Yeah, transmission housings, rear differentials, suspension components, cylinder heads, etc, on a lot of cars are a cast aluminum... It has its place... Most pieces are rough cast then machined where necessary... Could you imagine a cylinder head not being cast? It would be all billet machined aluminum, which would be one sexy piece of equipment... Im sure the cost would be reflective though...

 

I really would like to drop a pulley in my '04 RA as well but I'm not big on mechanics so don't know if this is a job I can do myself either...I've read the instal guide (online) but the main thing that worries me is the allan wrench and the tension stuff...

 

its super easy, get a 1/2 drive breaker bar or ratchet... You'll have to muscle the ratchet a little more than a breaker bar... Use a short extension to hook into the tensioner... The tensioner has a small hole to the bottom left on it that will line up with another hole on the block once tension is relieved... Get those two holes lined up and slip in an allen wrench ( I used a screwdriver, same principle) and now the tensioner is stationary and you can slip off the old belt and install the new pulley... Replace the belt with the new one, undo the tensioner and you are done.... Don't fret, if you are nervous about the install, just make sure you have an afternoon to do it in and don't rush...

 

You have 30 free minutes? Are you super good at tying your shoes?

If the answer to both of those questions is yes than you can handle this install.

 

We have never had any pulleys break. They are all CNC machined, balanced, come with good instructions and MADE IN THE USA! Not somewhere else! THis ensures quality of matierials etc...... Improper install is a possible but still never heard of any problems.

ROAD/RACE

 

Great Thanks. I will get one soon..

 

The only thing that's stopped me from unleashing all that torque with a pulley is my dad's fear of long-term crankshaft harmonic degredation and other harmonic-related issues that you wouldn't see until keeping it on for tons of miles anyways. But that hasn't stopped anybody else and there haven't been any problems, so if your only concern is that it could break... go for it!

 

yeah i know little about the engine but i did it myself using the stock car jack and the tools suggested in the directions...it took me a few hours mainly because i couldnt get a hold of the right size drive ratchet to do the tensioner part..which i might add was a pain in the a$$ to do be myself...had to hold it back and try and get the allen wrench in at the same time...hah other than that im sure you can do it by foloowing the directions and asking for some help on here...i had to and got great help plus pics thanks guys

 

I respect your concern here. I have more than answered this question as it is the one of the most important concerns I have ongoing for the sale and use of this pulley. I have been through countless debates and even tore done a few 4G63 engines in my time.

The harmonic degradation is hard to prove and has not been proven. I ran my GSX hard for lots of miles very modded with a solid crank pulley. The main reason for placement of the rubber on the stock pulley is to dampen deflection on belt driven components from the crank shaft.

It bearings and the crank were weak enough that a solid crank pulley could actually hurt their wear and damage the engine you would have bigger problems on your hands. So use the pulley!

 

you dont really ned to worry about torqe it just four bolts so its prety well distributed im sure the rrm guy's will give the exact specs .cool product works well . oh and yes there is a few 400 hourse ra out there mostly in puert rico

 

The torque spec is 18 +/- 3 ft*lbs. Having said that, I just snugged them down to what I felt was about right, and have had 40,000 trouble-free miles with my pulley.

 

My friend installed unorthodox crank pulley on his 350z. It was great it was good up until we detected oil leak. And he had to get either the OEM or i guess KJR which had the OEM size.

I was going to do the lightened UR crank pulley for my Z , but after the oil leak issue i changed my mind.

Now, the idea of having a lightened crank pulley is back. I want your opinion, If i go with a lightened crank pulley will it have any issues, such as the oil leak we had in the 350z.
Any recommendations on brand names and places online to buy them ? I see Perrin does one.
I want a crank pulley, OEM size.. diameter
I really need your feedback on this , do i need to flas the ECU when i get it installed ?

 

You own an EVO although I will still answer your questions.

The Perrin or GruppeS one is your best bet. They are the same diameter although of course lightened and use the stock belt.

I have installed the Pulley on a few EVO's and I see NO possible way to generate an oil leak from this. I have seen NO negative affects from running a solid crank pulley on EVO.

No flash needed, just bolt on and go.

I would buy from wherever you can get the best price.

 

Thank you Joe ... I am still curious about the 350z/crank pulley/oil leak issue
Do you know of a good place to buy the Crank pulley from ?

 

Well I have seen a pulley kit for the 350z and I can't say I understand how this set would generate an oil leak. I cannot directly help you although I see it as unlikely that a underdriven pulley could have caused an oil leak.

Chris @ logicperformance.com
http://www.logicperformance.com/data...roducts_id=443

I am pretty sure he also has a super strong serpentine belt available too.