OP, did you not test drive the car before you bought it? I hope you got a really good deal.

 

i got a really good deal with it..and yes i test drove it but didn't hear any of these things i feel sorry for myself but i'm willing to work on this car because i'm in love with it lol i low balled him and got the car for $4500 all-in-all..still comes with the 3-year warranty for everything important and he did the certification, e-test and safety on it so by law he should be responsible for any mechanical problems that arises i'm so happy i got this car! i see people selling their 2004+ RAs for $6000+ and it doesn't even come with anything special i can't wait to get started! as soon as the rain goes away and it's all warm and dry i'm gonna start working on this baby for now my tight garage should do so cranswick..you up for some pizza and beer sometime this month? let me know bro! i also want to see your RA

thanks for all the help guys! i don't usually talk this much in a forum but i feel very welcome and encouraged because of you guys so THANKS AGAIN FOR EVERYTHING!!!

gotta go to walmart and shop for fluids now

 

@cranswick: what does "bleeding brakes and clutch" mean? lol sorry i'm such a noob

 

When you bleed the brake system or clutch slave, you basically pump (for brakes) or push in the pedal once (for the clutch), hold it down while a second person opens the bleeder valve and let's fluid pour out. Then you shut it, and repeat. By bleeding the systems you make sure to get all the air (if any) out of the lines. You don't want air in the systems at all as it causes bad things to happen.

 

you guys make me wish i could come by for some beer and pizza and talk RA's -_-

anyway shouldn't all the work that you're going to be doing to the car be covered under the warranty? why not see what you can get the dealership to cover before spending money on the car fixing it

 

@roblaza: oooooh ok i get it lol thanks for clearing that up for me i learn something new everyday! btw where's the bleeder valve located? i'm going to try and search for it but if i don't find anything i guess i'll just ask again thanks again man!

@raikiri: yeah man you should definitely come down! lol i see you're from chicago? haha! maybe me, roblaza and cranswick can drive over with our RAs hahahaha! that'd be fun huh lol

 

OH ****!!!

i was unscrewing the valve cover and one of the screws broke off..wtf..this sucks..now the other half of the screw's thread is stuck in there..is this a hazard? i wanna take pics and upload..i'm so sad boo!!!

 

for brakes, each caliper has a nipple with an 8mm hex pattern on it, that's the bleeder valve...for the clutch, it's on the slave cylinder (clutch release cylinder), it's the little blue thing (or used to be blue) on the front of the transmission that pushes on a lever (clutch release fork) that goes inside the transmission through a dust boot...if you can find it, you'll see the bleeder valve...

If i get my passport in time i'm heading south of the border this year for buschur racing's DSM/EVO shootout in Ohio...it's in august, there will be some ridiculous cars there...

 

@cranswick: that's pretty cool man! can i come lol..i have a passport and i can cross the border anytime so just let me know if you're still going..let's drive our RAs down there and meet our evo brothers haha..that's gonna fun bro

 

btw..that screw that broke off is still there..i'm scared that it's gonna be a pain in the *** to take out..what should i do? is it okay to leave that in there?

 

No you need to get that out. If you can't get a hold of it with some needle nose pliers then you'll need a drill bit and a screw extractor. You can get it at any hardware or auto store.

On a side note you just loosen each bolt on the valve cover 1st. Don't take them out one by one,your much more likely to snap a bolt.

 

if you don't hear a crack and it starts turning, it's either already loose, or it's about to break, and you'd know if it was loose

take lanzer's advice first...if all else fails you can drill it out gradually and them ream the hole carefully until the peaks of the oustside threads are showing, then pick the leftover threads from the bolt out with a scriber/pick and then tap it...i had to do this on one of the bolts that holds the transmission onto the block...delicate and difficult process, but it's a last resort...

 

thanks for the advice guys!
i'll go to a canadian tire later and try to get a hold of a "screw extractor".
if it doesn't work, i'll try to drill it out like a pro lol!
is there a part number for that bolt?
where can i get a replacement bolt?
i'm thinking maybe i can just bring one of the other bolts over to canadian tire and ask them if they have that exact kind.
do i even need a valve cover?
i know it looks nice and all because it makes it look clean but do i need it?
would i be better off if i just don't put it back?
just a thought :P
thanks again!

 

btw i started a new thread about maintenance routines on the RA.
let me know your thoughts please
thanks a lot for all your help!!!

 

I think you're not being methodical enough about your approach to repairing the issues with your newly purchased car.

You just bought it. Bring it back to the place you bought it from, demand the problems to be repaired.

If you are within the 160'000km/10 year power-train warranty bring the car to a Mitsubishi Dealership and have them rebuild the transmission under warranty (if that's the issue).

If you are not at all mechanically inclined I would suggest that you do not start taking apart things without at least having a knowledgeable someone close by to help you with problems you may run into.