EVO or RA?
Well you can always listen to her, just realize you will have anywhere from a $600-800 payment for the Evo. If you can afford that, then I would say go for it, if you can't afford that, then just keep saving.
When i was looking to buy, the biggest sell for me was putting it in perspective, even if you were to get the RA, would you think that some day you'd be in the realm of the evo? if so forget it, just not worth the money, no reason to compare the two. Not putting anyone down, they're just not the same, and you can't buy one expecting that someday you'll be on the same level. You can mod the RA and change everything out but to what extent, money upfront is much better than dumping and dumping later on down the road trying to reach what you would of bought as a platform.
Don't settle for the ra because you're going to end up kicking yourself in the butt for it. Save nd then have your dream. Believe me if you go with the ra you'll live thinking that you should have gotten an evo 24-7. And i believe you should spend your neurons in a better way. I learned this after a few not very satisfactory buying experiences...
However, there are minor updates that are worth noting. Updated timing chain, updated diff pins, updated exhaust, texture wrapped wheel, fixed staple issue on recaros, updated tune from the factory, updated disc brakes (from the 08 gsr), and ralliart / black tailights, color hud.
Not to mention you get a warranty (long as you don't mod it) with a new car, and you can most likely kiss a warranty from
good bye on a used one
Thats sounds like a lot of minor things lol. Im planning to keep it stock for awhile. I hope. I actually got a quote for 2.9 for 60 month and 3.9 for 72 month. There is a 0 for 36 month but no way I can afford that.
A yr and a half ago, I went and got exactly what i wanted which was a Ph blk 2010 MR Touring Brand new $42K w/ 1.9 apr (after driving a '98 ford contour w/ 66k miles for 7.5 yrs) had to have it trucked to me from AZ to SD. Then six months later fell on hard times and was looking to trade in(downgrade) to a Ralliart cause i wanted to keep the 4B11T and AWD. But i was looking at what the Ralliart came with and was like F - that im not downgrading. So i just stuck it out as long as all the bills were paid and the kids were taking care of, i can eat noddles for awhile. Now 8 mos later still got the MR and money is back to where it needs to be. But what im saying is even if you do get to that point were your good to get the car you want, things can happen that will make question why you bought the car. But at the end what matters most is are you happy with what you did.....
ALso cheaper isnt always better when buying a car two things are the most important when it comes to how much your paying ..... Cost of vehicle and APR.
If cost of car is low but APR is high = Fail
If cost of car is low but APR is low = Win
If cost of car is high but APR is low = BOTH (you'll pay off interest within a few months, as i did )
ALso cheaper isnt always better when buying a car two things are the most important when it comes to how much your paying ..... Cost of vehicle and APR.
If cost of car is low but APR is high = Fail
If cost of car is low but APR is low = Win
If cost of car is high but APR is low = BOTH (you'll pay off interest within a few months, as i did )
Last edited by EXcel4600c; Feb 15, 2012 at 09:39 AM.
2.9 on a 60 mo is not bad at all. Right now I am at a 4.24 on my current car.






