a 1g FMIC turbo outlet j-pipe would be amazing...other than that, i have a bunch of spare parts...

just let me know if you want a set of springs, you pay shipping and their yours...

 

they're*

Ahhh I couldnt resist. hah. sorry man.

 

LOL !!

So I'm not alone then, quite a job to do on this forum though.
There, they're , their it burns my eyes reading here sometimes.

 

This?

 

yes! one of those...currently my setup is a tad "ghetto"....i'm not proud of it, but it's working quite well, it's the only section with more than 1 coupler...the rest of the piping i fabricated properly...

here's the mock up of my setup, below is that is the rest of the charge pipe

 

Lol sometimes you have to do what you have to do in order to get it to work. What's your zip so I can get a shipping quote?

 

i'm in canada...i'll PM you with details...

 

hey gregalmighty

being an axle guy at my company, I have learned something about threads haha.

I suggest you to put that b*tch that is stuck in a safe spot and you take a soft hammer and give some great hits in the direction of the threads.

Normally threads work by friction against them, and after some time they might get very hard to twist, specially when rust is there, almost to the point of failing threads if you try to remove them. That is why you never re-torque a torqued assembly (like head bolts) you should remove fully, inspect and do again. That is why normal bolts and nuts loose with vibration also.

Dont use an iron hammer or so, you might be hard on threads. Use a soft hammer in a safe spot that doesnt damage either bolts of the top assembly (you might have the assembly facing downwards) give 2 or 3 hits and try again. Repeat as needed.

Works for any threaded assembly.

Feel free to ask anything.