MACattack

So I'm working on my '05 Ralliart attempting to install the RRM underdrive pulley. All was going according to plan until it came time to remove the stock pulley. I removed the 4 bolts as per the instructions and began my work. By hand, not a chance. Tap around it with a hammer maybe shake it loose, nope. Spray in some wd-40 multiple times, rig up a ghetto puller and try, nope. First attempt with the puller I drilled and tapped two 1/4"-20 holes into the stock pulley. The 1/4"-20 bolt stripped the pulley hole threads and ripped out of the pulley when loaded. So I tried 4 bolts (you can see what I mean in the puller pic) and again not a freakin' millimeter would this damn pulley move.

I searched the forums and the only issues I see ppl having are with the tensioner (which I found very easy to do by myself..) but nobody mentioning that the pulley removal was a problem. What gives? How'd you guys that have done this mod get the pulley off? Please help my car is dead until I finish this as I'm sure I can no longer use the stock pulley after what I've done to it.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

if it's already fubar, just smash it with a hammer, you won't hurt the crank...just don't miss, LOL!

lanzerralliart

iTrader: (15)

Or with a rubber mallet

MACattack

So the outer part of the pulley came off just now, but the inner remains firmly attached. I cannot swing a hammer at this. I hope the UDP is worth the headache here.

Raikiri

iTrader: (21)

use PB Blaster on that should take care of it

keithislegit

iTrader: (3)

PB blaster. Wd-40 is more of a rust, and adhesive removal.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

lol, hammer a chisel between the pulley and the crank maybe?? i dunno that's ****ed...

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

a cheap gear puller is what I'd try next. If not, heat the pulley with a torch, that will expand it and break the rusted connection for sure.

MACattack

Alright so I used a mini-torch lighter to heat it up as best I could and came up with a puller solution. Drilled it out sideways to stick a bolt through that the puller plate could catch on and it worked! Got the UDP install wrapped up and then proceeded with installing the piggyback ECU which was a breeze just double checking to make sure all wires are connected properly then popped in the timing box and called it a day. Let it idle 30 min and took it out for a gentle 30 min drive all is running well.

Can't comment on any gains yet as I did not drive it hard at any point or exceed 3K Rpm. I did notice that when downshifting the rpms seemed to have an easier time syncing when re-engaging the clutch. I re-call that with the stock set-up if my rpms were a little slow you could feel/hear the engine struggle to match them up with the shift.

$MIVEC$

The pulley doesn't give any gains. Less inertia is your friend

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

I feel bad posting this after reading what was encountered! But, I too just received/installed a lightweight UDP. I was told that it would require an impact gun but then was educated that it didn't and only required the removal of four bolts on the 4G69 in my '04 Lancer Ralliart Sportback A/T. Cool, I can do that!

Brought it back home, opened the hood, located the UDP, removed the RF wheel and the plastic fender liners, and had direct access to the UDP. Took a 14mm socket, loosened the four bolts (requires some manual impacting to loosen and keep the serp' belt from moving), use a 1/2" socket extension to loosen the tensioner, and removed the belt from the UDP ONLY! Finish removing the bolts, gently wiggle the old UDP loose from the crankshaft, and install the lightweight pulley. Torque the bolts to specs, replace the serp belt, and voila! 15/30 minutes to install if all goes well.

I was not able to determine the weight of the new pulley but it felt (0.5 - 1) lb. RRM's weight = one pound, whereas the OEM pulley is four pounds. Below is from Zena Racing on Ebay:

"Lightweight Crank Pulleys reduce parasitic drag placed on the crankshaft by underdriving the accessories such as Alternator, Power Steering and Air Conditioning.
Underdriving slows down the accessories to use less energy from the crankshaft but doesn't slow them down to the point the accessory operation becomes effected.
Most of the power gains are produced from the lightened weight of the crank pulley. Tests show that an average of 2.7 HP is gained from every pound of weight that is reduced from the crankshaft."

4 - 1 = 3 x 2.7 hp = 8.1 hp

Even with this, and as of yet, I can't tell a difference, but Zena's information is in the right direction.

Before:


After:

Price: $100 (left a pm on Ebay for Zena Racing and stated I thought shipping was too much. Listed at $83 + $30 shipping = $113.00)
Worth the money? Sure, why not...if you have the money.

bakuro117

iTrader: (5)

Best. Advice. Ever. LOL

So is the pulley really worth ~$120? Ive been thinking about it for a while and cant decide.

lanzerralliart

iTrader: (15)

I like my rrm udp , I got it in 2005 when they were sold for 80 bucks I haven't had a single problem with it though.

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

I bought mine, in 2012, and paid $70 (plus $30 shipping)

Resurrected RA

Does anyone have a part # for the serpentine belt used with the RRM UDP, I figure I should install the UDP it's been in my glove box for over a year...