did u guys have problems with idle?? and hard starts?

 

No, no problems with idle or cold starts, even when my CEL is on. I can hear a difference at idle, but that's just because the ECU is dumping in more fuel because it thinks it's running too lean. It idles fine, just sounds different.


My car dislikes being driven in city traffic. Almost every time I drive into the city, my CEL comes on. Then I have to get back out in the county and flog my car for a while on some backroads before my fuel trim comes back down and the light shuts off.

Which is fine, it's just one more reason for me to avoid cities.

 

so your idle keeps jumping from between 1000-400 rpms?? when you did the engine light check did you get more then one error code? i got 3.. 2 running too lean and one rpms too high which is prob caused by running too lean and ecu trying to make up for that... how can i fix my prob though>

 

I'm gonna bump this. I got this issue last night. I didn't even drive 15 miles and it shut back off right when I bought the MAF cleaner. I'm going to take everything apart and check it out anyways.

What I'm wondering is if getting a piggyback will solve this problem... assuming the MAF is good.

 

Okay I know for a fact there are at least 3 of these threads.. concerning P0171 bank 1 Lean... just wanted to toss in an update on mine....

I installed my SRI and not even a week later SES/CEL comes on and goes off every couple of days..

Ever since I started running nothing but super unleaded/supreme gas whatever you wanna call it. I haven't seen the SES/CEL thrown at all. Before it would come on for about 3-5days and then go off for 2 or 3 days.. and do that back in forth.. whether my car sat for a week after I reset the ECU or an hour.. didn't matter how much I drove the car. Its been about a month since ive seen the SES/CEL if not longer

And I always buy either Shell or 76 Gas... usually don't go anywhere else... its a bit more expensive but its never let me down before.

Mods in Sig -

You'll notice if your not heavily modded and already sucking gas that when this code comes up your gas MPG goes to hell...

 

I ended up reprogramming my Piggy to compensate. Had to change a LOT of 9.6, 9.7, and 9.8s into 10.2s or 10.1s. Then I reset my ECU to put all the fuel trims back to 100%. So far, only the mid trim has moved off of 100%, and has not moved very far.

I should probably pull apart the CAI and at least check out the MAS and filter. If nothing's wrong with them, I should be able to re-load the map I had in the Piggy next Spring when it warms up again.

 

That thing is programmed by RRM in SoCal weather. Quite a few people have had issues with lean conditions on the base tune.

It seems the IAT compensation needs to be modified when you change the intake box setup. I would bet that all those resonating chambers regulate the temperature of the intake air because of the high heat in our engine bay. the stock IAT compensation is probably designed around this regulated temperature range. that would explain your severe(as far as the sensitivity the software allows) changes in your map now that it is getting colder out.

Mysz, can I get a copy of your xml file? I have not messed with mine since I lost the ability to tune, and haven't changed any of the formulas to reflect the RA's readings.

 

I get that all the time.. I was told it was cause I'm running catless and my front O2 sensor is also spaced out more since I had to mount an anti-fouler to it since mitsu stripped the O2 sensor when they replaced my flexpipe and won't claim responsibility for it. I have a LC-1 wideband being installed soon so i'll just use that as my narrowband upstream O2 sensor...

 

Update:

I was to the point where I had put a lot of 10.4 and 10.5 into the piggy map, and my fuel trim high would still spike to 135% all at once after a reset. I have a picture of a datalog graph, attached...

Last weekend I pulled off my MAS and K&N filter. The MAS looked clean, so I put it back in. The filter was FILTHY. I soaked it with cleaner and let it sit. When I rinsed it, the rinse water looked like dark coffee for the first couple minutes. Eventually it came out clean. Once the filter was dry, I re-oiled it and put it back on the car.

After an ECU reset, now my fuel trims medium and high are down in the 80s percentwise, and low is still at 100%, where it has been all along. I'll end up putting a lot of the piggy map back to where it was before all this started, which is good.

In summary, my P0171 code was caused by a dirty air filter. Don't let it happen to you.

 

I was throwing this code and was having shaky idling. Turned out to be my MAF sensor O ring. It was stretched out and allowing just enough air to be a problem. I replaced the O ring and my car is smooth idle and code free. I fought this code for 3 weeks and almost blamed it on RRM.

 

Glad to hear it was the I oring

 

RRM could party be to blame.... when I had my CAI on my RA there was left over powder coating in the hole which ruined my o-ring. Had to get another. They should clean that hole out more before shipping those out. Otherwise nice CAI.

 

Nope, not in my case. I took my MAF sensor off and on a few times to clean it. One of the times I put it on it was put on crooked which stretched it out and kinked it. The stretched kinked O ring was 100% my fault and not RRM. I checked my bracket and it did not have too much powder coating and it was never an issue until I took it apart. New O ring costs 40 cents.

 

i had this code after a CAI. Since it was 2 pieces with a coupling, i split it and made it a SRI. No more code.....maybe that will help. ??????

 

with this code too^^^ that my friend is a vacuum leak. I had the same issues