I was running a defouler in my downpipe. I have a cat so I decided to take it out. **** was so rusty that when I tried to torque it loose it snapped in half. And the part that's stuck in there is almost rusted completely. I've tried wd40, rust penetrating oil and other similar items, no dice. So my rear o2 is just sitting in the socket but not tightened. Funny no check engine light. at this point I'm resorting to putting a mag-torch to it.

****ing car.....

 

I am noticing that these cars and I am refering to most Mitsubishi the bolts and fastners rust easy and are a major issue.....

 

Maybe you will put anti-seize on the threads this time...

 

Raliartize is referring to a very cheaply made piece of aluminum put on the car after market to help with a check engine light (I think that's what they're made of) and definitely not designed to withstand the salt and **** you guys up north put your cars through, not at ALL! Sux...torch it

 

If you were in indy, you could have the galvanized one I got with my exhaust.

 

It was on the car when I bought. Not even sure how well anti-seize would hold up against the salted roads up in Boston. ****ING bolt.

 

heat it up with a torch alot. get it real hot, then twist. use anti seize

 

It works actually very well. When I did the o2 housing on my car I anti-seized all the bolts and the o2 sensor when I put it on. Took the car out the next day on a track and beat the crap out of it till the entire thing turned blue. Decided to take it off to make the wastegate merger hole a little bigger. Bolts and nuts came off easily.

Its a creation of the gods!

 

Ok when I get it off i'll def use some anti seize on that ****er.

 

Dissimilar metals that we commonly encounter - carbon steel, stainless steel, aluminum, brass, magnesium - when in contact with each other in the presence of water, especially salty moisture, will always corrode. The corrosion "grows" thus taking up more space than the original metal, so you get interference; that plus a lack of lubrication causing a very high coefficient of friction between the male and female threads makes it almost impossible to twist apart such threaded joints without catastrophic failure (things breaking).

Heating the female part with a torch will create space between the threads due to thermal expansion and this usually works well to facilitate disassembly.

In a previous thread I pointed out a link to perhaps the most effective rust penetrant - a home-made mix of acetone and ATF.

The expensive solution is to nickel-plate mating parts or make them all out of corrosion resistant steel (this is now commonly called "stainless" steel which used to be a trademarked name).

For folks without access to a military budget, application of an anti-seize compound when first screwing parts together is our solution to this corrosion problem.