No, he's likely talking about the IOD fuse, ours has 2 fuses inside a plastic cover in the underhood box. Totally different issue since he was having a bunch of other related failures.

 

So the blue wire showed good connection to ground though?

 

Correct. And thanks for helping me find the issue.

 

Cool. No worries man.

Ok, so, just to double check that the resistor (ground) side of the circuit is working perfectly now, do that same test for ohms from the blue wire to ground with the car on, but while watching the numerical readings, turn the knob to change the blower fan speed settings and make sure your resistance readings change on the multimeter.

We'll deal with the power side of the circuit tomorrow, I'm off to bed.

 

Okay well I tested the ground in volts but this time it's hard to do because my fans only kick on for a sec then go out. Even when fan speed is on bight and temp all the way low. When I first tested it the number was high then when I turned the switch it went down.

 

03 did you die bro lol.

 

Bump?

 

Lol, sorry man, life gets a lil crazy every now and then. I was actuallly saying you need to check the ground side with ohms, not volts. Then when you change the dial on the speed selector, the ohms should change on the meter, indicating that the resistor is varying resistance and functioning properly. Not the engine fans, the blower motor fan I'm still talking about

 

Got ya I will check it. So your thinking it could still be the blower motor?

 

If there's no air blowing through the vents at all, it's in the blower motor system somewhere. That's what you said was happening right?

 

right in the middle of Summer too...i feel for ya man.

 

Yeah I get nothing out of the vents at all. Nothing.

 

Ok, it's definitely in that circuit then. So check ohms on the ground circuit and get back to me

 

Okay would u like readings of the ohms ?

 

Okay when the switch is off I have the ol reading when I turn it full I'm only getting a reading of .002 to .003 Ohms