Originally Posted by xmaster19

Yeah I thought I wrote it somewhere in here but realize I must have deleted it somehow. Using a Vise-Grip would probably do the same job and leave the hose intact. When I found the problem, I immediately went at it and didn't put much thought into it, so cutting the hose seemed like my only option at the time. We sell hose clamps and hoses at the shop, so even if I changed the whole rubber hose, it would end up costing me less than 10 bucks.

The purpose of the EVAP system is to burn the fuel vapors found in the tank. It contributes to fuel mileage by burning more of the fuel you put in the tank and helps reduce emissions (unburnt fuel vapors are harmful too). The system works in two ways : when the car is running, the purge valve solenoid will open at times to void the tank of vaporized fuel. When the car is stopped, the systems vents to the atmosphere through a charcoal canister which filters harmful emissions. Here, you have to imagine the car parked on asphalt, during summer, at 30 Celsius. The heat causing fuel to vaporize could mean a high risk of explosion, so it needs somewhere to go, which is the charcoal canister. The part where the car is running is all ECU regulated and controlled through the purge valve solenoid. What happened with your car is the valve is stuck open, or on the way to. It likely doesn't react to ECU input anymore.

To explain why you had problems starting the car after refueling, think about all the fuel vapors caused by refueling the car. They had a straight way into your intake manifold, causing a massive flood. This is also why flooring the gas pedal helped starting the car, letting more air in to help burn the massive amount of fuel in the intake manifold, and causing it to run poorly until it was all through. Also, on fuel injected cars, flooring the gas pedal isn't something that should help in any way because it isn't technically a gas pedal, but more of an air pedal. The ecu has 100% control on the amount of fuel to be injected, the only control you have is on what amount of air goes in the intake.

Now that you understand how the system works, can you tell me what changes clamping that hose will do?

Originally Posted by JTCB

I get the concept but wouldn't clamping that hose down force all the vaporized fuel to stay in the gas tank..

Originally Posted by xmaster19

It would vent through the canister, like when the car is shut down.

Originally Posted by JTCB

So the bypass would do the trick during the winter (being cold) but would be hazardous during the summer because of the heat..!

Originally Posted by xmaster19

The bypass is designed to work in the summer, I wouldn't mind much about it.

Originally Posted by xmaster19

Follow the hose to the intake manifold. The purge valve solenoid is what you reach right before intake manifold. It's kinda hard to explain but it's bolted on the side of the intake.

It would be around here, sorry I don't have a better pic at the moment.



I'll try to take a better pic tomorrow after work.

Originally Posted by xmaster19

Follow the hose to the intake manifold. The purge valve solenoid is what you reach right before intake manifold. It's kinda hard to explain but it's bolted on the side of the intake.

It would be around here, sorry I don't have a better pic at the moment.



I'll try to take a better pic tomorrow after work.

Originally Posted by rzrxn

i haven't been able to do any of the suggestions that i have read since it's so cold outside and my garage is occupied. but i do have a quick question. when looking for the hose, is it okay if i clamp it around the area which is circled red in your pic? i still don't know what this hose would look like but do i need to jack up the car to find it?

hopefully i get around to doing this as it is really bugging me. plus now i have a weird squealing noise in my rear passenger wheel. i think it's the parking brakes or maybe the brake pads rubbing against my rotor as it might be seized. so many things to take care of--so little damn time...