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Old Aug 14, 2009, 03:25 PM
  #31  
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The aluminum fuel door is a factory option, some have 'em some don't.

As for rolling the fenders, it all depends on the wheels you get, stock should be fine. Wider will likely require a roll.
Old Aug 14, 2009, 03:35 PM
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^ anything bigger than 225, you will need to be rolled.
Old Aug 15, 2009, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Piper747
My shop would be myself. I am pretty sure it is done right. Not much to it really. I don't know what I could have done to make it end up lower than it should be. I also had the supervision of a mechanic uncle. I had no issues during the install and it seems to ride just fine. I had to wait three extra weeks for the springs to come in since RRM said they were out of stock and were waiting for a new batch. Maybe this batch is slightly different than the last.
how long did the whole thing take to do? was it hard to do?
Old Aug 15, 2009, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by xdemoulasx
how long did the whole thing take to do? was it hard to do?
It took about 3 hours. Once the tires are removed it is obvious what needs to be done. The only specialized tool required is a spring compressor (about 20 bucks). An impact is useful but not necessary. Once the strut is out, just compress the spring and remove the 1 nut that secures the end of the strut. Just put it together the way it came apart. Simple.
Old Aug 15, 2009, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Piper747
It took about 3 hours. Once the tires are removed it is obvious what needs to be done. The only specialized tool required is a spring compressor (about 20 bucks). An impact is useful but not necessary. Once the strut is out, just compress the spring and remove the 1 nut that secures the end of the strut. Just put it together the way it came apart. Simple.

cool, thanks. i might try this out. my robispec springs are too stiff for the roads around here, so i might decide to go back to stock.
Old Aug 15, 2009, 10:51 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Piper747
It took about 3 hours. Once the tires are removed it is obvious what needs to be done. The only specialized tool required is a spring compressor (about 20 bucks). An impact is useful but not necessary. Once the strut is out, just compress the spring and remove the 1 nut that secures the end of the strut. Just put it together the way it came apart. Simple.
Have you seen Smike's post here? https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/7372080-post197.html

Did you do the alignment yourself too?
Old Aug 15, 2009, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Piper747
dmun505 that looks really slick!



No fender rolling. I don't know it if I will need to once I change the wheels. I really don't want to have to.
thanks man! didnt mean to thread jack, just wanted to show other angles for more reference.

and i did all the work myself guys.
Old Aug 15, 2009, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by dfo
Did you do the alignment yourself too?
No no.. I have an appointment early next week to have an alignment done.
Old Aug 16, 2009, 03:50 AM
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How's the ride quality.
Old Aug 16, 2009, 11:15 AM
  #40  
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The ride is still decent. I would not want it any rougher for a DD though. Disregarding pot holes and railroad crossings its not much less comfortable that stock. I have noticed a big improvement with cornering. If I didn't have to turn the wheel, I would forget I wasn't going straight!
Old Aug 16, 2009, 12:12 PM
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Good to hear this improves cornering without worsening ride too much on Canadian roads. I'm looking forward to hearing how it fares through the winter.
Old Aug 16, 2009, 08:20 PM
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Awsome
Old Aug 16, 2009, 09:45 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by piper747
the ride is still decent. I would not want it any rougher for a dd though. Disregarding pot holes and railroad crossings its not much less comfortable that stock. I have noticed a big improvement with cornering. If i didn't have to turn the wheel, i would forget i wasn't going straight!:d

+1
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