Thanks for the help truth , saved me some typing on the iPhone.

 

I hear ya, Swyping on my Droid isn't much better...

 

So while installing the Udp, I snapped a one of the four bolts that hold the pulley to the motor. would this affect drive-ability? I know I need to replace it but I don't know where get the bolt. Also how would I go about removing it?

 

I wouldn't drive it without the bolt!

Try Autozone or the dealer for a replacement.

Take one of the good bolts into Home Dept and get yourself an extraction kit (Easy Out) for that size bolt. Word of advice: take your time, slow down, and be gentle, you don't want to do damage to the threads in the block when doing this. Center punch the broken bolt, drill a pilot hole for the extractor, remove bolt, install new bolt, easy on the torque (25 N·m, +/- 4) = 16-22 ft/lbs ( http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Con...sh-Metric.html). If you don't have a torque wrench, move your hand as close to the bolt as you can as to not use the handle for too much torque. As you found out, they can't take much!

Here is one of many how-to videos on removing a bolt from an engine block:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?nomobile=1&v=A7ftJTUbp4o

 

I have run an EVO for 10k+ miles with 3 bolts instead of 4.

This is actually going into the crank so unless you have some really crazy tap set you should be ok to drill and tap. I have chased threads with a tap before on the flywheel side of the crank and been just fine. Just don't get a tap set from sears or autozone. Find a good tap.

 

Again, "I" wouldn't drive with three.

Two Questions:

1. "Why would you drive with three bolts if you're familiar with this procedure, to include "tapping"...

2. " Why do you suggest "tapping" when we're talking about removing a broken bolt with an Easy Out?"

 

My success with easy outs in this type of situation are quite low. Based on how I read it the bolt snapped off cleanly with the crank. When they snap off cleanly it is usually better to drill and tap.

I drove with 3 bolts because, well I forgot about it and there were things more pressing to worry about like more power

The 3 bolt issue was fixed when I pulled the motor to build it!

Lastly I would suggest getting only the OEM bolt. It has a lock washer and a washer and is a OEM type 8 bolt which means something to the Mitsubishi engineers.

 

For keithislegit's benefit, who appears to need some helpful guidance...

I'm going to assume that what Mitsujoe is referring to is, because the size of the bolt is small, it is difficult to drill a pilot hole in said bolt thus backing it out with an Easy Out. Alternatively, you'll have to drill out the broken bolt, which will more than likely damage the threads in the block. This will require you to "chase" the hole with the tapping tool, which may or may not, save the original threading. If it does then you can use the OEM bolts, if not, and you still want to use the OEM size bolt, then you'll have to drill the appropriate size hole to accept a helicoil insert (special tool required) which allows you to maintain that size. Otherwise, you can tap that now larger hole to accommodate a larger bolt size.

Keithislegit, unless you're comfortable with all this, I'd let a shop do it for you.

 

More power, more torque on the crank pulley (being held on with three bolts), which drives accessories, ie; alternator, water pump, fuel pump, etc., thus providing major requirements for engine to function...

Sounds like the "power" is getting the best of you.

 

Thanks for all the help and yes the bolt snapped off clean with the crank. There's no way I could get a grip on the bolt at all. I'll attempt to try to get it out with the easy out but I read that a lot of people werent successful with it. When school starts in a few weeks, ill try to ask my shop teacher to see if he could help me out. Another question I have is what if you put the pulley belt on wrong? Lol. I'm not 100% sure if I layed it out right but it looks right.

 

 

when i broke a bolt off in my block i has to drill it out completely, ream it to the peaks of the threads, pick all the bolt threads out with a scribe, and then tap it...

 

Information added on post #53...

 

And sarcasm was getting the best of me here. Although the fuel pump is electric and I had already removed the AC off from the car so one less belt driven accessory to boot.

Based on the feeling of the OP I would say he should work with someone to assist with a drill and tap.

 

Yes, the fuel pump is electric, and the alternator provides the electricity to charge the battery, that operates the fuel pump, Curious, what size serpentine belt did you use after you eliminated the A/C?

I agree...keithislegit is wise to seek help from his school shop advisor.