Break in
Break in
Im curious about how long(mileage) the car takes to break in properly.
That and the way to treat the car in that period. Do I need to take it easy or letting it rip from the get go.
I do feel the car struggling to get to higher RPM and it wastes gas like crazy. I dont travel at Mivec operating speeds on the highway, so I dont know why is giving me such crappy gas mileage
That and the way to treat the car in that period. Do I need to take it easy or letting it rip from the get go.
I do feel the car struggling to get to higher RPM and it wastes gas like crazy. I dont travel at Mivec operating speeds on the highway, so I dont know why is giving me such crappy gas mileage
i waited like 5000 miles honestly...you dont have to wait that long..there were times when i got on it a lot..but for the most part i babied the crap outta it.....i'd give it about 1-2k miles and you should be good
I'm at 800 and I'm just starting to break into MIVEC range, but not even most of the time. I've heard of plenty of people gunning it right out of the dealership parking lot, hitting 6k or whatever when it's brand new, they claim that you'll squeeze more performance by breaking in the seals with immediate aggressive driving, but I'm not about to take chances. I'd rather have a tiny bit less power and more reliability. And it depends on what you mean by break in... at about 600 miles you can probably get into MIVEC range safely and work your way up as the milage goes. That's just my .02 though, some will say wait forever, some will say don't even break it in.
Yeah, I kept mine under MIVEC for 3,000 km, at which point I did an oil change and started driving it harder. And I am on the cautious side, I would rather have my engine last a few years, than have 5 extra HP at the risk of screwing something up with a hard break-in.
^why? when the manual only recomends 1000....
now think about that...if the manual recomends 1000, and they play everything on the safe side then, you would prolly be safe at 500-750,
i didnt redline my car till 1000- and i kept it under 5k till then but i drove it medium, not easy, but not trully hard
now think about that...if the manual recomends 1000, and they play everything on the safe side then, you would prolly be safe at 500-750,
i didnt redline my car till 1000- and i kept it under 5k till then but i drove it medium, not easy, but not trully hard
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Originally Posted by lookslikeanevo
^why? when the manual only recomends 1000....
now think about that...if the manual recomends 1000, and they play everything on the safe side then, you would prolly be safe at 500-750,
i didnt redline my car till 1000- and i kept it under 5k till then but i drove it medium, not easy, but not trully hard
now think about that...if the manual recomends 1000, and they play everything on the safe side then, you would prolly be safe at 500-750,
i didnt redline my car till 1000- and i kept it under 5k till then but i drove it medium, not easy, but not trully hard
i couldn't even wait for the first tank of gas to run out and i was letten her rip, change the oil after a thousand klicks look at the oil see if you see and metal chunks i didn't just fine metal thats normal ,oil was still clean
Originally Posted by Scarf Face
I remember reading somewhere how during break-in period, tiny bits of metal will chip off the gears as the engine actually breaks itself in, and that those parts might potentially cause some scratches or other damage. This is probably only true with older cars, but I was cautious anyway. I'm not saying I never ever floored it before 3,000 km, but I tried to keep the RPMs low. I still do it even now, after a year of owning it. Of course, there are times when 'spirited driving' is appropriate, but usually I can't justify going to 5K at every traffic light.
i wasnt saying flooring it at every chance lol....but engines are tested and ran before they are put on a car, and then ran again once on a car, but people used to sya break it in because of the seals, which i dont really think need to be worried about this day and age. plus theres always that warranty if anything happens, which is unlikelyps: right when i pulled out of the dealer i chirped 2nd on purpose
The seals will be fine reguardless of how you drive. The metal in the oil, no matter how fine, should not be visible. It is normally caught by the filter. One of two things are happening.
1. The filter is already filled to capacity with metal, the by-pass valve opens, your engine gets plenty of unfiltered oil.
2. The engine is generating metal particles faster than the oil can get to the filter. (this means more break-in is needed)
Does sand feel good between your *** cheeks? It's bad enough when you stand still, now try running. Does it feel even better? Then don't redline your car until you've changed the oil at 500 miles, 1,500 miles, and 3750 miles. What a bunch of dumbsh!ts.
Another question...
What do you do when the warranty runs out? Buy a new car? If that's the case, just never change the oil other than the scheduled intervals. Never perform any extra maintainence.
1. The filter is already filled to capacity with metal, the by-pass valve opens, your engine gets plenty of unfiltered oil.
2. The engine is generating metal particles faster than the oil can get to the filter. (this means more break-in is needed)
Does sand feel good between your *** cheeks? It's bad enough when you stand still, now try running. Does it feel even better? Then don't redline your car until you've changed the oil at 500 miles, 1,500 miles, and 3750 miles. What a bunch of dumbsh!ts.
Another question...
What do you do when the warranty runs out? Buy a new car? If that's the case, just never change the oil other than the scheduled intervals. Never perform any extra maintainence.
What I did its that I hit her hard leaving the dealership, a nice 3 gear chirps until taking it to fourth and letting off. I drive 200 miles 6 days a week my car is already at 800 miles.
Buty call me a dumbsh!t if you like but im changing oil at 1k
...oh yeah 26 more days to Forza
Buty call me a dumbsh!t if you like but im changing oil at 1k
...oh yeah 26 more days to Forza
Another point of view found in this article. Controversial for sure but in view of the changes in manufacture of engines and cylinder wall finish in the past few years it has some merit IMHO. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I used this method successfully on many single cylinder Honda 4-stroke racing Go-Kart engines and the leakdown tests were phenomenally good as compared with conventional methods of break-in.
Clark
I used this method successfully on many single cylinder Honda 4-stroke racing Go-Kart engines and the leakdown tests were phenomenally good as compared with conventional methods of break-in.
Clark


