hmm interresting...I would have expected much more on the top end, especially with all the intake/exhaust mods you have. It looks like you got back the torque you lost with the headers though. Unless you were running on a mustang dyno or your car's an automatic, you should be well over 160hp. I would bring it back in to haltech and see if they can work on your peak.

 

Yes I was very happy that the power was nice and smooth.

Thanks reTro, I'm actually really happy with the car. It now rockets out of corners lol.

Hey Kelv, I actually use that mr2 page for hp to kw conversion rates and thats why I was very confused when I dynoed only 109.4kwatw. I was expecting much more with my mods but I'll have to see, I do notice the powerband is greatly improved. The thing that intrigues me was that with all those mods, and with the estimates given by each vendor, my kw at the engine would have been somehwere around 145-155kw. So at the wheels its dropped to 109.4kw....



I think next is the intake manifold or would you go camshaft and cam gears?

 

Cam

 

The hard bit here is that you have not done a stock power run and then done power runs without the Haltech to see th differences and then with the Haltech... but who would know that you would take this route..

Here are some base JDM numbers for the Australian cars - the factory quotes are always at the flywheel which claims 120kw at flywheel which is equal to about 115hp at the wheels or 84kw this is stock figures

Your mod numbers before you got the Haltech put on but with your current mods is 105kw at the wheels or 144hp so that was an increase of 20kw/30hp atw with those mods.

After Haltech you gained only an extra 5kw or 7hp... now while the hp numbers don't make it look all that great what you really need to look at is the way it delivers the power and how much extra torque you have gained which is very very impressive and how nice and clean those lines are very smooth it id not bouncing around like some I have seen.

Just remeber it is torque that wins races and hp wins dyno shootouts... I know which one I want.

As for next mods look at the stage 1 cam and intake as a next step up buy the parts and get them installed and tuned in at the same time this will save some money and dyno time

Well done on a great result

 

sorry for the double post but I nearly missed the Mivec change over point as to how clean that is - there is usually a dip in the power line when it changes over but yours actually increases here which is great... the bigger cam will give you more top end your bottem end is very healthy if you add too much lower end you will be handicapped by loss of traction so I would now be looking at your top end now

 

The dyno results look great - as said very smooth and its great that the interceptor package is workig nicely. One thing to remember as well is that many dyno's all read differently so if you went on another dyno tomorrow from another firm, you woudl more than likely get different results.

At the end of the day, and I would imagine that Haltech woudl have tuned it conservativly to run on a 91 RON pump fuel, if it was tuned specifically to a 98 RON pump fuel only with more timing, then more gains could have been purchased.

Something you can do later is get a duel mapping switch installed onto the car, and have a specific tune for 98 RON fuel and then pick up some more power and torque again. Also playing with the mivec changeover point could also help but there again, haltech were not going to spend 5 hours tuning the car and playing with every single option.

Glad you liked the shift light - they are great aren't they and so small and unobtrusive.

I imagine a software update iwll be available in the next two weeks - when I get back to work next week, I will put some pricing together for the USA crowds.

Once again this is great news and really finally opens up the market for everyone to finally have a tuning product that can do both fuel and ignition, mivec point and also control auxiliary things like shift lights, water spray etc and duel mapping for different fuels. ANd don't forget the NOS control as well lol

 

Thanks for the info Christine and Dave. I'll take a note of this for future reference

Would it have made a difference if there was 98 RON in the tank? Cause I did fill it up with a full tank of 98 Shell V-Power before going into Haltech. Maybe I should've told them to tune it to 98 RON.

As for future mods, I'll definitely be going Cams next which will give me a healthy mid-top end power and as for the power curve I'm really happy as the curve just seems to keep going up and up without any major drops in the power. Especially at the mivec changeover, it increases quite nicely. Also 6000rpm seems like the point to change gears at since the power seems to drop off after this point.

 

Sorry but this is way off. A stock ralliart with no mods typically dynos on average about 147hp. I'm not sure where you get 115. I assume you are using a 30% loss from the crank hp? This just doesn't apply with this car. I'm not sure why mitvrx has virtually no peak gains from the haltech or the headers/downpipe for that matter if it was done on a dynojet which account for diff. in run conditions.

 

i smell something fishy. with all of your mods listed i would have expected a greater output of hp/tq. i think you should look around for another good tuner.

 

Like you said the U.S RalliArt dynos average is 147hp... the average JDM Australian delivered car only has at best 115hp atw... why we don't know both have the same engine....
I do have a dyno sheet for mine when I got it, would you like me to post it up for you?

 

ok - I didn't realise there was an output diff. between the ralliart you get in aussie and the north american one. Strange since they have the same engine and crank horsepower. Likely has to do with emissions then. If that is the case then nice gains.

 

Emissions is a big part of it. First off, the Aus version has 2 catalytic converters. Also, they're use different fuel down there, but not sure if that helps or hinders.

 

Okay now I'm confused. Is this harness a cut and solder harness or a jumper harness? By jumper I mean I plug it in between the factory harness and factory ecu without cutting/soldering anything? Not cutting my factory harness is very important to me!

Otherwise the dyno plots look fantastic! Can't wait to see what a set of aggressive cams do.

 

ECU doesn't need to be in full view, just the wires, which aren't covered by anything. If you remove your glove box, then it'll be super easy for you to take a picture. Pretty please?

 

This is a wire in job, it is not a plug and play package. There is only around 7 wires to tap into though and is very easy to do. Most cars can be wired in around 1 hour max.