P0441 help!?
Feb 8, 2013, 11:28 AM
#16
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Change gear at a lower rpm and stay in the highest gear possible for any given speed, develop the throttle finesse to hold a gear as long as the rpms are at idle or higher, dont floor it.
When last did you change your air filter ?
I change mine every spring.
Outside of these things, I dont do anything special to my car.
I cannot say it's ever been tuned, it reached 140 000 km sometime in the last week or so.
What would a tune involve ?
Having your tyres overinflated can lead to premature wear, so there may be no net savings there, my winters were set to 30 psi on a November day when it was over 0C, goodness knows what pressure they have now that it's bloody -20C every other dam day.
Getting great mileage is over rated man, for now I try to be good till the needle reaches 3/4 then situation normal resumes.
When last did you change your air filter ?
I change mine every spring.
Outside of these things, I dont do anything special to my car.
I cannot say it's ever been tuned, it reached 140 000 km sometime in the last week or so.
What would a tune involve ?
Having your tyres overinflated can lead to premature wear, so there may be no net savings there, my winters were set to 30 psi on a November day when it was over 0C, goodness knows what pressure they have now that it's bloody -20C every other dam day.
Getting great mileage is over rated man, for now I try to be good till the needle reaches 3/4 then situation normal resumes.
i was thinking of getting a new set of spark plugs, a new fuel filter and a new air filter when spring comes around. do you think that'd help?thanks so much for the quick response btw. it's greatly appreciated
Feb 8, 2013, 12:01 PM
#17
im pretty sure our cars dont have fuel filters...
but defenetly i'd suggest getting new air filter(or cleaning it if it's cleanable), spark plugs and a valve adjustment if u havent done one...stay out of mivec as stated above(cuts on ~3500rpm, cuts off after u enter it ~3400rpm if u slow down again IIRC)
also the timing belt, if you're due probably would help a bit, since it stretches over time and could cause timing to go off slightly therefore getting your mileage down...
synthetic oils(trans, engine oil) can help but the difference is minimal, and for the price difference, probably not worth it(if u're ONLY doing it for the mileage)
you could pay to get a intake/fuel system cleaning(or do one yourself)
also definetly do not lead foot(the only thing u wanna do in a RA), most times i go 1-2-3-5, and dont even shift into 4th, just to get to 5th quicker and get keep the rpms down...and sometimes skip 2nd(but not regularly)...
actually i read in a magazine once(car and driver IIRC), you really don't need the power from all your gears around town, it just makes it smoother to drive, if u go 1-3-5(then 6 if u have it) and dont leadfoot, u'll get the best mileage u can provided all maintenance is up to date...
also alignment can bring your mileage down by causing the tires to drag down the road if they're not adjusted properly, but unless your alignment is horrible, it wont be noticeable...and u'll pay a ton in tires, from wear, before youll worry about your mileage...u'll need the mileage so u dont go thru a set or 2 in a month(yes, ive seen it happen, and they still didint get an alignment, they just sold the car lol)
for the tire pressures as it was mentioned previously...yea it will cause premature wear of the tires, but honestly u'll most likely have to replace them for something else before it's worn bad enough from the overinflation...i have ran my tires at 40psi since i've started driving in all 3 of my cars and both of my wife's cars over the years and both our motorcycles, but ive replaced more tires from alignment wear, or damage than EVER from overinflation wear...
and me being a mechanic(for 6 years) same goes for customer cars, ive seen the wear but honestly it's not something to really worry about, i change tires almost on a daily basis on customer's cars(wether it's 1, 2, 3or all 4..), and never once have i had to replace a tire solely because of overinflation wear...
and im not 100% if they're offered but now some brands have low rolling resistane tires, wich create less drag onto the road as u drive giving u a slightly better mileage
but defenetly i'd suggest getting new air filter(or cleaning it if it's cleanable), spark plugs and a valve adjustment if u havent done one...stay out of mivec as stated above(cuts on ~3500rpm, cuts off after u enter it ~3400rpm if u slow down again IIRC)
also the timing belt, if you're due probably would help a bit, since it stretches over time and could cause timing to go off slightly therefore getting your mileage down...
synthetic oils(trans, engine oil) can help but the difference is minimal, and for the price difference, probably not worth it(if u're ONLY doing it for the mileage)
you could pay to get a intake/fuel system cleaning(or do one yourself)
also definetly do not lead foot(the only thing u wanna do in a RA), most times i go 1-2-3-5, and dont even shift into 4th, just to get to 5th quicker and get keep the rpms down...and sometimes skip 2nd(but not regularly)...
actually i read in a magazine once(car and driver IIRC), you really don't need the power from all your gears around town, it just makes it smoother to drive, if u go 1-3-5(then 6 if u have it) and dont leadfoot, u'll get the best mileage u can provided all maintenance is up to date...
also alignment can bring your mileage down by causing the tires to drag down the road if they're not adjusted properly, but unless your alignment is horrible, it wont be noticeable...and u'll pay a ton in tires, from wear, before youll worry about your mileage...u'll need the mileage so u dont go thru a set or 2 in a month(yes, ive seen it happen, and they still didint get an alignment, they just sold the car lol)
for the tire pressures as it was mentioned previously...yea it will cause premature wear of the tires, but honestly u'll most likely have to replace them for something else before it's worn bad enough from the overinflation...i have ran my tires at 40psi since i've started driving in all 3 of my cars and both of my wife's cars over the years and both our motorcycles, but ive replaced more tires from alignment wear, or damage than EVER from overinflation wear...
and me being a mechanic(for 6 years) same goes for customer cars, ive seen the wear but honestly it's not something to really worry about, i change tires almost on a daily basis on customer's cars(wether it's 1, 2, 3or all 4..), and never once have i had to replace a tire solely because of overinflation wear...
and im not 100% if they're offered but now some brands have low rolling resistane tires, wich create less drag onto the road as u drive giving u a slightly better mileage
Last edited by nekkidlad; Feb 8, 2013 at 12:08 PM.
Feb 8, 2013, 12:06 PM
#18
a tune is different than tune-up
tune is ussually for performance(sometimes for mileage), where the parameters for fuel, air and spark are adjusted
tune-up is where you change your spark plugs, air filter etc(maintenance items), and make your car run "as it did from the factory"...
and most times in a tune-up ull want an intake and fuel system cleaning, cleans up any built up carbon deposits on the intake, valves, injectors etc, allowing air and fuel to travel through and into the combustion chamber better and easier as it did from the factory
ps: on almost all new cars a tune up is only plugs and air filter(wires if it's not coil on plug, wich our cars are)
tune is ussually for performance(sometimes for mileage), where the parameters for fuel, air and spark are adjusted
tune-up is where you change your spark plugs, air filter etc(maintenance items), and make your car run "as it did from the factory"...
and most times in a tune-up ull want an intake and fuel system cleaning, cleans up any built up carbon deposits on the intake, valves, injectors etc, allowing air and fuel to travel through and into the combustion chamber better and easier as it did from the factory
ps: on almost all new cars a tune up is only plugs and air filter(wires if it's not coil on plug, wich our cars are)
Last edited by nekkidlad; Feb 8, 2013 at 12:09 PM.
Feb 8, 2013, 06:11 PM
#19
sure they do...it's a little bag on the pump itself, looks like a little fine mesh dime bag, because it's an in-tank pump, the filter has to be on it, so as not to send rust and debree into the injectors...you can just pull the pump out, take the little bag off and clean it.
Feb 8, 2013, 08:28 PM
#20
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im pretty sure our cars dont have fuel filters...
but defenetly i'd suggest getting new air filter(or cleaning it if it's cleanable), spark plugs and a valve adjustment if u havent done one...stay out of mivec as stated above(cuts on ~3500rpm, cuts off after u enter it ~3400rpm if u slow down again IIRC)
also the timing belt, if you're due probably would help a bit, since it stretches over time and could cause timing to go off slightly therefore getting your mileage down...
synthetic oils(trans, engine oil) can help but the difference is minimal, and for the price difference, probably not worth it(if u're ONLY doing it for the mileage)
you could pay to get a intake/fuel system cleaning(or do one yourself)
also definetly do not lead foot(the only thing u wanna do in a RA), most times i go 1-2-3-5, and dont even shift into 4th, just to get to 5th quicker and get keep the rpms down...and sometimes skip 2nd(but not regularly)...
actually i read in a magazine once(car and driver IIRC), you really don't need the power from all your gears around town, it just makes it smoother to drive, if u go 1-3-5(then 6 if u have it) and dont leadfoot, u'll get the best mileage u can provided all maintenance is up to date...
also alignment can bring your mileage down by causing the tires to drag down the road if they're not adjusted properly, but unless your alignment is horrible, it wont be noticeable...and u'll pay a ton in tires, from wear, before youll worry about your mileage...u'll need the mileage so u dont go thru a set or 2 in a month(yes, ive seen it happen, and they still didint get an alignment, they just sold the car lol)
for the tire pressures as it was mentioned previously...yea it will cause premature wear of the tires, but honestly u'll most likely have to replace them for something else before it's worn bad enough from the overinflation...i have ran my tires at 40psi since i've started driving in all 3 of my cars and both of my wife's cars over the years and both our motorcycles, but ive replaced more tires from alignment wear, or damage than EVER from overinflation wear...
and me being a mechanic(for 6 years) same goes for customer cars, ive seen the wear but honestly it's not something to really worry about, i change tires almost on a daily basis on customer's cars(wether it's 1, 2, 3or all 4..), and never once have i had to replace a tire solely because of overinflation wear...
and im not 100% if they're offered but now some brands have low rolling resistane tires, wich create less drag onto the road as u drive giving u a slightly better mileage
but defenetly i'd suggest getting new air filter(or cleaning it if it's cleanable), spark plugs and a valve adjustment if u havent done one...stay out of mivec as stated above(cuts on ~3500rpm, cuts off after u enter it ~3400rpm if u slow down again IIRC)
also the timing belt, if you're due probably would help a bit, since it stretches over time and could cause timing to go off slightly therefore getting your mileage down...
synthetic oils(trans, engine oil) can help but the difference is minimal, and for the price difference, probably not worth it(if u're ONLY doing it for the mileage)
you could pay to get a intake/fuel system cleaning(or do one yourself)
also definetly do not lead foot(the only thing u wanna do in a RA), most times i go 1-2-3-5, and dont even shift into 4th, just to get to 5th quicker and get keep the rpms down...and sometimes skip 2nd(but not regularly)...
actually i read in a magazine once(car and driver IIRC), you really don't need the power from all your gears around town, it just makes it smoother to drive, if u go 1-3-5(then 6 if u have it) and dont leadfoot, u'll get the best mileage u can provided all maintenance is up to date...
also alignment can bring your mileage down by causing the tires to drag down the road if they're not adjusted properly, but unless your alignment is horrible, it wont be noticeable...and u'll pay a ton in tires, from wear, before youll worry about your mileage...u'll need the mileage so u dont go thru a set or 2 in a month(yes, ive seen it happen, and they still didint get an alignment, they just sold the car lol)
for the tire pressures as it was mentioned previously...yea it will cause premature wear of the tires, but honestly u'll most likely have to replace them for something else before it's worn bad enough from the overinflation...i have ran my tires at 40psi since i've started driving in all 3 of my cars and both of my wife's cars over the years and both our motorcycles, but ive replaced more tires from alignment wear, or damage than EVER from overinflation wear...
and me being a mechanic(for 6 years) same goes for customer cars, ive seen the wear but honestly it's not something to really worry about, i change tires almost on a daily basis on customer's cars(wether it's 1, 2, 3or all 4..), and never once have i had to replace a tire solely because of overinflation wear...
and im not 100% if they're offered but now some brands have low rolling resistane tires, wich create less drag onto the road as u drive giving u a slightly better mileage
i'm just wondering about the 1-3-5 shifting. so if i'm skipping 2 and 4, when should i upshift? i'm thinking it's gonna have to be around 3k rpm so that i don't bog the engine down going too high on the gear?
thank u so much again for all the input! this is amazing! the things i learn everyday about my beloved RA
right now, she's all cozy in my garage since Toronto is covered in WHITE S**T i swear the snow is up to my knees here!!!
Feb 8, 2013, 08:30 PM
#21
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sure they do...it's a little bag on the pump itself, looks like a little fine mesh dime bag, because it's an in-tank pump, the filter has to be on it, so as not to send rust and debree into the injectors...you can just pull the pump out, take the little bag off and clean it.
so many things to do with my RA 
i'm loving it tho! learning so much here @ EvoM
Feb 8, 2013, 08:32 PM
#22
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i'm also wondering if i'm able to do the alignment myself DIY style or would i have to bring it to a mechanic shop to do it? hmm sounds like a nice little discussion
Feb 10, 2013, 07:21 AM
#24
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Hmm this CEL keeps coming up for me and now I can't tell what the culprit is. I'm not even @ 3/4 my tank and it's already on. Does P0441 affect my mileage or anything else in my car? Performance, safety, etc?
Feb 11, 2013, 06:41 AM
#25
wow this is a lot of information bro thanks so much
i'm just wondering about the 1-3-5 shifting. so if i'm skipping 2 and 4, when should i upshift? i'm thinking it's gonna have to be around 3k rpm so that i don't bog the engine down going too high on the gear?
thank u so much again for all the input! this is amazing! the things i learn everyday about my beloved RA
right now, she's all cozy in my garage since Toronto is covered in WHITE S**T i swear the snow is up to my knees here!!!
i'm just wondering about the 1-3-5 shifting. so if i'm skipping 2 and 4, when should i upshift? i'm thinking it's gonna have to be around 3k rpm so that i don't bog the engine down going too high on the gear?
thank u so much again for all the input! this is amazing! the things i learn everyday about my beloved RA
right now, she's all cozy in my garage since Toronto is covered in WHITE S**T i swear the snow is up to my knees here!!!
and yea....~2750-3k rpm or so is when i shift anyway wether i skip 2nd or not...it doesnt really bog the engine down too far anyway
sure they do...it's a little bag on the pump itself, looks like a little fine mesh dime bag, because it's an in-tank pump, the filter has to be on it, so as not to send rust and debree into the injectors...you can just pull the pump out, take the little bag off and clean it.
i meant to say an inline serviceable filter that you can remove/replace as normal maintenance
i'd personally not trust one tho, specially if you dont KNOW what you're doing, unless for example you just replaced a tierod, control arm or sumn and are gonna go get a alignment but need to get it relatively straight to get to the shop...(but thats technically not an alignment)
even w/ the alignment machine sometimes it's not 100% and u need to redo it a 1 or 2 times before ur actually done aligning it...
because of the fact you can't always pull on 100% straight and even tho the machine compensates it still has a margin of error..so sometimes it won't be 100% straight regardless but it'll be super close
so like crans said...you can half *** it so it's relatively straight, then go to a shop is the most reliable
Last edited by nekkidlad; Feb 11, 2013 at 06:46 AM.
Feb 11, 2013, 07:57 AM
#26
i knew what you were getting at, my reply was for the sake of the noobs...i don't think you can buy the filter either, it comes as part of the pump assembly...an inline filter would be pointless cause the sock filter proctects the pump itself as much as it does the injectors, so it needs to be there...
Feb 11, 2013, 08:22 AM
#27
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i knew what you were getting at, my reply was for the sake of the noobs...i don't think you can buy the filter either, it comes as part of the pump assembly...an inline filter would be pointless cause the sock filter proctects the pump itself as much as it does the injectors, so it needs to be there...
so using the 1-3-5 technique i got 130km @ 3/4
the CEL is on and i really think i need a tune-up..
btw i noticed that when the clutch is engaged (not stepping on it), the rpm goes down by around 100rpm+/- and when i disengage (stepping on it) the rpm goes back up..
is this because of my messed up TOB/transmission?
my RA is surviving this winter weather and i'm so happy
when spring/summer comes around, gonna give her a nice "spa treatment" (fix a bunch of issues, full service, etc)..
i can't wait
