total0wnage

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys, I recently got a aem wideband, I need to get the bung welded and I was wondering if we are able to do this without removing the downpipe, and if so what where on the DP is the best location- I know your supposed to either put on the top or 3'oclock position but which one is better for avoiding any stock shielding and such.

SudzRA

iTrader: (2)

Mine is welded in about 8" before the cat housing on my HFC, not on my downpipe. I prefer having it there because the sensor is a bit further from the heat, which extends the life of the sensor, and also because it's much easier to access. It also makes things simple when welding the bung in, since you can actually just pull off the cat, have the bung welded in, then re-install the cat. I was able to save money that way, as all my tech needed to do was take the pipe and weld the bung in, instead of bringing in the car, putting it on a lift, and then welding the bung in (especially annoying since welding the bung to the dp isn't the easiest job ever due to clearance). You should be able to weld the bung into the stock cat pipe upstream of the cat housing itself. It's welded at about a 15 degree angle above horizontal, pointed towards the driver's side (this angle keeps moisture off of the sensor and helps keep the housing clear of debris). It would be at about the 10 o'clock position. I routed the wires between the rear splash shield and body, zip-tied to lines running through there.

It then passes through the grommet where the stock 02 sensor line passes (passenger side front seat area, near the firewall). If you pull back the carpeting and styrofoam under the carpet on the passenger side, you can see the grommet and wires. My boost gauge sending unit wires pass through this grommet as well. I ran the wires from there up along the firewall, then under the kick panel below the glove box, then under the stereo head unit. From there it goes past the knee airbag and to my gauge cluster.

pbassist12

iTrader: (4)

do you get different reads depending on where you install it? DP vs HFC?

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

This is the key here, as mentioned, you never want the bung facing perfectly upright or water can collect at the base of the bung and damage the sensor. I also second welding it to the test-pipe/cat-pipe for ease of access and some distance from the initial heat coming out of the combustion chamber (which isn't a huge deal, but can help slightly increase the longevity of your sensor)

There are arguments as to the specific efficiency of either setup, and which is more accurate, but the variance is so small that no self-respecting tuner would ever tune that close to the edge of safety to make that slight variation even remotely significant.

total0wnage

iTrader: (4)

so does anyone have a picture of a stock exhaust system so they can show me exactly where u mean on the "cat pipe". im going to a exhaust shop tomorrow, im friends with the owner and he quoted me roughly 50$ but he said he'd have to see if he needed to remove it or anything

nunyas

iTrader: (2)

I did a weldless bung on my down pipe...





It's a Ultimate-Racing down pipe. If I had ordered it directly from UR, I would have opted for the extra bung. I bought it from someone else that wasn't going to use it. So, I added the extra bung. It's a few inches forward of the stock O2 sensor, and positioned so that it is on top of the pipe when installed in the car.