Oversteer and sway bars...
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Newbie
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 38
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From: Calgary
Oversteer and sway bars...
With the stock dunlops on, I could get the tail out via lift-off quite easy. Now with 235 T1Rs, I just cant. At an AutoX event a couple weeks ago, i was just BEATING on the car to get it out and it just wouldn't go.
Should i look to reduce under-steer, or induce over-steer more to get around the tights in a more enjoyable manner?
Anybody know if a rear sway-bar upgrade will help? Front and rear? Front only???
Should i look to reduce under-steer, or induce over-steer more to get around the tights in a more enjoyable manner?
Anybody know if a rear sway-bar upgrade will help? Front and rear? Front only???
Evolved Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 14
From: Australia
If you're after lift-off oversteer, a firmer rear swaybar could well be the go.
Cheap to buy and easy to fit, so not a lot of risk - I'm all about "minimising risk of handling screwage" when mucking about with suspension, lol.
An adjustable one will improve your odds at finding something you like the feel of.
Rich
Cheap to buy and easy to fit, so not a lot of risk - I'm all about "minimising risk of handling screwage" when mucking about with suspension, lol.
An adjustable one will improve your odds at finding something you like the feel of.
Rich
One word... "Whiteline" I have their rear 24mm and wrote a how to in the "how to" section of the forum. I'd look it up and get a mech savy friend to help you out. Its not as easy as sounds its actually a PITA to put in but its worth it.
Another thing you can do to ~reduce~ understeer is to get some front camber bolts and have an alignment shop set you up with as much negative camber as they can get evenly up there (should be relatively close to -2.0*).
If you're lowered, also get some Whiteline rear camber bushings and have said shop set you up with as little negative camber as evenly possible in the rear (i.e. get the rear as close to 0 as possible).
Next to front/rear tire inflation, camber adjustments are probably the "easiest" way to tune under/over steer. This is, of course, assuming you're at a near neutral balance state.
Yet another thing that will help, if your stock height, is to lower the car. Lowering the car will reduce the suspension stroke and theoretically reduce front/rear weight transfer. Thereby reducing the amount of weight that transitions to the rear when you "get on it" early/mid-turn and in-turn making it easier to get the rear to step out.
Finally, one thing I've noticed is "getting on it" ~mid-turn~ almost never results in oversteer for me. To get power on over steer to occur, I need to accelerate through the entire turn (start to finish). Doing this, I'll need to "catch" the car near the end of a 90* turn. But then, this experience is on lowering springs and coilovers with the GST boost pill basemap on my RASB.
If you're lowered, also get some Whiteline rear camber bushings and have said shop set you up with as little negative camber as evenly possible in the rear (i.e. get the rear as close to 0 as possible).
Next to front/rear tire inflation, camber adjustments are probably the "easiest" way to tune under/over steer. This is, of course, assuming you're at a near neutral balance state.
Yet another thing that will help, if your stock height, is to lower the car. Lowering the car will reduce the suspension stroke and theoretically reduce front/rear weight transfer. Thereby reducing the amount of weight that transitions to the rear when you "get on it" early/mid-turn and in-turn making it easier to get the rear to step out.
Finally, one thing I've noticed is "getting on it" ~mid-turn~ almost never results in oversteer for me. To get power on over steer to occur, I need to accelerate through the entire turn (start to finish). Doing this, I'll need to "catch" the car near the end of a 90* turn. But then, this experience is on lowering springs and coilovers with the GST boost pill basemap on my RASB.
The rear requires dropping the rear diff just enough to squeeze the bars between it and the subframe The front requires disconnecting the steering rack and removing the entire front subframe
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Another thing you can do to ~reduce~ understeer is to get some front camber bolts and have an alignment shop set you up with as much negative camber as they can get evenly up there (should be relatively close to -2.0*).
If you're lowered, also get some Whiteline rear camber bushings and have said shop set you up with as little negative camber as evenly possible in the rear (i.e. get the rear as close to 0 as possible).
Next to front/rear tire inflation, camber adjustments are probably the "easiest" way to tune under/over steer. This is, of course, assuming you're at a near neutral balance state.
Yet another thing that will help, if your stock height, is to lower the car. Lowering the car will reduce the suspension stroke and theoretically reduce front/rear weight transfer. Thereby reducing the amount of weight that transitions to the rear when you "get on it" early/mid-turn and in-turn making it easier to get the rear to step out.
Finally, one thing I've noticed is "getting on it" ~mid-turn~ almost never results in oversteer for me. To get power on over steer to occur, I need to accelerate through the entire turn (start to finish). Doing this, I'll need to "catch" the car near the end of a 90* turn. But then, this experience is on lowering springs and coilovers with the GST boost pill basemap on my RASB.
If you're lowered, also get some Whiteline rear camber bushings and have said shop set you up with as little negative camber as evenly possible in the rear (i.e. get the rear as close to 0 as possible).
Next to front/rear tire inflation, camber adjustments are probably the "easiest" way to tune under/over steer. This is, of course, assuming you're at a near neutral balance state.
Yet another thing that will help, if your stock height, is to lower the car. Lowering the car will reduce the suspension stroke and theoretically reduce front/rear weight transfer. Thereby reducing the amount of weight that transitions to the rear when you "get on it" early/mid-turn and in-turn making it easier to get the rear to step out.
Finally, one thing I've noticed is "getting on it" ~mid-turn~ almost never results in oversteer for me. To get power on over steer to occur, I need to accelerate through the entire turn (start to finish). Doing this, I'll need to "catch" the car near the end of a 90* turn. But then, this experience is on lowering springs and coilovers with the GST boost pill basemap on my RASB.
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