yeh that right i doesn't add horse power. it alowes more hp to get from the motor to the wheels

 

your a little off on those numbers a stock WRX puts down 169.9 WHP @ 5750 RPM

heres the Dyno to show you..

http://cobbtuning.com/wrx/images/ae-stage2-dyno.jpg

 

Good to know. that means the ralliat shoud be close with just the CIA, ECU, exhaust, and flywheel. damn that WRX looses a lot between the motor and the wheels.

 

As much as I love the RA, all the mods we are talking about lets not hope the guy with the WRX decides he/she wants to and any mods to his car. IMO just go with the turbo. Run low boost driving around town and when you see your buddy crank it up and lay the smack down. The only problem I see with turbo is the money and lack of market, cause if you are worried about the 100k warranty all the mods you are talking about adding I am pretty sure Mitsu will shoot down.

 

They kind of suck for highway racing. I kept up with one for a while, but their 0 60 is great. My friend has one and I raced him on the highway. I bet the RA would do a hell of a lot better! If you know someone that has one try racing them from about 50 mph or so!

 

My friend only has intake and exhaust on it.

 

Wow, 3 pages without anybody getting real anything out of it. First thing the WRX is norotious for big HP loss to the wheels, but the might have something to do with the AWD thing. Which to sy the very least is a big advantage from a launch perspective. The RA will weight less and have less loss to the ground. The RA dynoed 144 WHP stock and the CAI, axle-back and Piggy did a good job. That alone will make it close in a 1/4 mile. The WRX may run a 14.4 stock, but that isnt with some nobody behind the wheel. That is a good driver, if not great. I have driven many WRX cars and they arent that fast. If you get the basics that are out there you will smoke a stock WRX. Our best time in here are 15.0 on stock tires with just intake and muffler. 14.0 is out there waiting to be had and that is with just about anybody. Get some good tires, flywheel, do a little more tweaking and you are golden. I have raced a WRX in my RA on the freeway and he BARELY pulled on me and I had a 230lb friend with me too. he wasnt stock, but probably wasnt heavily modded either. If that doesnt work and you dont want to boost, Nitrous Oxide isnt THAT bad an idea if you want to do it right. I dont know where anybody would get the idea that this car has weak rods, the roda are better than most cars and the pistons are better than even more than that. That has been stated over and over again in here and it should be shown with the car out there boosting 15 lbs stock block before the clutch went. The bottle is OK but not cheapp if you want to do it right which is direct port. Then 80 shot all day. But NA it is very possible.
1. CAI, cat back (I still believe that the car uses full system well)
2. Piggy back
3. flywheel
4. RRM downpipe
5. clutch cable (more firm clutch engagement)
6. Great tires
7. Stiffen up the suspension

That should be enough right there. You will get beat off the launch due to his AWD but keep on it and you should be able to pull on him by the middle of 3rd gear.

 

If the wrx's best 0-60 is 5.7, and the ralliart's is 6.9, and then road race is claiming a ful second off of that time, then all you need a 139 dollar part and you are only .2 seconds of to 60. Then just free up the exhaust a little bit, put some grounding wires on, and take out the spare tire and jack, and for really cheap, you will be able to beat a wrx to 60, and the car can still run on regular(no piggyback). Hell put that on too, and you'll kill a wrx, if you can get the power to the ground with the crappy stock tires.

 

Tell me more about these grounding wires. I know nothing about this mod.

 

These ground wires improves the smoothness of your idle, and your cars overall running. As far as gains, it has been seen to add up to 4 or 5 hp on an NA, and 2-3 TQ On a turbo I have seen up to a 12hp gain with 7 TQ. You have tp play with multiple ground points, and see what works best with your car. As far as a 139 dollar part that gives you a full second gain, that bull. You would need headers, intake, exhaust, and the piggy back to be with the wrx 0-60! But as far as highway, you would probably spank it pretty bad.

 

If there is an SRI out there that can give a car a full second gain, let me know!

 

I do not think 139$ will shave off 1 sec off the 0 to 60 time.
I have paid 240$ for the injen intake plus around 400$ for high performance tires,
and it only improved the acceleration by0.1 in the 0-60 and a quarter.

 

Joe's numbers are a little inflated. Even RRM won't make those kinds of claims to wheel HP.

As for the test pipe it kills your torque and only gains 1 or 2 ponies at the top end. You also get a ricey tin-can sound. Plus you have the whole "tampering with federally regulated emissions controls" thing to deal with. You don't care. Neither do I, really. But your state police might. Save that money for something else.

I'm not terribly familiar with the history of the Mivec- are the 2.4L engines a stroked something else? If they're made as 2.4L, then cylinder work isn't out of the question. blk_majik's info is correct for the 2.0 Lancer engine, though. We're too bored out for any reasonable displacement gains.

A better formula for finding drivetrain losses on AWD cars is 18%-18WHP That would give us 168.14 WHP which is a lot closer to the dyno'd 169.9 above.

Look in the Lancer forums for lots of NA ideas. Here's a short list:
As long as you're taking the engine apart do higher compression pistons and build the internals
Are there new cams available? Don't say "No" so fast. Has anyone asked Dave at RPW if there's an earlier generation Mivec cam grind that would work for the US Mivec?
Throttle bodies
Port the intake Mani
Weight reduction: you don't need ANY of that crap in your trunk: tire, jack, carpeting (floor and sides). For God's sake don't go buying a bigger stereo system. Who needs a rear seat? Bye bye floor mats and hello 5 pounds lost. Start jogging
Mitsumichael's suggestion of stiffer springs is a good one, especially for the rear. His better tires suggestion is good, too.
Do a search ofr grounding wires or grounding kits. I made mine for less than $20 and definitely noticed a difference. Not 4 or 5 HP, but a difference.

Don't go opening that exhaust before you open up the breathing side. Headers would be good, but a full exhaust will kill your backpressure and take HP and TQ with it.

So go read some of the US Lancer tech forums. Learn. Adapt. Win.

 

NOS.....50 wet shot

 

according to Raod & Track mag. the 0-60 time for the WRX is 5.7 sec and the Ralliart is 7.5 sec. not 6.9 (pg52 Oct. / 2003). this is where the ralliart looses the race. it is almost 2 seconds behind. Traction is a must. that is given but but the real challenge is to get the weight / horse power ratio lower then the WRX. the CAI, ECU and exhuast will bring the ralliart to 164. the WRX is only 169.9 to the wheels and it weighs a couple hundred pounds more. this gives the Ralliart the beter wt / hp ratio. so if I do this and improve my traction I might stand a chance but 2 seconds I a lot to make up. I beter master master my launches too.