Slee256

The dealer shouldn't penalize you in any way for an aftermarket IC. That's certainly not cause for voiding of a warranty, in fact they should give you a warranty EXTENSION for getting rid of the crappy stock IC and putting on a proper aftermarket IC that actually works!

richardjh

Yep, as Bryan says, it's a base map. Revise to suit the specifics of the vehicle, conditions, etc.

The Aussie 98RON stuff has been tested quite a lot - by me. I'm in Oz, use BP Ultimate 98 religiously, and have put a bazillion hours in on it.

On a hot day, with a heat-soaked intercooler, I get quite a lot of knock.

High rpm is an area you do need to watch, as the RA turbo is tiny - it blows a heap of hot air. Knock isn't a problem if the intercooler is coping, but once it crosses that line where it no longer cools the charge, you get issues.

Higher boost makes it worse - lower boost makes it less of an issue.

Stock FMIC is bad bad bad - a larger intercooler increases headroom.


You're doing the right thing. Watch the logs, check that manifold air temp. If you see the MAT dropping throughout the WOT section, the intercooler is, well, cooling. But as soon as that MAT holds steady at WOT (or, worse, rising), you're all out of joy... the system is being driven past its limits.


Also... not all vehicles (or boost pills) are identical. Some knock more at high rpm, some less. If your boost pill hole is ever so slightly smaller than the next guy's, you'll run slightly higher boost.

The Base Map is a great starting point for a personalised tune. So good, in fact, that many people treat it as an "off the shelf" tune. To get the best possible results for any given vehicle, conditions, etc. it's there to be revised as needed.



Yep, my West Aussie dealer was totally fine with my Evo X intercooler. They even repositioned it by a couple of millimetres to improve clearance. No warranty issue. Your mileage may vary, though.


Rich

ymc182

Hi rich, just got v31 boost bill map flashed along with a K&N dropin. I've checked my boost with target boost ,its show constantly 0.5-1 psi under target boost, then I check the AFR using rax fast logging :
seams it leaner compare to the GST base map if it is accurate(I know I need a wideband), should I get the boost increase?

3RD WOT log
EvoScanDataLog_2014.01.26_15.25.13.zip

richardjh

Half to one PSI below target is probably not something I'd bother diving in to tweak, unless it's totally consistent from pull to pull, summer to winter... and I was OCD (which I am, lol).

Wastegate opened at 20.8psi, it dropped momentarily, then corrected back to 21.2psi. That's not half bad, given target is 21.9psi, and given all the possible variations/conditions at work.

If you still have the stock RA plastic air bypass valve (BOV to some), a swap to a metal Evo IX/X one could put you a bit over target.

Check it in winter too, and see what it does when those air molecules are more densely packed!


Just to be absolutely clear to all readers here, you're not checking actual AFR like this - you're just looking at the map-based fuel value lookup, pretending to be AFR.


You mean, why is that logged value leaner than the value in the High Octane Fuel Map?

Because of the "Lean Spool" mechanism. The GST Base Map keeps the original LeanSpool system enabled... it's more accurate to call it "progressive enrichment". This takes the map lookup fuel value and leans it out some, depending on some weird algorithm that starts off lean, and progressively gets richer (ie. towards the true fuel map values) the more you drive at WOT.

So you need to know sort of how LeanSpool works to make sense of it.

A lot of tunes just disable LeanSpool entirely, and go with the direct fuel map. No more variable mixtures depending on duration of thrashing the car. My own tune is now like that.

Hope that helps.

Rich

ymc182

thanks a thousand million that's really help

jthil23

I would also love to know this. I have the UR Catback with AMS boostpill. I am currently running the v31.003 map for 93 oct. boost pill. I want to get the AEM intake. Can I use the the same map or should I use the 93 oct. - boost pill - TBE - AEM?

richardjh

You shouldn't run "stock MAF housing size" style map with an AEM intake that has a different MAF housing size.

It's not a big mission, though. You simply need to make up an AEM-tweaked version of whatever map you want... or get someone else to do it.

Just copy the three "MAF Scaling" 2D maps from the GST AEM tune into whatever destination map you want. That three-part map set is the only "special" thing about the AEM tune.

Rich

MrPopular88

Hey guys,

I've got all caught up on the posts here. How do I differentiate between a loggable and unloggable wideband gauge? I'll be ordering them soon and I want to help out with getting the 2013 boost pill map working for everyone.

MrPopular88

*deleted double post*

mr2turbo18

Hi, I'm attempting to open the 2013 maps in ECUFlash, and ECUFlash comes back with a "Unknown ROM Image" error. This is for both the 91 and 93 octane 2013 maps. The ECUFlash seems to open up the other HEX files just fine. Any recommendations? I've tried downloading the v31.003 zip file twice, just in case there was an issue with the download.

bobcrusader

Sounds like you don't have the definition file. Go to GoldenEvo.com and see if they have yours.

skills

--

ExRotary

My Check Engine Light (CEL) came back on after a month's absence. Unlike last time, this time I was prepared with EvoScan 2.8 loaded alongside EvoScan 2.9 and I managed to get a clean DTC read - P0171 - System too lean, Bank 1. After a bit of research on this site I went looking for a vacuum leak and sure enough it was the No 1 suspect, the Fuel Pressure Regular hose had blown off:



Things I have now learnt should be done when installing a Boost Pill & GST Base Map:

1. Install Evoscan 2.9 to log using RAX Patch. This is vastly superior to Mode 23.
2. Install EvoScan 2.8 at the same time in order to read and clear DTC codes
3. Cable tie all your unclamped vacuum lines. Use 2.5mm (0.1") nylon ties not 3mm (1/8") or larger
4. Install a wideband AFR meter

I didn't install a wideband because I wanted to keep the car in a state where it could easily be returned to stock for warranty purposes. I see now that it is an essential piece of equipment and am going to have to figure some sort of stealth install.

I did run into an issue with high knocksums at high ambient temperatures. At that time the CEL had not appeared so I don't know if the FPR hose might have contributed to the problems then. If the hose was off at the time off then it is possible that it was running lean which won't have helped knock sum. With a bit of luck we might have a couple more hot days in the last of the southern hemisphere summer in order to re-run the pulls with tightly secured vacuum lines.

Has anyone got a rough idea how much difference dropping boost from the FPR will affect AFR ratios up high?

richardjh

I seem to remember people seeing high 12s! Which is really not good.

Glad you tracked that down.


If that were my vehicle, I'd get a new set of plugs in. If the old ones were in there in "less than ideal" WOT conditions, bin 'em as soon as possible.

Rich

Onyx1607

I had this happen to me too. It manifested itself as a rough idle. I had fully serviced the car myself, changed all fluids incl brakes, coolant, transfer case, SST etc and thought it was something I had caused or done wrong.

Car seemed to perform fine in everyday use, just couldn't keep a steady idle, and logged idle fuel trims to be +10% and beyond...

At first I thought I might have messed up the MAF by improperly cleaning/oiling my K&N panel filter; then troubleshooting moved onto fouled/end of life spark plugs... but everything checked out fine.... I couldn't believe it was something so relatively simple!