^ are you having issues with air/fuel ratios?

 

It's small and oval shaped, usually on the top. I haven't actually looked to see if we have one, but we should.

?

 

perhaps he's talking about the brake dust shield on the back of the rotor? or brake rotor ducting? The rear brakes arn't vented so I don't think having ducting would help any. plus It's the fronts that do the most braking effort. I have a bud who did it to his 350Z and another who just removed the shield completely on his STi. It helped a lot, but they still had problems with brake fade. I havn't had too many problems myself with brake fade/overheating. I've turned my rotors blue and had smoking brakes and charred off the brake pad backing printing, but never problems with brake fade.. ok I think this may be super off topic now. =P

and thanks otter, I'll take a look when the snow melts

 

nah, airflow converters let the ECU think that a certain amount of air is entering which in turn lets you manually adjust the amount of fuel that's being sprayed in the combustion chamber. or something along those lines.

 

that has nothing to do with the e-brake cable or braking for that matter =P

 

Hey I just adjusted my ebrake. The manual says it should grab between 5 and 7 clicks. I took that to mean that leaving it between 5-7 clicks should be a reasonable force to put on the ebrake. I adjusted it so that I could leave it at 6 clicks and that would hold the car. Sound right?

 

thats right. just make sure there is no brear brake drag when you take up the slack though.

 

well does the airflow converter make any difference in the way the car runs for ex. better or worse?

 

I think it really is just helpful when it comes to tuning the car... Unless you don't do any tuning yourself I wouldn't really touch it but I would think it would make the car run better or more power if done correctly

 

Well im thinking about removing it but not really sure yet