I agree. That's one thing that needs to be done by a pro. If imroperly done it can cause excessive tire wear and added wear on suspension components....

 

They are just being lazy, don't settle for a half a job. Print this out go to a dealer buy the parts circled in red X 2 "1 for each side" then go back and tell them you want the job finished. If you paid fro a 4 wheel alignment you should get one.

 

Thank you guys for everything! So helpful!!

 

No problemo. It's sort of why the community is here

 

Hi all,

I have a similar issue for a Lancer ES 2002, with rear lower arms which are really noisy. Noise comes from the bushing where the arm attaches to the frame in the center of the car (where the camber bolt goes into).
I can free the two bolts connecting the strut and trailing arm, and I think I can get the camber bolt out.

If I change the arm, do I need to adjust anything if I put everything back in the same position?
Do you need to lock the camber bolt with weight on the wheel ...? (you need to tighten the other two wheel on the wheel). I read in the FSM that you can damage the wheel bearing if the camber bolt is not tightened, how come...?

Thanks for your help.
Peace.
Loic

 

bolc, if you change your arms you should get an alignment.

 

Sure it would be better.

Do you think the camber can be adjusted if the toe bolt is not/cannot be adjusted ? (frozen toe bolt for example)

The right lower arm has a stuck bolt (that connecting to trailing), I can saw it as I did for the strut bolt before, to change the arm. I may also change the camber bolts with new ones.

But if I go doing all this and changing both arms, I need to make sure that the camber can be adjusted without having to unfasten/cut rusted-like-hell toe bolts the shops will not even try to move ...

What do you think?

 

camber is adjusted and set before toe-in, so if you set the camber, and the toe-in is within spec, you don't need to change it...

 

if its seized its not the bolt thats the issue...its the control arm..because if you heat up the bolt its just gonna melt the rubber in the bushing(or just make it so it rips when u adjust it, if it isn't already...causing squeaks, clunks and sagging), because the bolt is seized to the metal sleeve on the control arm wich is part of the bushing...you'll need to remove the bolt and put in a new bushing...and to get the seized bolt and bushing out 90% of times you have to destroy the arm in some way...also you or the shop that works on the car be VERY careful w/ the torch if you're using one...the fuel tank is only ~2in inches away and theres no heat shields or anything to protect it, not to mention normal fire hazard warnings(don't set the car on fire etc etc)

you are higly likely gonna have to do like me, and just replace all the rear suspension...i spent ~$330 for all the parts online(and since i installed it myself labor was free but im sure they'd probably tell you another $400 or so at a shop...maybe more)...plus alignment(alsmo me, also free)...plus tires depending how worn out they are(wich mine were low on tread anyway so i replaced them too for another $450ish...again, free labor by me)...i bought the car i ~3.5 years ago and always knew it didnt quite ride like it should...now it feels like im driving a new car...no more squeaks, no more clunks, no more lowered rear end, no more excessive tire wear...

i replaced the rear upper control arms(flat and U shaped) and rear lower control arms(the arm your strut and sway bar links bolt to), and the trailing arms(looks like a dogbone) and all hardware(4 camber bolts w/ camber washers and nuts, 2 washers, and about 6 more nuts and bolts), and applied liberal ammounts of anti-seize compound to EVERYTHING...i didn't need all the hardware, but figured might as well since im in there anyway, it just gives me higher probability of not having it seize up again later

took me about 4 hours to get the arms off(being a mechanic for a living, working in a shop and using a lift and airtools, etc...) and back on, and about another ~30 mins for alignment...(still slightly off in front tho, but i need another inner tierod so it'll be off till i get a new one)

i would recommend unless you have a weekend and all the tools, and some experience a shop would have, just take it to a shop...or deal w/ it