Coilover recommendations
Mar 11, 2011, 07:06 AM
#17
There are 2 things that you could be:
1). If you really are a dead on novice, you have a lot of research to do. I have been modifying cars for 6 or 7 years now (I know, NOGAF). I remember a time when I knew almost nothing, too. I started out by reading everything that I could get my hands on. I didn't touch my car until I knew what I was doing. However, don't expect people on here to hold your hand through it. If you don't even know what coilovers are, don't buy them. You will see options like 2 and 4-way adjustable and have no clue what any of that means or why you do or do not need it. I would say use the Search feature, but you really need to start browsing the interwebz. There is a lot of information out there. I have provided a lot of good stuff in the thread in my Signature. Read that.
2). If you are a troll, which I have a sneaking suspicion that you are, please leave. I am not sure why you would bother with the Ralliart section. Mad_SB, I would make sure that his IP doesn't match Westbound or SecondChance. If they do, PERMABAN!
I didn't mean to come off as a dick. There are just a lot of trolls that frequent this site, now a days. I'm not sure what it is.
1). If you really are a dead on novice, you have a lot of research to do. I have been modifying cars for 6 or 7 years now (I know, NOGAF). I remember a time when I knew almost nothing, too. I started out by reading everything that I could get my hands on. I didn't touch my car until I knew what I was doing. However, don't expect people on here to hold your hand through it. If you don't even know what coilovers are, don't buy them. You will see options like 2 and 4-way adjustable and have no clue what any of that means or why you do or do not need it. I would say use the Search feature, but you really need to start browsing the interwebz. There is a lot of information out there. I have provided a lot of good stuff in the thread in my Signature. Read that.
2). If you are a troll, which I have a sneaking suspicion that you are, please leave. I am not sure why you would bother with the Ralliart section. Mad_SB, I would make sure that his IP doesn't match Westbound or SecondChance. If they do, PERMABAN!
I didn't mean to come off as a dick. There are just a lot of trolls that frequent this site, now a days. I'm not sure what it is.
Mar 11, 2011, 07:22 AM
#19
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should be shipped out early next week.I Had V3's on my VIII and I loved every minute of them. Bu the fact that the V2's cannot accept custom rates was a major turn off for me.
Mar 11, 2011, 08:10 AM
#20
The reason I am considering coilovers regardless of price is because I'm not keen on waiting for someone to make a set of adjustable shocks for our car. While having just lowering springs is very cost effective, yes it does hamper the overall ride quality and handling a bit since they're still on the stock shocks/struts. With coilovers, I have many options as to what I want in my ride quality and handling, what height I want it at, etc. I do like spirited backroad driving as well. If I'm going to do some modding with the power of this car, might as well have a suspension setup that can keep up with it as well. I'm willing to spend the $1K+ for a nice set of coilovers, but I just won't be getting anything made for the racetrack.
Mar 11, 2011, 10:52 AM
#21
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There are multiple coilovers out there and recently I have gotten the change to review them after abusive testing. There are kits I love, kits I like and kits I want nothing to do with. The one kit I am in love with is the hsd coilovers. Simply the most durable kit out there today. That said tein is great so long as you understand the limitations of each kit type. The basic are just that basic. But perform well and for a long time if used correctly. KW has a high cost but ur getting what you pay for. A good kit with street cred. And proven.
Mar 11, 2011, 11:06 AM
#23
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The reason I am considering coilovers regardless of price is because I'm not keen on waiting for someone to make a set of adjustable shocks for our car. While having just lowering springs is very cost effective, yes it does hamper the overall ride quality and handling a bit since they're still on the stock shocks/struts. With coilovers, I have many options as to what I want in my ride quality and handling, what height I want it at, etc. I do like spirited backroad driving as well. If I'm going to do some modding with the power of this car, might as well have a suspension setup that can keep up with it as well. I'm willing to spend the $1K+ for a nice set of coilovers, but I just won't be getting anything made for the racetrack.
The main factors in my decision were:
1. Lower the ride Height
2. Dial in a proper amount of negative camber to help reduce the push
3. Up the rear spring rates to further reduce the push
I figured I could spend 500 - 600 on springs, camber correction kits, and bars or spend 1,000 - 1,300 on a decent set of coils.
One thing I found very interesting about the hotbits info was the discussion of spring rates. The rates they quotes me seemed very low and when I asked if he could expand on the reasoning behind the spring rate choice the paraphrased answer was:
Japanese and Chinese coilovers (and sports cars in general) tend to be over sprung and under dammped. Where as the European approach is just the opposite, they tend be sprung MUCH lighter and control body motion via uprated dampers. Also, many of the Euro brands are TUV approved, something that cannot be said for most of the Japanese and Chinese brands.
A little bit on TUV approval:
TUV certification involves rigorous testing of the applications for which the component is designed. It includes verification that the device satisfies the strictest European regulations for the industry in which the component was designed for and ensures the component specifications are stated correctly. Periodic retesting of the component is required to maintain TUV approval and the certification is without question the most comprehensive testing any product would undergo.
Unfortunately, I had already ordered the BC's when I spoke with the guy from hotbits... If the BC's turn out to be too harsh I'll be going with HotBits, the price is not too much higher than the KW V2's and they will work with you to select your spring rates.
Mar 11, 2011, 11:18 AM
#24
Yeah, I have some good info to post from one of the engineers at hotbits but Have not gotten around to formatting and cleaning it up.
The main factors in my decision were:
1. Lower the ride Height
2. Dial in a proper amount of negative camber to help reduce the push
3. Up the rear spring rates to further reduce the push
I figured I could spend 500 - 600 on springs, camber correction kits, and bars or spend 1,000 - 1,300 on a decent set of coils.
One thing I found very interesting about the hotbits info was the discussion of spring rates. The rates they quotes me seemed very low and when I asked if he could expand on the reasoning behind the spring rate choice the paraphrased answer was:
Japanese and Chinese coilovers (and sports cars in general) tend to be over sprung and under dammped. Where as the European approach is just the opposite, they tend be sprung MUCH lighter and control body motion via uprated dampers. Also, many of the Euro brands are TUV approved, something that cannot be said for most of the Japanese and Chinese brands.
A little bit on TUV approval:
TUV certification involves rigorous testing of the applications for which the component is designed. It includes verification that the device satisfies the strictest European regulations for the industry in which the component was designed for and ensures the component specifications are stated correctly. Periodic retesting of the component is required to maintain TUV approval and the certification is without question the most comprehensive testing any product would undergo.
Unfortunately, I had already ordered the BC's when I spoke with the guy from hotbits... If the BC's turn out to be too harsh I'll be going with HotBits, the price is not too much higher than the KW V2's and they will work with you to select your spring rates.
The main factors in my decision were:
1. Lower the ride Height
2. Dial in a proper amount of negative camber to help reduce the push
3. Up the rear spring rates to further reduce the push
I figured I could spend 500 - 600 on springs, camber correction kits, and bars or spend 1,000 - 1,300 on a decent set of coils.
One thing I found very interesting about the hotbits info was the discussion of spring rates. The rates they quotes me seemed very low and when I asked if he could expand on the reasoning behind the spring rate choice the paraphrased answer was:
Japanese and Chinese coilovers (and sports cars in general) tend to be over sprung and under dammped. Where as the European approach is just the opposite, they tend be sprung MUCH lighter and control body motion via uprated dampers. Also, many of the Euro brands are TUV approved, something that cannot be said for most of the Japanese and Chinese brands.
A little bit on TUV approval:
TUV certification involves rigorous testing of the applications for which the component is designed. It includes verification that the device satisfies the strictest European regulations for the industry in which the component was designed for and ensures the component specifications are stated correctly. Periodic retesting of the component is required to maintain TUV approval and the certification is without question the most comprehensive testing any product would undergo.
Unfortunately, I had already ordered the BC's when I spoke with the guy from hotbits... If the BC's turn out to be too harsh I'll be going with HotBits, the price is not too much higher than the KW V2's and they will work with you to select your spring rates.
Mar 11, 2011, 11:32 AM
#25
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Even just from feel, the European (specifically BMW & Audi) approach is soft springs, slightly over damped but stiffer bars (versus the high spring rates, small bars and wimpy damping of Japanese-designed items). Magazines and shows explain it away as being due to the glass-smooth asian roads compared to the varied surfaces in Europe.
Also, many of the Euro brands are TUV approved, something that cannot be said for most of the Japanese and Chinese brands.
A little bit on TUV approval:
TUV certification involves rigorous testing of the applications for which the component is designed. It includes verification that the device satisfies the strictest European regulations for the industry in which the component was designed for and ensures the component specifications are stated correctly. Periodic retesting of the component is required to maintain TUV approval and the certification is without question the most comprehensive testing any product would undergo.
A little bit on TUV approval:
TUV certification involves rigorous testing of the applications for which the component is designed. It includes verification that the device satisfies the strictest European regulations for the industry in which the component was designed for and ensures the component specifications are stated correctly. Periodic retesting of the component is required to maintain TUV approval and the certification is without question the most comprehensive testing any product would undergo.
More succinctly, a TUV cert is equivalent to a DOT cert. A lot of products cannot get TUV cert because they are "off-road use only", like a test pipe, and that is not necessarily a reflection of quality.
That being said, at least in my experience, I prefer the softer sprung approach (my FK's did not follow the European mold as it were, as they were incredibly stiffly sprung and slightly underdamped).
Last edited by majinfajita; Mar 11, 2011 at 11:34 AM.
Mar 11, 2011, 12:08 PM
#27
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KW Does not make the clubsport for the ralliart, according to them two days ago:
I'm in process of gathering all the info I can from all the coilover manufacturers I can to create a sticky of coilover options
Code:
---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Dallas Brandt <xxxxxxx> Date: Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 12:49 PM Subject: RE: 15265019 - KW Coilover Kit V2 Mitsubishi Lancer CY0 To: Bruce Herring <xxxxxx> Hello Bruce, right now, we only have a V2 for that application. I looked on my list of cars they are doing in Germany, I don’t see a clubsport, but that list is a couple months old, it could be in their thoughts. Only time will tell. Yes, then you could change spring rates. Glad to hear you are a happy customer! Dallas Brandt
http://www.tunershop.com/Suspensions...h26_m7235.html
Mar 11, 2011, 12:13 PM
#28
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Yeah, I have some good info to post from one of the engineers at hotbits but Have not gotten around to formatting and cleaning it up.
The main factors in my decision were:
1. Lower the ride Height
2. Dial in a proper amount of negative camber to help reduce the push
3. Up the rear spring rates to further reduce the push
I figured I could spend 500 - 600 on springs, camber correction kits, and bars or spend 1,000 - 1,300 on a decent set of coils.
One thing I found very interesting about the hotbits info was the discussion of spring rates. The rates they quotes me seemed very low and when I asked if he could expand on the reasoning behind the spring rate choice the paraphrased answer was:
Japanese and Chinese coilovers (and sports cars in general) tend to be over sprung and under dammped. Where as the European approach is just the opposite, they tend be sprung MUCH lighter and control body motion via uprated dampers. Also, many of the Euro brands are TUV approved, something that cannot be said for most of the Japanese and Chinese brands.
A little bit on TUV approval:
TUV certification involves rigorous testing of the applications for which the component is designed. It includes verification that the device satisfies the strictest European regulations for the industry in which the component was designed for and ensures the component specifications are stated correctly. Periodic retesting of the component is required to maintain TUV approval and the certification is without question the most comprehensive testing any product would undergo.
Unfortunately, I had already ordered the BC's when I spoke with the guy from hotbits... If the BC's turn out to be too harsh I'll be going with HotBits, the price is not too much higher than the KW V2's and they will work with you to select your spring rates.
The main factors in my decision were:
1. Lower the ride Height
2. Dial in a proper amount of negative camber to help reduce the push
3. Up the rear spring rates to further reduce the push
I figured I could spend 500 - 600 on springs, camber correction kits, and bars or spend 1,000 - 1,300 on a decent set of coils.
One thing I found very interesting about the hotbits info was the discussion of spring rates. The rates they quotes me seemed very low and when I asked if he could expand on the reasoning behind the spring rate choice the paraphrased answer was:
Japanese and Chinese coilovers (and sports cars in general) tend to be over sprung and under dammped. Where as the European approach is just the opposite, they tend be sprung MUCH lighter and control body motion via uprated dampers. Also, many of the Euro brands are TUV approved, something that cannot be said for most of the Japanese and Chinese brands.
A little bit on TUV approval:
TUV certification involves rigorous testing of the applications for which the component is designed. It includes verification that the device satisfies the strictest European regulations for the industry in which the component was designed for and ensures the component specifications are stated correctly. Periodic retesting of the component is required to maintain TUV approval and the certification is without question the most comprehensive testing any product would undergo.
Unfortunately, I had already ordered the BC's when I spoke with the guy from hotbits... If the BC's turn out to be too harsh I'll be going with HotBits, the price is not too much higher than the KW V2's and they will work with you to select your spring rates.
Well said
Just a side note, Korean Made HSD Coilovers have TUV approval
+10000
Even just from feel, the European (specifically BMW & Audi) approach is soft springs, slightly over damped but stiffer bars (versus the high spring rates, small bars and wimpy damping of Japanese-designed items). Magazines and shows explain it away as being due to the glass-smooth asian roads compared to the varied surfaces in Europe.
Meh, TUV cert is a European thing anyways, and not a selling "feature" of non-European items, IMO. It's like an ISO cert, it only means what you want it to mean (the irony of my statement is that I am a provisional auditor for the ISO14001:2004 standard hahahaha)...a TUV cert'd FK suspension is still crappier in quality and engineering (in terms of ride and handling) compared to a non-TUV cert'd set from Japan.
More succinctly, a TUV cert is equivalent to a DOT cert. A lot of products cannot get TUV cert because they are "off-road use only", like a test pipe, and that is not necessarily a reflection of quality.
That being said, at least in my experience, I prefer the softer sprung approach (my FK's did not follow the European mold as it were, as they were incredibly stiffly sprung and slightly underdamped).
Even just from feel, the European (specifically BMW & Audi) approach is soft springs, slightly over damped but stiffer bars (versus the high spring rates, small bars and wimpy damping of Japanese-designed items). Magazines and shows explain it away as being due to the glass-smooth asian roads compared to the varied surfaces in Europe.
Meh, TUV cert is a European thing anyways, and not a selling "feature" of non-European items, IMO. It's like an ISO cert, it only means what you want it to mean (the irony of my statement is that I am a provisional auditor for the ISO14001:2004 standard hahahaha)...a TUV cert'd FK suspension is still crappier in quality and engineering (in terms of ride and handling) compared to a non-TUV cert'd set from Japan.
More succinctly, a TUV cert is equivalent to a DOT cert. A lot of products cannot get TUV cert because they are "off-road use only", like a test pipe, and that is not necessarily a reflection of quality.
That being said, at least in my experience, I prefer the softer sprung approach (my FK's did not follow the European mold as it were, as they were incredibly stiffly sprung and slightly underdamped).
My two cents
Last edited by evo_soul; Mar 11, 2011 at 12:23 PM.
