mention that they make the car look really hot get in on that group buy!!!!

 

My Talon goes through rotors about as quick as it goes through pads. When I drove it every day, I used to change the brakes (pads & rotors) about every 6 months. Even properly torquing the lug nuts didn't prevent my rotors from warping. It's not all that rare.

 

I'm much more likely to associate that with improper break-in procedures of new pads, bad (rock hard perhaps) pads, and/or bad braking technique. For example, when at a red light on flat ground, do you leave your foot stamped on the brakes? Even if you know your brakes are probably pretty hot?

Even if I'm wrong, I find it hard to believe you really needed new rotors every time you replaced pads, unless the pads were lifetime rock-solid pads that lasted 100,000 miles until the rotors had actually worn away. If that wasn't the case, then the rotors could have at worst needed to be turned and I'd bet they'd have been fine... but obviously, I can't speak for your car.
-N

 

I've found that the pads mitsu uses for stock applications actually cannot take high heat ranges... they harden and in some cases you can see where they've glazed and cracked from the heat. Take off the pads and look at them... if they are glazed over then they cannot hold up to the heat from a high speed slow down.

Investing into some better pads usually cures this. If you continue to use stock pads doing high heat(high speed) stops you will eventually warp the rotors. Using better pads will cure this but don't think it can't happen... even the best pad will glaze if not bedded in right or if put thru to much severe duty/high heat situations. Basically if you do high speed stops constantly even the best pad will start to studder.

To see if its the pad or rotors do this... first pull the rotors and have them checked... most autozones/pepboys/etc will do this and turn them if needed. This lets you know if the rotor was a part of the problem or not. If it's in specs you know it's the pads... if not have it fixed and inspect the pads.

If the pads are nice and smooth/glossy they have glazed. How severe is something you'll only know when you lightly/evenly file/rough it up. You can use a course sandpaper or rasp file to slighty rough up the surface. The longer it takes the more severe the pad was cooked/overheated. Put everything back in the car and do some normal city driving stop and go for about 10 minutes. Try a faster stop from above 65mph. Did it shake/studder?? If not drive around for about 10 minutes to ensure the pads are nice and cool... try the stop from 75 mph. Did it studder/shake??... if not repeat the 10 minute cool down and try from 85mph. Then cool down again this time stopping the car completely and letting them fully cool down so that they are cool to the touch.

If at any time you got shakes or shudders then the pads cannot take the heat being created by the high speed stop. Upgrade the pads. Do this quickly as you don't want to warp the rotors.

If your rotors were warped and turned/replaced and you upgraded the pads... check them after a month or so... if you ever feel the shakes/studders definately check them. If you have agian warped the rotors but the pads seem good then upgrade the rotors.

Some people drive harder than others... ie: they burst up to speed and do the shortest stops possible. For those drivers the stock setup will not hold up. For the 65mph, slowing 100ft before the turn, and 2 second rule drivers the stock brakes are fine.

 

No. If I even think my brakes are hot, I'll pull the e-brake to hold the car in place. I've never warped a rear rotor from them getting hot.

Problem is, I do a lot of high-speed interstate driving. Then I hit the lovely Chicago traffic, and everything comes to a stop, so quickly that people routinely hit the breakdown lane to keep from ramming the person in front of them.

True, I could probably get them turned, but as they cut material off, I'd just be more likely to warp the rotor. There would be less material to take the heat.

 

I have close to 19g miles on my car.. I think I might need new pads, not sure..Ill check'em out...Maybe ill invest in those wind things, not sure the name. They push air to your brakes.. Those will help alot right?

 

I also get the vibration in the steering, but only when performing high speed breaking. THe other week I went on a 400 mile trip and it was one lane all the way. I had to do a ton of passing and so from doing many slowdowns from over 100mph, my brakes started to vibrate. I thought I warped the rotors. But after they have cooled down, there is no vibration. They will only vibrate from long, hard high speed stops. So, I do agree with the notion of glazed or overheated pads. Its almost worth the 90 bucks to get a new set of pads.

 

stock front pads from mitsu tend to be gone at 12-15k miles. The rear pads last longer... replaced mine at about 45k and they still had some life on them.

The axis pads(severe duty) i've had on for about 30k miles... still got plenty of pad and still stop great even under high heat conditions. Can't wait to put the ultimates on there next.

 

even though i'm a lancer not ralliart the pad materials are the same and from the same manufacturer... thus the ralliart has the same issues the lancer does with high speed high heat stops. That is why i'm commenting about it to you guys. Trust me the stocker front pads suck!!

 

Where is this group buy for those rotors? Or a website that I can see 'em at?

 

19k miles and you're ready for new pads... buy some new pads, some nice ones, and bed them in properly. If you still have a problem with braking, then worry about the rotors, but I imagine your pads are just too low.
-N

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=92523

no free pads, but free shipping. Not as much a group buy as it is a 'get em while there hot!' deal. RRM has much better deals on the pads, as you can get a set of 4 for just $20 more.